TR6 Question about 74 TR-6 suspension

[drumbeater]

I was test driving a 74 TR6 today I was considering buying. I have never driven a Triumph before so things that seem odd to me may be normal.

When accellerating and shifting gears, the rear end would settle what felt like 4-6" everytime you shifted gears. It was almost like the rear shocks were gone.

The car has not been driven much since a frame-off restoration 5 years ago. There are some oil leaks on the bottom of the engine, as well as the top (which I suspect is a bad filler cap gasket). Some of the paint is peeling from the frame and inside engine comp. but not too bad. I saw photos of the car as it went through restoration and it is for real. Any thing specific I should look for and expect in a car that has sat around alot for the last four years?

Thanks,

DB

 

[healeys4me]

DB, welcome to the forum. These rear suspensions have several predictable weak points. The good news is that all can be upgraded to better than new sepcifications. First are the springs which tend to sag over the years. Without strong springs, the rear dips under acceleration. The rubber bushings are prone to turning to mush over the years and should be replaced if upgrading the rear syspension. The easy check on shocks is topping off with fresh oil then go for a ride. One final check point is a cross member that sits above the rear end. This cross member holds the rear end mounts and under heavy torque may break over the years. If this happens, you will have a sagging feeling to the car and may hear a clunk each time you go through the gears.

If any of these conditions mentioned exist with this 6 you are looking at I would challange the seller about what his impression of frame off restoration is.

John
74 TR6

 

[drumbeater]

I saw pictures of the car with just a frame and suspension mounted, no body, engine, drivetrain, or anything. I, of course, have no reason to doubt the seller. I figured sitting for a while with little use may have taken its toll on the suspension in some way.

Do you think the oil leaks(small drips, nothing major) is anything to worry about?

 

[Bruce Bowker]

[ QUOTE ]
When accellerating and shifting gears, the rear end would settle what felt like 4-6" everytime you shifted gears. It was almost like the rear shocks were gone. [ QUOTE ]


No street car I know should do this. Something is wrong somewhere. Check it out well and offer a less money.

Bruce

 

[philkile]

As someone who drove a TR-250 fresh from the factory I can attest to the fact that these cars had a fair amount of rear end "squat" when at their freshest.

 

[Guest]

The TR6 is noted for its "squat", part of the fun of owning an old, independent-suspended car. I always enjoyed this little quirky trait. However, 4-6 inches is a bit much. Perhaps you just think that it is squatting that much. Like the above posts, be suspicious. You should always have someone that knows to put the car on a lift and REALLY check it out.

Bill

 

[healeys4me]

The oil leaks are tough to call from a distance. Can you get the car to a local Triumph club member to look over? The keen eye of someone familure with these cars is always worth the time and expense.

John

 

[drumbeater]

Let me redirect a minute, because I want everyone to understand what I'm looking at.

This is a 1974 BRG tr6 that had a frame off restoration done around 5 years ago. The owner's husband passed away a year or so after the car was completed. She told me that she drives the car on occaision, but has not sold it due to understandably sentimental reasons.

The restoration was complete, with a lot of the cars original parts being reused. Some electrical items work, others don't. The engine bay is extremely clean with the exception of the oil leaks noted, and some of the BRG paint peeling off one of the wheel wells. The frame has some paint peeling in one area with minimal rust forming on the exposed steel.
The car has autodrive and a factory hardtop in perfect condition. The ad works.
Now I have a 289 Cobra replica with somewhere around 330hp. I have never driven a TR6 and maybe expected more power/acceleration and a stiffer suspension. It is a very nice car with good paint, few blemishes, and I think the problems I found were from non-use more than anything.

I am looking to purchase a car for my wife to drive, and this one may fit the bill. Her other desire is a Fiat Spider. The owner is asking $10,000 for the auto and I tend to want to discount it for the repairs that are needed. She is a really nice lady and I don't want to bottom dollar her, especially under these circumstances. Does that help with opinions.

DB

 

[Steve]

May you are over-estimating the amount of rear-end squat? There will be a fair amount, and maybe it seems un-nerving when compared to your Cobra replica. I feel that $10K is pretty fair for a TR6 that has undergone a restoration, and the electrical items are really not going to be that much of a problem to sort out. A patient, methodical approach is going to pay dividends here. My vote is to go for it. For what it sounds like you will be getting, the price seems okay to me......maybe try for between $500 and $750 below? Good luck.

