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TR2/3/3A Questions about that rocker cover I "won" on E bay

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bnw

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Got the new TR3 rocker cover today to replace the TR4 cover I have. The filler tube diameter on the 3 is bigger than the tube on the 4 so I can't use my cap unless I grind down the tube. New TR3: 1.519 in, old TR4: 1.478. Are the caps model specific? Also, the new cover has been re chromed. It's a good job, but I have some peeling chrome on the inside of the cover. I've removed most of the peeling with a scotch brite pad and I'd like to seal the inside with some hi temp engine rattle can clear because I don't like the idea of it flaking off into the oil flow. Anyone see any future problems here?
 
Good idea with the scotchbrite pad. I don't know how well a clear would hold up inside the cover with the heat and oil. I would either abrade/clean off the chrome as much as possible and leave it alone, or maybe try something meant for the inside of motors, like glyptol(sp?) that they paint the inside of blocks with.
 
Might be to much chrome on the cover, plated it to many times. Might not have removed the old chrome before re-plating.
 
[QUOTE :Might be to much chrome on the cover, plated it too many times.]


That sounds like a logical solution. The inside flaking is probably due to limited prep before plating. So, can I grind the plating off the top inch and a half or so without causing the rest of the plating on the filler tube to start peeling? I've waited a long time to find a high quality rocker cover and I'd hate to ruin this one and have to throw it on the pile with the other two I've "won" over the years.
 
It would be a good idea to scribe a line around the tube an inch down or so. This way you could control how much chrome comes off. You don't want it to peal down to far.
 
I had the same problem with a rechromed valve cover last spring. I took a piece of exhaust pipe that would fit over the filler neck and got a hole saw that would cut the exact outside diameter of the exhaust pipe. I then prepared, drilled and hole sawed a sheet metal plate that matched the bottom plate of the breather cap, but with the center hole the diameter of the outside of the piece of exhaust pipe. I put the exhaust pipe into the oversized center hole of the new bottom plate and cut the length so that when the new plate was mated to the old plate the top of the pipe would be relieved from the top of the breather. I clamped the breather in a jig on a drill press and used the hole saw to "core" the breather, removing the tube and part of the bottom plate of the breather. I welded the exhaust pipe to the new bottom plate, inserted the result into the breather, riveted the pieces together thru the bottom plate, painted, and voila. Tedious, yes, but less so than grinding .030 of chrome with 1500 grit paper.
Bob
 
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