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TR2/3/3A Question on TR3A aftermarket side curtains

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TuffTR250

Jedi Warrior
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I am replacing the rubber seals in my aftermarket side curtains on my TR3A. The side curtains were old and in the boot of the car when I got it. I got the new rubber seals from Clarke Spares and he says to trim the rubber to make the side curtain fit. The problem I have is that when I snap the bottom vinyl in place using the tonneau Lift-the-Dot connectors on the doors and other snaps, the side curtain front edge ends up not sloped the same as the windscreen. I really don't want to alter the bottom vinyl piece, but is there any other thing I can do to get the front of the side screens to match the slope of the windscreen? I guess the other option is along the front of the side curtain is to trim the rubber way back at the top and hardly any at all on the bottom to make that match the slope of the windscreen, but that won't look very good. Any ideas? see atached picture.
IMG_5603.jpg
Thanks!
Regards,
Bob
 
Bob - I vaguely remember a thread here, discussing this. Seemed to imply the TR3A/B side curtains do NOT use the bottom snaps. This is shown on page 51 of Piggott's Original TR2/3/3A book.

Edit: here's an illustration from Moss:

259-218_1.jpg


Tom
 
Thanks Tom! I have a book by Graham Robson with pictures of early TR3's that show the side curtains attached at the bottom to the 4 Lift-the-Dot connectors on the door. Not sure what holds the Moss side curtains down since they don't appear to be snaped at the bottom, unless maybe the bottom piece is a stiff piece of metal or fiber board. My Amco aftermarket ones have soft vinyl on the bottom.
Regards,
Bob
 
The early curtains have flexible bottoms, so they must be snapped to keep them from flapping. The later curtains have a rigid lower frame, with only a single snap that doesn't use the lift a dot studs.

If yours are aftermarket, they could be either style. One thing to note, the lift a dots are installed by hand, so no two cars have the exact same spacing pattern. Once a curtain is fit to a car, it is unique to THAT car. So, your curtains may have been fit to a different car and transplanted to yours...
 
Yes, it is likely that the side curtains I have were not originally made to fit my car. I've had to do a lot of fixing and changing to the door mounts, and bending of the "stand" aluminum pieces. But I'm wanting to make do with them since my TR3 will be just a kinda ratty driver. Does anyone have picture(s) of the Amco aftermarket side curtains installed on their TR3 with the top up so I could see how they are supposed to be when mounted correctly? I'd like to see how the front matches the slope of the windscreen, and also how they should fit along the top where the side curtain meets the flap on the soft top. As I have them right now, the metal along the top is even with the bottom of the soft top flap. (see the attached picture). Is this correct?

Another question is how are the side curtains supposed to fit under the flap on the soft top? When you get into the car, do you have to reach out through the window and tuck the top of the side curtain under the soft top flap? As can barely be seen in the attached picture, the flap on my soft top is even with the bottom of the inside of the soft top, so from what I can see the only way to get the side curtain under the soft top flap is to specifically tuck it under by hand.
Thanks for the help!
Regards,
Bob
IMG_5604.jpg
 
Bob, I remember having to install these in the mostly Triumph garage I worked for eons ago. And distinctly remember the angles were always off slightly. There were a number available from Amco, Haan, even JC Whitney. All constructed more or less the same. All aluminum and the sliding window frames were always made about an inch smaller in all directions than the original steel ones to allow the installer to center them based on the fitment of the original. Then after centering and measuring 3 times came the worst part, having to cut the **** seals to fit right upon closing the door. Hopefully your window angle is not off from previous owners and passengers yanking on the windshield. Some adjustment can be effected by loosening the dzus locking plates on the doors. Removing the two fixed screws and loosening the slotted ones and moving one way or the other. Obviously this would leave an impression showing in the vinyl, but if its just a driver. The process leaves about half or less of the seals width as provided. All I can suggest on the flaps is have some new vinyl sewn in and put in new fasteners.
 
Thanks TRTEL! I just put in new seals and I agree with what you say about the seals. I have not cut them yet since I'm still mulling over the various adjustments I've made, which as you say, none are really ideal, and I'm very concerned about cutting the seals and then finding out I should have tried a different adjustment. :smile: I have not tried making the windshield more upright to make it better match the angle of the side curtain since my soft top is already very tight. I think if I made the windshield more upright the soft top would not fit at all.

A question, the bottom flap on my side curtains have female snaps up the back that snap onto 3 male snaps that are screwed into the quarter rail capping behind the door. How could you possibly snap those in place from inside the car, and then how would you get them unsnapped to get out of the car. The side curtain sliding back window leaves a very small opening when pushed forward. Were these original to the after market side curtains or was this just a PO's idea? Thanks!
Regards,
Bob
 
Strictly the PO's idea of trying to eliminate drafts. Maybe a contortionist. You're probably better off not fooling with windshield and just go for the best spacing by eye.
 
Thanks Tom for the info on the back snaps. Again yesterday I was tweaking the bends on the aluminum stand pieces and trying to get things to fit better before I cut down the rubber seals. I agree that I'm just going to have to go with the best fit I can get out of these old side curtains. Once I get the top frame situated as best I can, I will move the Lift-the-Dot connectors so the bottom vinyl hangs flatter against the door. I'll just plug the old holes that are left with some black sealant that will dry and not stay sticky.
Regards,
Bob
 
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