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Questions about stator tube and trafficator fixation

I have a question on how far the stator tube extends beyond the compression nut on an adjustable steering column. I just replaced my steering wheel and rebuilt the trafficator. I think I pulled the stator tube toward the steering wheel (but not all the way to the nut) when I pulled the upper stator tube out. Once I figured out there was a compression nut to loosen that makes everything actually move, I got everything back together and working well. The only thing is the stator tube probably sticks out about 2" / 50mm from the nut. Is that normal? It seems right, but I didn't get a look at the compression nut end of the tube before I took it apart.

FWIW - mine's always been 1/4" in front of the nut. Bob's solution sounds great. After that's done, maybe pull the stator tube forward 1/16" so the sliding tube seats just above the bottom of the slot.

I have mine out due to messing up my steering (long story - more later) and discovered the tube is cracked radially from the bottom of the milled slot and about to break in half. When I get my new tube, will drill or file the slot with a rounded bottom to prevent this in the future.
 
cpbol

Sorry for not getting back sooner - there is a good inch projection on mine - that is not to say it is correct, I am not sure what the correct length should be. Many years ago I had to replace the whole thing, including indicator and horn push. From memory I had the steering wheel set up so that it was up against the dash as far as it could go then I loaded in the stator and the control head. I think that I fixed a pull wire to the horn/indicator wires to pull them through the steering tube, and pushed the stator down from the top in consecutive movements if that makes sense. So I ended up with the projection that I have.

:cheers:

Bob
 
... I have mine out due to messing up my steering (long story - more later) and discovered the tube is cracked radially from the bottom of the milled slot and about to break in half. When I get my new tube, will drill or file the slot with a rounded bottom to prevent this in the future.

Yeah, that's pretty common, and likely caused when the trafficator rubs against the hub and tries to turn with the wheel. That slot should come radiused at the bottom, but isn't, so your plan is a good one (plus, you need clearance between the trafficator and the hub so the stator isn't twisted when you turn).
 
Yeah, that's pretty common, and likely caused when the trafficator rubs against the hub and tries to turn with the wheel. That slot should come radiused at the bottom, but isn't, so your plan is a good one (plus, you need clearance between the trafficator and the hub so the stator isn't twisted when you turn).

The slot on my new stator tube turned out to be rounded.
Here is the projection with the steering wheel in the forwardmost position and the trafficator head fully seated:

screenshot.1180.jpg
 
It's a good thing you are using corn head grease with that new split olive.

I dunno, it might be the original Healey olive. Never leaked previous penrite either. It may tighten up when the nut's tightened in place.

PS - how do we know they don't come that way?
 
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Mine, what I think was original wasn’t that way and the one I have now, bought 20 years ago isn’t. I heard from a guy in Texas that the split ones leak.
 
Here's why I think the split is real and doesn't leak - when you tighten the nut, it compresses the split together and clamps it to the stator tube - ergo no leak.

That's what I always assumed/figured. While we're OT, my box is leaking a little more than usual. No time, or interest, in tearing into it before taking a long road trip; can I add Penrite, or should I drain the gear oil out first?
 
That's what I always assumed/figured. While we're OT, my box is leaking a little more than usual. No time, or interest, in tearing into it before taking a long road trip; can I add Penrite, or should I drain the gear oil out first?

I'd say just add the Penrite.
 
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