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Question of the day-points

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jlaird

jlaird

Great Pumpkin
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Today for the second time, about 500 miles apart my points worked mostly closed. Of course this plays heck with the top end.

Now, how do I keep that screw from allowing the points base plate to slip and close the points?

I guess a bit of permatex blue might help along with a new lock washer.

Any other ideas, I am surely willing to consider any option anyone has.
 
Electronic ignition module is the best solution. But, if you insist in remaining with points, I would not hesitate using blue threadlock if you are sure that the screw is working loose. Make sure you clean the threads, both internal and external before you apply the Locktite to make sure it does it's job.

I recall in the late '60's I was driving from the west coast back to North Dakota when the engine quit. We found that the points were not opening and the reason was because the rotation advance mechanism had worn excessively and shifted off center, causing the points to close. We were able to bend the sheet metal bearing enough to get by, but had to stop every couple hundred mile and do it again. We stopped in every major city along the way trying to find parts, but didn't have any luck until reaching Rapid City, SD.

I'll never use mechanical points again as long as there's an option. Electronic ignition completely removes all the sideload forces caused by the cam and spring in a points type ignition as well as providing a much hotter spark and more uniform ignition timing. Not to mention better reliability.
 
:iagree:
Jack,
Since you are reluctant to join those of us who feel points are pointless. :laugh: How about those screws with the slanted searations under the head or one of these washer's
I have also seen some screws that have a tiny oring around the head.
 

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texas_bugeye said:
:iagree:
Jack,
Since you are reluctant to join those of us who feel points are pointless. :laugh: How about those screws with the slanted searations under the head or one of these washer's
I have also seen some screws that have a tiny oring around the head.
Click to expand...

Lockwasher.

Tell us pointed sorts more about pointless ignitions. What's involved in installation?
 
Those are starr lock washers and just may be the solution.

Will pull the dizzy tomorrow and see what I can do.

Oh yea, forgot to say, the Dizzy is good, now bearing wear and all is free, etc.
 
Jack, did the points really move to the closed position or are you seeing wear on the heel (rubbing) block?
 
Oh, now I am not sure. It is not out yet. Had not thought of that.

I do have a whole new set of inards from Jeff that I am going to install though.

I do not see any junk in the dizzy, like stuff that wore off.

No clue really. Yet.
 
Dizzy out. Scraper not worn.

Lock washer under screw was so old it was flat, did not provide any pressure on screw to hold/lock it tight.

Going to install all new inards that I got from Jeff.
 
+1 with Doug. The straw that broke the camel's back for me was when I put in a second new set of points and neither set lasted the 500 miles you are talking about, only I found to be that the red rubbing block had worn the snout down in each case. That was even having used the lube and everything done by the book. I know we've had the discussion elsewhere on this forum about the lack of craftsmanship in these new parts. I finally threw in the towel and got the Pertronix Flame-Thrower II complete diz. Of course, I'm saying 'ta-heck with pointless, I'm going distributorless! (But still working out the details there)

JACK
 
Just ordered an additional set of Jeffs replacement points, they are built right.

Also got a timeing pointer and tape for instalation when I have the engine out after the weather brakes in Oct.

I think replaceing the lock washer with one that works will really solve my prob. We will see but I feel confident.
 
Woops, the screw points retaining, requires a flat washer and a lock washer. Pounds head on desk. I knew that now why did I not do it. The flat washer bridges the slot in the points plate so the lock washer has a nice flat surface to mate with both top and bottom. Gesh, if you use the right parts it can not move.

Note to self, think stupid.
 
Oh, tested, gesh, engine runs better, idles nicely, etc, etc. Will take it out on the road soonish.

Not a bad job at all, nice to find a real something wrong not just an I think it might have been.

For the lack of a nail er washer........................
 
I'll do better than a hint. I'm going to a 36-1 crank trigger and I'll be running either a two channel Ford EDIS (Electronic Distributorless Ignition System) or I'm starting to look into the possibility of running a four channel COPS (Coil On Plug System). This is currently being mocked up/setup on my engine rebuild/swap project. Here's a pic.
 

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Here's a pic of the sensor bracket
 

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Jack, that pointer and timing tape, how are you going to install it? Do you have a balancer on your 948? I was thinking about having hap put one on my engine when he rebuilds it, so I dont have to crawl on the floor to timing light it.
 
I intend to mount the pointer as shown.

Then I will grind a nice v slot in the pully at the appropiate spot, like 0 degrees, and 5 degrees advance. I will then put a bit of white or yellow paint in the v slot. The larger V slot being 0 degrees.

No more leaning under the car to adjust the timeing.
 
Re: Points closing up - make sure you put a little bit of distributor cam lube on the leading edge of the rubbing block. In the old days various manufacturers used to supply this in a little capsule with every points set (of course, not Lucas). I've got an ancient tube of Bosch distributor lube I've had in the tool box for 40 years -
 
Check with a NAPA store for the specific part number for 23/25D points. Standard use good materials, "StanPart" # LU-"XXX". They last.
 
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