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Quik Q on tie-rods

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Baz

Baz

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Best method for marking the location of the tie rod ro be removed so the new one can go exactly in its place?
Books say 'mark location' OK, well there's a ton of grease, oil and other mucky stuff that sticky stuff wont stick to.
What do you all use? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbsup.gif
 
First I clean all that junk off. then I hit it with some black spray paint. When you put it back just go the the edge of the paint.
 
You're the man, Cheers Jack.
That gunk is pretty well caked on after 34 years, but that makes sense.
 
Count the turns when taking them off.
Each should be 15 full turns give or take 1/2 a turn to line it up with the arm.
If one side is 20 and the other side is 10, something is wrong.
 
Hehe, right again Frank. I made a fatal assumption that they were ok when starting the job.
 
jlaird said:
I made a fatal assumption that they were ok when starting the job.
Click to expand...
As too did I! I don't anticipate them being out, but will definately use that tip. Thanks Frank.
 
As always, Doc has the final answer.
 
This aint good.
Drivers side rettaining nut came off fine.
Passenger side, came loose then the entire ball in the tie rod is moving anticlockwise with the retaining nut as I turn the spanner.
That nut aint coming off is it?
 
Barry, have you got an impact wrench? That will usually work. Another old trick is to use a bottle jack on the bottom of the tie rod end to press the taper harder into the steering arm, and turn the nut off.
Jeff
 
Thanks Jeff, no impact wrench, but one of those in my arsenal does sound like fun. ($300 cheapest I found)
Don't have a bottle jack, but tried the floor jack, felt resistance but not enough to grasp the nut free. I'll pick up a bottle jack this evening and give that a try.
Tried grabbing the bottom part with mole grips too.
Can I use an angle grinder and just hack it off?
 
Barry, you can get a serviceble 1/2 drive impact wrench for less than $150.00. It's not like you will be using it eight hours a day.
If you have the nut loose enough that you can cut the stud off underneath, then go for it. You could also cut the nut from the stud with the angle grinder. I use a very thin wheel on one of my die grinders, and it would make short work of the job. Just one vertical cut down the centerline of the stud, through the nut, and knock the halves of the nut off with a chisel. Just try to avoid hitting the steering arm with the wheel.
Jeff
 
Barry,

I picked up a 1/2 inch impact wrench from Harbor Freight on sale for under $100 bucks.

I figure for the hour I use it a year, it should last forever. (hopefully)
 
$150 eh? Refund should be here next week anyway, I think I can go for that.
I'll try the less aggressive route first; the prospect of a newbie with an angle grinder that close to the rack, brakes and suspension would be worthy of a youtube video disaster. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crazyeyes.gif /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/nonono.gif
Besides, I think I'll need one for the B leaf springs.
 
That's alright Jeff, I kinda like it when things don't go right, gives me an excuse to holler at the forum, buy a new tool and learn something new!
 
Keep 'em handy...... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hammer.gif /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif
 
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