Question re: master cylinder and pedal box

[Branson]

Any one know the inside clear dimension of the pedal box on a '65 sprite? I'd measure myself but the pedal box is at home and I am at work.

I am looking at using a pair of wilwood master cylinders (260-3376 remote reservoir, 7/8" bore 1.2" stroke)to replace my original master cylinder.

Anyone tried this?

 

[racingenglishcars]

I guess you don't want to do this.
If it's the same as the BE, mine measures 60mm, My mkIV box measures 130mm.

 

[Branson]

The thought was to slightly modify the existing pedal box to accept the new master cylinders...minimal fabrication on my part and would still adhere to my theme of bolt in modifications in that if someone wanted to go back to the original MC setup they could bolt it back into the modified pedal box or replace the pedal box entirely with an original one. no modifications to the foot box would be required.

potentially this could be less expensive than replacing the original MC and maybe even less expensive than having the MC re-sleeved.

Im guessing the MKIII sprite pedal box would be the same as the bugeye 60mm is a little more than 2 1/4" inch....

 

[bugimike]

This thread raises the interesting subject of flairs. I am sure someone on this forum will have the definative answers.
As I understand it there are basically three different types of flairs: a. the basic flairing of the line, b.the double flair and c. the bubble flair (basically what seems to be an unfinished double flair.

Which would be the preferred and what are the advantages/drawbacks of each type?

(pardon the crudeness of the spur-of-the-moment illustration below!)

 

[Branson]

Hijack!!

but seeing how I don't know the answer either I guess I will let it slide /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

 

[bugimike]

Sorry Donns attachment raised the question. No hijack intended! I agree with you by the way as far as how extensive a modification from original one should go. Chopping for a later model unit has always seemed drastic to me while the picture you posted seems like an elegant solution!!

 

[Branson]

I agree. I considered going to a later model MC/ Pedal box set up but I didnt want to cut into the footbox for various reasons. I checked around and couldnt find a setup that dropped into the existing pedal box opening until I stumbled across a british website that had that setup. The conversion doesnt look all that complex and by using a MC that allows you to mount through the sides of the pedal box (like the original MC instead of the front mounted to a welded in plate like in the photo) im thinking that you could drill a couple of holes in the pedal box to line up with the new MC and use some spacers to center the MC's on the pedals and then mount the remote reservoirs to the firewall.

surely im making this too easy right?

 

[PeterC]

This thread raises the interesting subject of flairs. I am sure someone on this forum will have the definative answers.
As I understand it there are basically three different types of flairs: a. the basic flairing of the line, b.the double flair and c. the bubble flair (basically what seems to be an unfinished double flair.

Which would be the preferred and what are the advantages/drawbacks of each type?

(pardon the crudeness of the spur-of-the-moment illustration below!)

a is no good for anything. b and c are in common use, but they depend on the hole, as that is the seat for the flares. As a VERY general rule, British cars used the single flare, c. US cars used b. German cars used c (with metric threads) Japanese used b with metric threads. This does not hold for everything. You must know what's at the bottom of the hole.

Peter C.

 

[racingenglishcars]

Well, it really was a minimal cut. Reversability would require minor welding (as if I haven't done any welding on the car already)

 

[DrEntropy]

a is no good for anything

FWIW, Peter, that struck me as hilarious. And oh-so TRUE. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbsup.gif

 

[Bugeye58]

"A" requires the use of a sleeve behind the flare on the tubing. As such, it was the aircraft standard for years, in the 37º configuration.

"B" is the normal double flare. The doubling over of the tubing at the flare reinforces itself, eliminating the backup sleeve. It's much less prone to cracking than the single flare.

"C" is the ISO or "bubble flare" we all know and love. Cheap and easy to produce, as it requires a simple angled seat in the female fitting, which is a basic operation to mass produce. The flare on the line can be done in a single shot, making it economical. It's major drawback is that each time the fitting is tightened, the bubble deforms slightly. Eventually it will lose its sealing capabilities, and will have to be reflared or replaced.
Jeff

 

[JohnDough]

I found that flare B requires you to reallly tighten teh nut else you get a leak, unless you have the 2/3/4 way distribution block that has a little knob at the bottem that seals them.

On the pedalbox, if you make a box for that will fit the original bugeye gap you can call it almost a authentic healey disk brake conversion (healey used teh original spindeles and other brackets but let's not argue) as donald healey used the layout for the disk conversion on early cars - same as the sprinzel sprites. the single 3/4 m/c are freely available and cheap , even here is SA. and if you nifty you can actually space the clutch and brake pedal to your requirements ( wider apart or more left . however it also looks like you might have to lengthen the pedal a little bit on top to get the pin point closer to the middel line of the mc's.

yu also have a multiple of options:
1 cut teh excisting pedalbox in half, you can mayeb decide if you want to widen teh pedal space or move them and this will effect your choice. you can then use a piec of flat bar to and use the top and bottom holes as an option to keep the two halves pretty straight. you tehn need to trim teh sides and redrill teh side holes. you'll have to get a longer bolt for teh pedal and will only be able to fit the pedal bolt once teh box is in place in teh car.

or you can fabricate from scratch. start by createing angle 20x20 piece from 1.6 or 1.8mm which will form the sides drill the hoels and get them straight. you tehn make teh bucket and will actually weld these angles to the bucket.the bucket plate will start from the 2 bottem holes right to the top holes and if you fold it , it's less welding to do. the angles will be welded to the side of teh bucket. next step bent and drill the piece that will keep the mc/s in place and cut the pedel slot and make a pedal bolt bracket.

or get a sleeved mc