TR2/3/3A Questions on TR3A steering control head refresh

[TuffTR250]

Randall, that raises a question.. The back portion of my stator tube bracket (the larger diameter piece) that has the "vertical lever of the stator tube" does not turn very easily over the front part (the smaller diameter that is connected to the stator tube). Should that turn easily? Should I oil that place where the front part turns in the back stator tube part? I cleaned it in gasoline and then sprayed Brakleen into it. I've attached a picture of that mechanism. Thanks!
Bob

 

[TuffTR250]

A question concerning the turn signal cancelling ring. As can be seen in the attached pictures, on mine there is quite a divot where the cam pieces go across the raised area in the cancelling section of the ring. Would a coating of the original JB Weld or JB QwikWeld hold up for filling that divot? Is there a better alternative? Is it possible to buy a new ring, or a used one that is not worn? The numbers on mine are BS1004A and 322186 FR1. Thanks!
Bob

 

[TR3driver]

When it's bare like that, it should turn pretty easy, IMO. Not spin freely (like a bearing), but easy to turn with your hands. My feeling is that oil is apt to trap dirt and get sticky, so my preference is a dry lubricant, like Dry Moly https://www.crcindustries.com/products/dry-moly-lube-11-wt-oz-03084.html
It comes out wet, but dries very quickly to leave just a slippery dry film. One of the dry "PTFE" lubes might work too, haven't tried them.

I've never had any luck repairing things like that with JB Weld. In spite of the hype, it's actually quite soft/weak, more so than even most plastics, let alone any kind of metal. Where it shines is either mating two close fitting items together (so there's lots of surface area to bond) or in combination with a high strength filler like fiberglass cloth/mat. Maybe I'm doing something wrong.
But, I don't know what else to suggest, other than sourcing used parts from another head. Although someone must make them, I don't know of anyone selling new individual pieces. Check with Marv Gruber or one of the other folks on here selling old parts.

Might be worth trying some of that "aluminum welding rod" (which is actually a solder I believe). I'm not sure what the ring is made of, the solder may not stick or the ring may melt before the solder does. But if you're going to throw it away anyway ...

 

[TuffTR250]

Thanks Randall! I will try some of that Dry Moly since the front part turns quite a bit harder than it seems like it should.

On the repair of the ring, I was skeptical of JB Weld and your explanation further convinced me. I believe the ring is an aluminum alloy. I just now happened onto a YouTube about aluminum welding using Mapp or Propane torch. I had never heard of that. That YouTube suggested Blue Demon aluminum brazing rods. I suspect it was like an advertisement but it sure looked like it worked well. I will try for a good used ring first and if I can't find one I will try the aluminum brazing. Now I'm really curious about aluminum brazing. Thanks for all the help!!
Bob

 

[6TTR3A]

Bob,
I' dug one out of my spares box to send to you but it's a different part !

I've discovered there are many bits that vary from one to the next.
They all seem to be for a sidescreen TR & they all function but
when you take them apart there are several differences.
Frank

 

[TuffTR250]

Thanks Frank! I don't know if that one would work or not. I notice your ring is not solid all the way around, and it has a different shape for holding the vertical lever of the solar tube. I'll keep looking for a used one that matches mine so I can be fairly certain it will work with the rest of my control head. Thanks!
Bob

 

[TuffTR250]

I see that the cancelling ring pictured above by Frank appears to be quite different from mine. Does anyone know if the cancelling rings are interchangeable between what appears to be design changes to the control head over time? Thanks!
Bob

 

[sp53]

It looks to me like Franks would turn off the blinker left and right with the bump on the arm plus would hold the fixed part of the unit in the notch. I will look through my stuff, but I think they look like what Frank has shown because I remember the split thinking it was broken. Did yours work before you took it apart? How would yours hold the bottom at 6:00?

 

[TuffTR250]

Mine cancelled sporadically but mostly I had to turn off the turn signals manually. I have attached another picture of mine showing what holds it at 6:00 o'clock.
Bob



And here is what it looks like setting on the back bakelite piece

 

[CJD]

Both Triumph and aftermarket had significant internal variations over the years. They are all similar, but not interchangeable. The usual "death" of the trafficator is when the car is not driven for an extended time and the grease in the head hardens. The hardened grease then shears the plastic parts and/or the stator tube. I'm afraid there is no fixing those, they have to be replaced, and the chance of finding your particular variation of head is pretty random. The #2 cause of failure is bad aftermarket parts.

 

[TuffTR250]

Thanks for the information John. My control head seemed to clean up pretty good since I took it totally apart. At this time everything appears to be ok except the turn signal cancel. I believe that a cancel ring in good condition would make that work as well. I'm searching for a replacement cancel ring. If I am unable to find a replacement like mine I plan to aluminum braze the one I have and shape it to the original shape. A member in our local Triumph club is going to give me one of the special aluminum brazing rods. He has also done aluminum brazing in the past so I will ask him for assistance if I have any problems.
Bob

 

[sp53]

Mine are just like the one Frank shows. I am not sure of the metal type, but I think it is pot metal. I tried heating up a part to get it loose once that looked like that similar metal (that little deal on the door that is tear drop shaped) and it went up in smoke. I might try gluing a piece of something over the divot with some kind of epoxy, maybe even some hard wood because it would be easy to shape. IMO, There is not that much force in that area.

 

[TuffTR250]

Sorry for the long Thread. I'm still fiddling with my control head. I got a few parts from a club member. Wondering which of these in the picture would be the best for the turn signal lever arm? I'm fairly sure that the weaker looking spring was in the brass wheel holder which was with the spare parts. The stronger looking spring was in my control head along with the steel wheel holder. I guessing that the brass wheel holder is an earlier version. Which would be better? Thanks!
Bob

 

[TR3driver]

That light spring looks to me more like the one that goes under the contact. I think the heavier spring is for the brass wheel holder. And that's the combination I would use. (I suspect the non-brass holder is a cheap aftermarket part. All of the originals that I have seen are brass.)

 

[TuffTR250]

Thanks Randall. I agree that the light spring does look like the one that goes under the contact. Now that I've messed with it some more I think the light spring is too weak to work correctly with the turn signal lever. I think the non-brass holder may be a later cost reduction by Triumph since it was in my control head when I took it apart, and I don't think it has been rebuilt. I think I will use the brass one since it was probably the original design and maybe changed only for cost reduction.
Bob