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TR2/3/3A Question about size of Clutch Alignment Tool

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2billydavies

2billydavies

Senior Member
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Hi everyone... me again.
So I got my package with all my new parts yesterday from Moss. Almost ready to put the engine back in.
One thing.... I ordered a clutch alignment tool from them and they either forgot to put it in the box, didn't see that I ordered it for some reason online, or I simply thought I ordered it but really didn't and I'm just trying to blameshift for my screw up (more than likely, it's the last one.)

In any case... does anyone know what size the clutch alignment tools are? I was thinking maybe they have one in the size I need at the local auto parts stores around me (probably not.... and if they do, it would be the first time ever that I found something locally for my car). Anyone know what size they are? I guess I need the teeth size. Not sure how standard they were back in the day.

thanks a ton! Any suggestions on getting around the use of one of these would be appreciated... if that's even possible.
~ Billy
 
In a pinch, I've skipped the alignment tool and just used my finger. Feel the gap between the bore through the clutch plate and the hole in the flywheel. If the gap is the same all the way around, the plate is aligned. Install the bolts just finger-tight at first, so you can tap the plate around until it's lined up; then tighten the bolts and recheck.

BTW, the tool I got from Moss years ago was so badly undersize as to be useless. I use an old input shaft instead.

The minor diameter of the hole through the friction plate is 1" nominal, but I don't recall the pilot bearing diameter offhand. `10 splines, major diameter is 1.25" nominal. (The shaft & tool are roughly .005" undersize, to allow easy movement.)
 
TR3driver said:
In a pinch, I've skipped the alignment tool and just used my finger. Feel the gap between the bore through the clutch plate and the hole in the flywheel. If the gap is the same all the way around, the plate is aligned. Install the bolts just finger-tight at first, so you can tap the plate around until it's lined up; then tighten the bolts and recheck.

BTW, the tool I got from Moss years ago was so badly undersize as to be useless. I use an old input shaft instead.

The minor diameter of the hole through the friction plate is 1" nominal, but I don't recall the pilot bearing diameter offhand. `10 splines, major diameter is 1.25" nominal. (The shaft & tool are roughly .005" undersize, to allow easy movement.)
Click to expand...

Pilot bush is 1/2". Also second the old input shaft but not everyone has one. I've used the finger approach too but found it quite tedious. Perhaps just don't have the right touch.
Tom
 
Local parts store should have a generic clutch alignment tool that can rented or loaned out. The plastic ones that Moss and others have will work but the old input shaft is best.

marv
 
PM me if you run into trouble...I'll send you the best pilot, an old input shaft.
 
I agree with Randall about his use of the (my term) 'Houniak Method' of using one's finger to get clutch alignment right.
I was out in the garage the other day and noticed my old 'clutch alignment tool'.....a piece of dowel I had hammered into the clutch plate a couple inches.
The crenelations of the clutch plate easily 'machined' the dowel and I just pressed the 'self-lathed-by-eyeball small end' of that dowel into the crank hole (as I recall, been a couple years now).

Worked great, first time. I believe store bought 'clutch alignment tools' have always been a bit over-rated. JMHO, BOE

Thom
1959 TR3
TS34909L(O)
 
I haven't used the finger method since I was 15, and for good reason. It's hard enough getting the splines engaged when the disc alignment is perfect...I don't need the extra frustration of popping the clutch loose several times in the process.
 
One of my TR4 manuals mentions using a 6" piece of 1"dia. stock with a 2" section turned to 1/2" to fit the pilot bushing.
Berry
 
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