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Question on tools and spare parts for lonng distance drive

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Bob_Spidell said:
Hmmmmm ... what would 'fry' a Pertronix? It's known that leaving the ignition switch on with the engine not running can cause a Pertronix to overheat and burn the power transistor (at least on the models used in Healeys; later types have protection against this). The only things I can think of are 1) a serious overvoltage event (stuck points in the regulator, maybe) or 2) a dead short downstream of the Pertronix. In either of these cases, putting points in ain't gonna fix the problem (for long).
Click to expand...

I've experienced two instances: I had a coil go out - it developed an internal short that fried the pertronix. I verified this possibility with Pertronix' tech support. Also fumble-fingered troubleshooting. A friend and I fried one when his car died (bad gold coil) and we were troubleshooting it by the side of the road. Luckily he had old coil, points & condenser in his tool kit which got us home. Pertronix tech told me bubbles on the label show the unit has overheated - i.e. 'fried'.
 
A hard short between the primary and secondary of the coil [not common]

However,would look just like keeping the key on engine off and probably would incur over heating
 
steveg said:
I've experienced two instances: I had a coil go out - it developed an internal short that fried the pertronix. I verified this possibility with Pertronix' tech support. Also fumble-fingered troubleshooting. A friend and I fried one when his car died (bad gold coil) and we were troubleshooting it by the side of the road. Luckily he had old coil, points & condenser in his tool kit which got us home. Pertronix tech told me bubbles on the label show the unit has overheated - i.e. 'fried'.
Click to expand...

Sounds like swapping the coil and installing a spare Pertronix would have worked just as well. My spare Pertonix is pre-wired with spade lugs for an easy swap--timing would be a SWAG, with points or Pertronix, as I don't carry a timing light--whereas installing points and condenser would be a PITA on the side of the road as the wiring is different (FWIW, I carry a points set as well).
 
Most older coils were oil filled. The early Lucas tower coils were oil filled and leaked they were always "pre-flight"-- Fixed :highly_amused:

We repaired the leak by cleaning the joint between the can and the insulator with acetone .
Then sealed the joint with industrial cyanoacrylate adhesive.
Worked a treat

Modern coils are available with an insulation that falls more into the epoxy category.:

Differnt folks different strokes
 
Hi All,

As it is turning out this year with all the heat and rain storms, I would suggest you bring a large tarp or tent and a can of Sterno and beans (or something of your taste to heat) just in case you are stranded on the road.

Stay cool and dry,
Ray(64BJ8P1)
 
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Bob_Spidell said:
Sounds like swapping the coil and installing a spare Pertronix would have worked just as well. My spare Pertonix is pre-wired with spade lugs for an easy swap--timing would be a SWAG, with points or Pertronix, as I don't carry a timing light--whereas installing points and condenser would be a PITA on the side of the road as the wiring is different (FWIW, I carry a points set as well).
Click to expand...

Yeah, but I blew through another $90 pertronix before I solved the problem -- my point is they are too fragile for troubleshooting.
 
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