• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Questions about intake manifold change

Share this page

ahpook

ahpook

Member
Offline
Now that I'm getting my first weber for my 1500. is there anything special I should know about removing the intake, and I assume, the exhaust, manifolds? I've heard it's kind of a tricky thing to do, so any help would be appreciated..Seems the bottom nuts are the hard ones to get at?
Thanks in advance
George
 
Hi George, I'm about to do this on my 1500 - going to a Cannon / DGV. Depending on how soon I get to it, I may be able to post pictures... likewise, if you get to it first and have pix / comments to share, I'm sure they'd be useful to me & others.

-DC
 
I know it helps if you replace those long nuts on the bottom of the intake with shorter ones. Those long nuts will drive you crazy and make getting them tight a real pain.

Also, check to be sure the intake manifold sets flush and is not sitting on the exhaust manifold. For some reason when I swapped from a side exhaust/stromberg carb to a downdraft weber, the downdraft intake sat on the edges of the exhaust and therefore had a small gap. It wasn't visible but it gave me fits trying to figure out why I couldn't get the weber carb adjusted. (Duh /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crazyeyes.gif sucking air in at the bottom of the intake didn't help do ya think?)
 
Get you one of them fancy rachet wrenches. You'll need a 9/16. That will make removing and installing the two nuts under the intake a lot easier.

Also, buy yourself a can of PB Blaster and start soaking everything about a week before you are ready to remove. If you have never pulled your manifold(s) before, expect the studs to come out. You may want to go ahead and order yourself some new ones because the nuts are probably rusted to them.
 
terriphill said:
I know it helps if you replace those long nuts on the bottom of the intake with shorter ones. Those long nuts will drive you crazy and make getting them tight a real pain.
Click to expand...

How much shorter?
 
That's right--intake first. It will be a pretty common sense kind of job. Morris is right about the ratchet wrench. Shoot, if I were you, I would buy a whole set. They are one of the greatest tools since the robogrip.
 
JPSmit said:
terriphill said:
I know it helps if you replace those long nuts on the bottom of the intake with shorter ones. Those long nuts will drive you crazy and make getting them tight a real pain.
Click to expand...

How much shorter?
Click to expand...

Follow up question - still trying to understand how much shorter those bolts need to be? Does installing the manifods with the engine out make a difference?


thanks
 
Not bolts, JP. They're deep nuts. Long and difficult to get started due to the tight working space. Standard nuts will replace them and be much easier to get onto the studs.
 
Got it - thanks (note to self, next time read post) /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
Since I had another 1500 motor just lying around, I used the shorter nuts from it. Standard size. It really made a difference for me.
 
Sealer on a gasket touching the head?????????????

Bad idea me thinks.
 
racingenglishcars said:
I didn't see anyone mention the dreaded "Vacuum Leak Monster". Watch out for him. He turns a simple adjustment procedure into a nightmare. Use some sealer on the gasket to the head.
Click to expand...

Hijacking the conversation some - sorry (but not too :G) Tomorrow I hope is assembly day for the engine. Now I can't find the link to someone's description of an "oiltight" engine. I went out and bought somePermatex Red Gasket maker to use as sealer. Where do I use it (as gasket sealer) and where not?

TIA

JP
 
Back
Top