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TR2/3/3A Pully Conversion Kit for TR3

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deadair

deadair

Jedi Hopeful
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I've ordered a 3/8" Belt & Pulley Conversion Kit for my TR3A. After reading the instructions:

https://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/837-508.pdf

I'm concerned about getting the TDC marking correct. The instructions are very convoluted and I'm really not confident on how to proceed with this procedure.

I'm thinking, "why can't I just set the crank to TDC BEFORE removing the original pully, slip the new pully on, and mark the location at the pointer"?

Has anyone done this conversion? If so, any recommendations on how to set the TDC mark?
 
the directions tell you that you must use the bolt to pull the pulley down onto the crank, so when you tighten it the crank will rotate some. check out this link for finding TDC.

Finding TDC

you could use method 1 if you have an extention for a dial indicator to put in the sparkplug hole.
 
I use the method outlined in the Moss instructions. What part don't you understand?

BTW, I find it most amusing that they first claim to "make this pulley for this application", then later on admit that it fits "several different applications". If they actually made it just for this kit, the seal surface would be the right size instead of requiring the spacer! The damper/pulley is actually from an MG; TriumphTune used to offer this same kit many years ago (with the same spacer).
 
Actually, if you don't want to mess with a piston stop I don't see why you can't premark the damper using the original pulley for reference - since the keyway position fixes both old and new pulleys to the crank the same way. But to guarantee getting it 'right' I think you should confirm TDC as described.
 
TR4nut said:
Actually, if you don't want to mess with a piston stop I don't see why you can't premark the damper using the original pulley for reference - since the keyway position fixes both old and new pulleys to the crank the same way. But to guarantee getting it 'right' I think you should confirm TDC as described.
Click to expand...

Yes, I agree this should be as accurate as any other method. I have a dial indicator with a shaft that extends about 2.5", if my memory is correct. If it's long enough, I guess I could double-check the setting with that.

It just seems cheesy to rig up a piston stop with a "hollowed out" spark plug and rod. The instructions say I don't have to worry about the length of the rod, but that doesn't sound right to me (can it be 12"? Not bloody likely!). That's the main source of my confusion with the instructions. And how would I "knock the center out" of a spark plug, anyway?
 
deadair said:
It just seems cheesy to rig up a piston stop with a "hollowed out" spark plug and rod.
Click to expand...
Well, if you would really rather spend your money, they are available commercially.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Comp%20Cams/249/4795/10002/-1?CT=999

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] The instructions say I don't have to worry about the length of the rod, but that doesn't sound right to me (can it be 12"? Not bloody likely!). [/QUOTE]The point is that the length doesn't have to be any precise value to produce accurate results. Yes, it has to be long enough to actually stop the piston, and short enough that you can screw the threads into the plug hole before the stop hits the opposite side of the cylinder. But anything between maybe 2" and 6" will work fine. Mine's somewhere around 3".
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] And how would I "knock the center out" of a spark plug, anyway? [/QUOTE]See BFH ...
 
Re: Pulley Conversion Kit for TR3

I noticed that the timing mark on the original crank pulley was exactly the opposite (180 degrees) from the keyway. This took all of the guesswork out of finding the correct place to mark.
 
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