TR6 Purchased a second TR6

[kodanja]

NIOCE'

 

[bigbadbluetr6]

Some guys just have all the luck.

 

[TR6BILL]

Or not.

 

[TRED]

Well it took what seems like 100 adjustments, but the car is running fairly good. Still a bit of a flat spot pulling from low RPM. Took a while to findout I had no vaccum to the dist. once I found that, the tuning changes started to help. I guess the switch off the radiator hose that directs the vaccum isn't working. Time to get going on the electric wiring issues and then on to suspension and tires.
Sure was fun getting out on the road with a stock type TR6, almost felt like 1973 when I bought my other TR6.

 

[tdskip]

Good for you Ed - back and on the road. Very cool.

 

[TR3driver]

I guess the switch off the radiator hose that directs the vaccum isn't working.

Just for clarity, a 71 shouldn't even have a thermal vacuum switch. And on the cars that do (72-74), it should be in the vacuum retard line. Since the vacuum retard is only active at idle (throttles closed), the TVS can only screw up your idle.

 

[TRED]

I guess the switch off the radiator hose that directs the vaccum isn't working.

Just for clarity, a 71 shouldn't even have a thermal vacuum switch. And on the cars that do (72-74), it should be in the vacuum retard line. Since the vacuum retard is only active at idle (throttles closed), the TVS can only screw up your idle.

Some very sharp people on this board, I believe the engine in my TR6 is a 72. I bypassed the thermo vacuum switch and now have the retard working any time the car idles. I put the timming at 8 BTDC with the retard line removed and plugged and then hooked it back up. Seems like I am fairly close on the tune-up now, but it still isn't right. The engine was pinging under heavy loads so I tossed in a 3 gallons of leaded 110 octane and filled the rest with 91 octane non-oxy gas, I think the ping is gone but this isn't the solution. Having fun with whis great big puzzle we call a LBC, did I tell you about the 10 qt oil change? Only leaked about one qt. on the ground and then one from the canister, due to my faliure to get the canister on right. Second try and there go's a couple more qts in the drain pan. Finely went and got the reading glasses and got it right on the third try.

 

[TR3driver]

Friend of mine had a TR6 where the centrifugal advance would go to full advance at a relatively low rpm. Apparently some DPO had dropped the nut from the point post and left it inside to rattle around; where it eventually mangled one of the advance springs and the post it mounted on.

I'd suggest slowly revving the engine up while watching the timing mark under a light. It should advance slowly and steadily until a fairly high rpm (don't have my TR6 book handy, but the max advance rpm should be in there or maybe someone else knows offhand).

Another thing to check if nothing else turns up is the accuracy of the timing mark. There is a rubber sleeve inside the damper, which sometimes moves and screws up the mark. The check for that is to buy or make a piston stop (break the ceramic out of an old spark plug, and thread the metal shell for a bolt with the head cut off); install it in #1 and gently turn the engine both forwards and backwards until the piston hits the stop. Mark the damper under the pointer each time the piston hits the stop; the marks should be equal distances from the TDC mark.

 

[AngliaGT]

Wow! & it's Yellow!Why would they want
to paint it Blue under the hood?
I really like the '65 Ford P/U too.
I have a '68 F250 (tow vehicle).

- Doug

 

[mrv8q]

Another thing to check if nothing else turns up is the accuracy of the timing mark. There is a rubber sleeve inside the damper, which sometimes moves and screws up the mark. The check for that is to buy or make a piston stop (break the ceramic out of an old spark plug, and thread the metal shell for a bolt with the head cut off); install it in #1 and gently turn the engine both forwards and backwards until the piston hits the stop. Mark the damper under the pointer each time the piston hits the stop; the marks should be equal distances from the TDC mark.

Wow, that's a great tip, one that I've never heard before... Thanks, Randall!