 

[piman]

Hello DB,
the 'squat' is a charcteristic, and I would suggest that if the frame had cracked or weakened then the car would be low at rest and not squat as much as usual as a lot of the available travel would have been lost. If the springs are 'tired' then they are not expensive or difficult to replace.

Alec

 

[Rick O.]

The TR6 is actually fairly underpowered at 106 BHP or so, so the comparison with your Cobra replicar will be dramatic. Before you get that 6 for your wife, make sure she is comfortable with its characteristically-heavy clutch. That could be a deal killer.

 

[jeff3113]

I had wondered about the rear end squat myself when I first picked up my 1975 TR6. I found the torque steer from the open diff unacceptable.
I do have to admit it wasn't the fastest thing on the road but it was fun rev'ing thru the gears.
NOW with a 300+ Hp SBC and a limited slip BMW diff it is an entrely different beast. My "new" TR has an entirely different personality - although it looks the same. Your Cobra is the same idea. Differences in what is the source of the thrill.
I can truly appreciate the fact that the TR6 is a fun-spirited design. It is what it is. I really liked what it was BEFORE the conversion(although not my ultimate goal).

You are getting a good deal for a car in what you describe as it's condition. Check the NADA and you will see the $$ range.

All the best in your decision.
Jeff

BTW, I installed rear air shocks in my TR which makes it ride like heaven - and virtually NO squat!

 

[Bill Redd]

Last fall, I purchased a car that sat for a few years. It had not undergone any restoration (it is now!), but I'll add my comments.

Like others have said, the "squat" is a characteristic of the car. Could the peeling paint be from leaking brake fluid? That stuff is terrible!

Also, I noticed a great increase in acceleration after I had a chance to go through all the fluids, clean & adjust the carbs.

Good luck with it!

 

[drumbeater]

You know Bill, come to think of it the peeling paint both on the fender well and frame were in the same place, one above the other vertically, both on the drivers side. Brake fluid could be it.

 

[sammyb]

Drumbeater,
I would say that $10K is a VERY strong ask for a car that has not been really driven, nor really maintained in the last five years. Around here, a strong driver goes for around $6K, and cars you could win with at a local show go for under $10K.

It's often very hard to deal with people who have paid for a frame-off resto, because they feel the value is a combination of the amount they put into it and the emotional attachment. A car is worth what other similar cars have sold for, not the value of the parts and time.

Basically, I would approach it like this: Be very honest, as well as understanding. Explain that since the car has mostly sat for the last 5 years, it will likely need new seals, hoses...so that means clutch/brake master cyls (and slave cyl.) Brake wheel cyls also could be oozing. These are all easy things to do, but take time.

From the sounds of it, I would peg this as more a $6K car. I think all of the value guides (get one or two at your local Barnes and Noble) will support this.

As a former owner of a TR-250, you'll definitely want to have your wife drive the car before you buy it for her. The clutch (if in good working order) often is very stiff. A few times my knee was swollen after getting stuck in traffic in my 250.

If the car is squatting 6 inches, the restorer used the same springs, and they need to be replaced. I would also look at the shocks to see if they look original or replaced. Also look at the rubber bushings. If they don't look supple and new, just walk away from this car, because the restoration was completed on the cheap, and it's not worth paying a restored price for a poor resto car.

 

[vagt6]

That's excellent advice from Sammy. The best thing about TR6s is there's a lot of nice ones around. Don't buy the first one you see, look around and take your time. You'll find the right one for your budget, in time!

 

[drumbeater]

Here is a picture.

 

[benjaminabby04]

Hello DB,
The car that you are looking at sounds very similar to the 74 tr6 I purchased back this sping of 2004. I too had a lower squat - which was evident even when not accelerating. Todate I have replaced the shocks at approx $450, springs $75.
Further, I have had a problem with negative camber, but little did I know that I also had a toe - on the rear. Approx $300 later the toe is approx .25, and the camber is approx 1.5. ( still not great)
Despite having an appraiser look at the car - definetly get a 3rd party mechanic - or the sound advise of a local Triumph club enthusiast that knows the cars.....watch out for frame repairs! How's the oil pressure?
Goodluck