• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Question on toe in and cross rod assembly

Share this page

bighealeysource

bighealeysource

Luke Skywalker
Country flag
Offline
Hey all,
Just adjusted the toe in on my BN2, and after getting it set within the required parameters, wondering about how much of the threaded end on the drivers side is exposed. By that, after loosening the locking nuts and turning the cross rod to get the proper toe in, I have 5/8 inch of threads exposed on drivers and 1/4 inch of threads exposed on the passenger side. Believe the only way to equal that out would be to take entire assembly off and put the tie rod ends back on and start over and really do not want to get into that. Not sure how much thread is on the cross rod and do not want this to be a weak point with steering control ! Thoughts or suggestions ?
Thanks,
Mike
 
Usually comes out pretty much ballanced on each side . Next timeMIKE- :laugh:
 
I have been through the same thing on my Bj8, Mike, You are going to have to pop out the cross rod again, Make sure the steering wheel is straight and the front wheels are square with the rear wheels, Then turn both left and right ball joints out from bottom equal amounts until the cross rod lines up on both levers! This way you will have plenty of thread in each ball joint and somewhat equal adjustment on both left and right sides. This worked for me! Maybe someone in this forum has a better way! I do know one thing, The steering gear and suspension systems on Healey's are prehistoric, The rack and pinion with IRS rear suspension on my Triumph TR6 is a much Better design. Its a shame Austin Healey did not have the same setup! Those lever shocks are another sore spot as well. Let me know how things work out!
 
bighealeysource said:
Hey all,
... Thoughts or suggestions ?
Thanks,
Mike
Click to expand...

Leave it as is (unless you've run out of things to do on your car). The next time you have your front suspension apart--to change tie-rod boots, for instance--you can even them out (but you'll have to set toe again). If the steering wheel is centered--another topic--and the toe is set you're fine; the only issue would be if you needed more than another half-inch (1/4" + 1/4") of toe-in.
 
If you leave things as is, keep a close eye on your front tires. If the toe-in is not correct, you will begin to wear either the outside of the tire (too much toe-in) or the inside (too much toe-out). This is true even if the car doesn't pull one way or the other.
I believe it is a good idea to have an alignment check whenever the tie rod ends are replaced (or disturbed). If your local tire shop can't check the toe-in, you can make your own alignment tool. I have photos of the tool, but I'm trying to track down where they came from. The toe-in should be zero for radial tires.

I replaced the steering rack boots on my MG Midget a few months ago, which required disconnecting the tie rod ends (I replaced one of them). I was very careful to keep everything in the same position, but now I'm hearing squeaking of the front tires on the concrete as I roll the car in and out of my garage. That suggests the tires are not in correct alignment in spite of my care.
 
Back
Top