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I only use the brake side of my 59 Bugeye's master cylinder. There is a pushrod stop adjustment bolt that fits into the front edge of the pedal box that can be adjusted for the amount the pushrod comes out of the master cylinder. I have several manuals and none of them mention what the adjustment should be. They all mention the clutch side but none mention the brake side. DOes anybody know what the adjustment should be? Everything on my braking system is new. When I pump up my brake pedal everything works perfectly and it holds pressure but when I release the brake pedal and step on it again it goes to the floor and needs to be pumped up again.
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Pushrod length?
- Thread starter jgcable
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Simon TR4a
Jedi Knight
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The symptoms you describe are typical of air trapped in the system, not uncommon after replacing components which you have done.
Bleeding the brakes will solve this, has nothing to do with pushrod adjustment.
The pushrod should be adjusted to give a nice firm pedal, with about 1-2 cm. of travel before resistance is felt. If there is no initial travel the brakes will be dragging when the fluid gets hot from braking and expands, applying pressure to the brakes.
Make sure the rear brakes are adjusted correctly BEFORE you adjust the pushrod as clicking them up will make a big difference in pedal feel.
Simon, Triumph guy with similar brakes!
Bleeding the brakes will solve this, has nothing to do with pushrod adjustment.
The pushrod should be adjusted to give a nice firm pedal, with about 1-2 cm. of travel before resistance is felt. If there is no initial travel the brakes will be dragging when the fluid gets hot from braking and expands, applying pressure to the brakes.
Make sure the rear brakes are adjusted correctly BEFORE you adjust the pushrod as clicking them up will make a big difference in pedal feel.
Simon, Triumph guy with similar brakes!
Maybe I am bleeding my brakes wrong. Here is what I am doing:
I top off the master cylinder
I start at the rear passenger wheel.
Assistant pumps up the brake pedal and holds.
I open the bleeder and when the pedal goes to the floor I close it and my assistant pumps up the pedal again. I continue this procedure until there are no more bubbles in the line. I then proceed in doing the drivers rear, the passenger front and finally the drivers front. Is this correct? The last time I tried this I was able to get all the air out of the lines but the pedal would still go to the floor after it was released and then stepped on again. Maybe I didn't get all the air out.
I top off the master cylinder
I start at the rear passenger wheel.
Assistant pumps up the brake pedal and holds.
I open the bleeder and when the pedal goes to the floor I close it and my assistant pumps up the pedal again. I continue this procedure until there are no more bubbles in the line. I then proceed in doing the drivers rear, the passenger front and finally the drivers front. Is this correct? The last time I tried this I was able to get all the air out of the lines but the pedal would still go to the floor after it was released and then stepped on again. Maybe I didn't get all the air out.
Biff
Jedi Trainee
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The only thing I can comment on is that I start with the drivers rear, then the passenger rear, then the drivers front, and finish with the passenger front. This way you do the furtherest from the brake m/c to the closest. I made a pressure bleeder
https://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm
that makes it a one person job and it will eliminate any air in the system.
https://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm
that makes it a one person job and it will eliminate any air in the system.
screenprinter
Jedi Trainee
Offline
Hi JG -
I see you're still wrangling your brakes from your your previous thread about upgrading your hydraulics. Let's take it from square one:
First, I agree with Biff - a pressure bleeder cures a lot of brake bleeding ills and takes a bunch of guesswork out of the equation. So let's look at the equation we have now:
You've rebuilt or replaced most of the major components ao we know that there was air in the system big time after the replacement.
Did you Bench Bleed the rebuilt master cylinder?
Have you checked all rigid and flexible lines for pinholes, dents, crimps, dry rot/cracking of rubber lines?
You mentioned in the last thread that you ordered a new flexible line - did that improve the situation at all?
Checked all wheel cylinders and calipers ( If Applicable) visually for leakage?
If all these things have been done, the bakes are adjusted correctly and all else appears copacetic then that point to either air in the system or a bad Master Cylinder, for whatever reason.
My opinion of the dual reservoir dual purpose master brake/clutch cylinder is this: tho it's quaint, charming and a wonderful example of how somebody engineered a single component to do 2 jobs It seems to me that it is sorta complex for what it's supposed to do - If it was such a great system why did they abandon it so early in the model evolution in favor of a much simpler, less expensive and trouble free units such as the ones that they used for quite a while after this dubious engineering masterpiece?
My suggestion: If you've done everything correctly as you outlined in your posts and the thing still doesn't work, don't keep flogging a dead horse - replace the old cylinder with a new or factory rebuilt exchange unit - preferrably on of the newer single function units which are available from not only the british supply houses but can be found very inexpensively at places like AutoZone, PepBoys and Advance Auto.
You may have to modify the pedal box a bit but it sounds like you're no stranger to modifying stuff as witnessed by your description of your car in your previous thread. After all, all the cylinder has to do is forced hydraulic fluid through a line to another cylinder - it really doesn't matter how it looks or what year car it's supposed to fit as long as it pushes the juice, eh?
Good Luck Chap!
I see you're still wrangling your brakes from your your previous thread about upgrading your hydraulics. Let's take it from square one:
First, I agree with Biff - a pressure bleeder cures a lot of brake bleeding ills and takes a bunch of guesswork out of the equation. So let's look at the equation we have now:
You've rebuilt or replaced most of the major components ao we know that there was air in the system big time after the replacement.
Did you Bench Bleed the rebuilt master cylinder?
Have you checked all rigid and flexible lines for pinholes, dents, crimps, dry rot/cracking of rubber lines?
You mentioned in the last thread that you ordered a new flexible line - did that improve the situation at all?
Checked all wheel cylinders and calipers ( If Applicable) visually for leakage?
If all these things have been done, the bakes are adjusted correctly and all else appears copacetic then that point to either air in the system or a bad Master Cylinder, for whatever reason.
My opinion of the dual reservoir dual purpose master brake/clutch cylinder is this: tho it's quaint, charming and a wonderful example of how somebody engineered a single component to do 2 jobs It seems to me that it is sorta complex for what it's supposed to do - If it was such a great system why did they abandon it so early in the model evolution in favor of a much simpler, less expensive and trouble free units such as the ones that they used for quite a while after this dubious engineering masterpiece?
My suggestion: If you've done everything correctly as you outlined in your posts and the thing still doesn't work, don't keep flogging a dead horse - replace the old cylinder with a new or factory rebuilt exchange unit - preferrably on of the newer single function units which are available from not only the british supply houses but can be found very inexpensively at places like AutoZone, PepBoys and Advance Auto.
You may have to modify the pedal box a bit but it sounds like you're no stranger to modifying stuff as witnessed by your description of your car in your previous thread. After all, all the cylinder has to do is forced hydraulic fluid through a line to another cylinder - it really doesn't matter how it looks or what year car it's supposed to fit as long as it pushes the juice, eh?
Good Luck Chap!
Well, I finally got the brakes to work. It was the adjustment stop that limits the travel of the master cylinder pushrod. If the travel is to long the MC will not hold pressure. If the travel is too short the MC will not allow the fluid to return thus the wheel cylinders stay expanded. I adjusted the travel by adjusting the stop bolt that is screwed into the front flange of the pedal box. Thanks for all the help. Now on to my Weber problem!!
Salyers890
Senior Member
Offline
after i rebuild my front suspension (dependent on $$ and the completion of the project i'm working on now), i should be able to give up some spares for a decent price. what parts are you looking for?