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Question-paint

jlaird

Great Pumpkin
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How long does paint and clearcoat need to dry before it is really dry? I know Tony says a year, however.......... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
Heck, I'll let one set 4 or 5 years before doing anything to it after paint - but that's probably just because I'm slow!
 
Not slow Tony, but you've got so many projects to choose from! Harder for the rest of us to be that patient, with only 1 car to love...
 
Factory paint is good to go right off the lot.

There's isn't really a hard and fast rule for respray paint because there are too many different paint formulations and too many variables that affect cure time. Check for your coating manufacturer's recommendations (don't trust the painter's opinion!). I've heard 90 days is recommended by most manufacturers.


PC.
 
Jack:

Will Agatha come back with a tan?

Rather, are they baking on the paint?

Patrick
 
Noop, he has no bakeing capability that I saw. But she will be modistly covered, hehe.
 
Good I was concerned about tan lines.

I would guess at least a month.
 
Ahh, guess that will have to do then. Kinda slows things down though.
 
I gotta guess they give you the car after it is painted its good to handle carefully but you're not supposed to wash or wax for some time.
 
wash with cool water in the shade for first 30 days. No wax for about 6 months. It should be fine

Carl
 
The answer to this question depends a lot on what you've painted with and what you are asking about doing. The real answer is that you need to check with the paint manufacturer and/or read their spec sheets.

If you are spraying a base-coat/clear-coat system or two component urethane with hardener, it's not at all unusual to wet sand and buff 24 hours after the top coat is applied. As mentioned, wax and other coatings applied over that are generally postponed (and aren't necessary) for months. If you were applying lacquer, the wet sanding and buffing may start on the same day because the solvent flashes and evaporates so quickly. As with urethanes, waxing would be put off for quite a while. From memory, acrylic enamels require the longest delay before you work on them.
 
Miss Agatha is haveing a base-coat/clear-coat system applied. Don't think she will need wax for ever. I am more concerned with putting her together.
 
Jack:

That is my concern as well, because when assembling her you will most likely get a couple of chips. If waiting for the coats to be fully cured will minimize them then that is another story.

I will stop by my friends bodyshop today or tomorrow and get a opinion from them. He does bake em, but I will ask about unbaked. You can use this information for a comparative.

Patrick
 
Good deal Pat, I will be most intrested in what you find.
 
Jack:

I stopped by today and the "previous" owner my friend said to wait at least 1 week, so I would wait two to play it safe. Let me know what your painter tells you, because I am curious.

The previous owner/a friend of mine sold his shop. The new owner has no idea what an AH is. This is no big surprise. The good news is that his wife works with me, small world.

I guess that I will throw him a small job and see how it goes. It is very hard to find a good shop here.

Patrick
 
Seems difficult to find a good shop anywhere Pat. That's why I went to North Alabama, about 7 hours away towing.
 
I know Jack, they all just want to do collision. I will try this guy since he has the heated spray booth, so he can bake the paint on.

I have found on my newer cars that the paint scratches very easily, something to with EPA requlations.
 
As a finish cures it outgasses and hardens progressively, quicker at first but approaching its final hardness over an extended period. As an example Dupont says that you can handle/assemble panels coated with their ChromaSystem 1780S clearcoat after 6 hours-overnight (air dried) but you shouldn't use wax for 120 days (air dried or baked).

Wait time to minimize chips, scratches and dings isn't something you can pin down precisely because incidents that chip, scratch and ding aren't precise, repeatable or predictable.

Whatever time you choose to wait it's always prudent to do whatever you can to avoid damage. If you want to cover some area while you're working close to it don't use just any old rag or drop cloth, they're abrasive. Try to use a clean towel that's soft enough to use for polishing, like microfiber or 100% cotton terry. If you mask off any areas use only low tack painter's tape and don't leave it on the panel longer than recommended. If you do use tape remove it by carefully peeling it back on itself, don't just pull it straight up.

To remove light dust, fingerprints and smudges you can use a fresh paint safe detailing spray like Meguiar's #34 Final Inspection and a microfiber towel (wipe gently, don't rub). For heavier accumulations of dirt it's best to use a fresh paint safe soap like Meguiar's #00 Hi-Tech Wash.


PC. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
Looks like I am going to be a Meguiar's customer.

Yep planed on covering as best I can as I get started.
 
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