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TR6 Quit running after a few minutes - need advice

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tr6web

tr6web

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My turn to ask for some help! 72 TR6 carb. Started up quick as usual. Ran for 3 minutes and all of a sudden it died. Thought it was flooded, but tried 10 times trying different combinations...waiting a few minutes, choke in, choke out... nothing. Turns over, battery is strong. Fuel filter is full. Oil pressure looks OK.
I did recently add the oil filter spin on adapter. Fuel line goes next to it. Could I have kinked it or loosened something?

Need tips on what to check. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Just to clarify - it was running fine *until* you added the spin on adapter?

After a few hours, does it still start and run for around 3 minutes, but then die?

Thanks.
Tom M.
 
Good question. Yes it ran fine before that. After I changed the old oil filter cannister to the spin on adapter, I started it, ran it for 10 minutes to check for leaks and all was good. That was two weeks ago. Today, it started right up but quit after about 3 minutes.
 
Thanks. Wait 'til the engine is cold (tomorrow morning?), and start it up again. See if it quits in about 3 minutes again.
 
It kind of sounds like the carbs are running out of fuel....I have a fuel shut off valve that cut;s off fuel to the carbs and if I forget to open it, the engine will run about that long before the carbs run dry.
IF the engine dies again like you've described, remove the fuel line from the front carb and bump the starter a few times looking for fuel to pulse out of the disconnected fuel line...see if fuel is at least reaching the carbs from the pump.
 
Just used the inline spark tester and there is no spark. At least I know the problem now I hope... distributor. So... should I overhaul the points or convert to electronic ignition. I know there are a lot of thoughts on the topic, but I would love to hear them. Either way, should I also get a new coil? Thinking using the Roadster Factory as I normally do.
 
I'm at a loss. I've replaced the condenser, points, cap, coil (Lucas sports), and terminal with lead. All new parts from the Roadster Factory. Still no spark (and tested with the spark tester too). I have no idea what I could be missing. Thoughts?
 
I think you said it ran fine until you changed the oil filter fitting.

Is it possible you accidentally loosened a wire running to the distributor and/or coil?
 
tr6web said:
I'm at a loss. I've replaced the condenser, points, cap, coil (Lucas sports), and terminal with lead. All new parts from the Roadster Factory. Still no spark (and tested with the spark tester too). I have no idea what I could be missing. Thoughts?
Click to expand...
You might check your ignition switch.
 
tr6web said:
I'm at a loss. I've replaced the condenser, points, cap, coil (Lucas sports), and terminal with lead. All new parts from the Roadster Factory. Still no spark (and tested with the spark tester too). I have no idea what I could be missing. Thoughts?
Click to expand...

As Elliot suggests, check the iggy switch. But you've introduced too many variables, now need to go backwards from the "no spark" at the plugs. With a test light (or better, a VOM), see if voltage is getting to the coil at the +12 side first, with the key in the run position. If 'yes' the issue is points, timing or the HT wire to the dizzy. If 'no' the problem is the wiring from there, back to the voltage supply. Is there an ignition fuse in a '72 (Been too long since I've seen one)? The switch is next. Check for voltage from the (IIRC it should be) brown wire at the switch. Voltage there means the switch is at fault. No volts and the problem is further toward the battery supply. Check to be sure the "fat" brown wire at the starter solenoid is secure. Since you've changed the oil filter, it's possible you may have inadvertently bumped or somehow loosened that. If all is good from solenoid, through the switch and out to coil, back under the hood...

With the cap off, iggy "on" and test light on the distributor side of the coil, the light should be on if points are open, off if closed (Be aware that if all that is working, the coil will "dump" high voltage to the cap as the points open, and you can get a surprise if you have body parts close to the HT lead from coil to cap!). If no light in either points condition, the voltage side of the points is shorted to ground in the dizzy. If the light stays on with points open or closed, the points are not making contact. Use some fine grit wet-or-dry sandpaper to clean both sides of the points.

If all that tests well, the HT lead to the cap is suspect first.

Hope something in all that helps.

BTW: How did you determine the engine timing after the changing of points, condenser, etc?
 
Great stuff Doc I wonder if he could hotwire the car to check his system for spark. It has been a long time since I hotwired a car, so correct me. Anyways, I believe it is done with a wire form the hot side of battery to the ignition side of the coil. That should give him spark and a bump of the starter should start it. I do not know if those cars have locking steering wheels or not, so be careful

Steve
 
sp53 said:
a wire form the hot side of battery to the ignition side of the coil. That should give him spark and a bump of the starter should start it. I do not know if those cars have locking steering wheels or not, so be careful
Click to expand...
Spot-on, Steve. A jumper wire from the brown lead terminal of the solenoid to the coil's +12V side would eliminate the iggy switch circuit, assuming +12V at the solenoid.

EDIT: And see Tybalt's comment in the earlier post about this issue. Points ground due to inadvertently mis-connecting the condenser and voltage leads. We've had the same experience with clients mixing up the connection sequence.
 
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