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Pulled the radiator after a leak was spotted

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livinginthepast

livinginthepast

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by our intrepid eagle-eyed Spridgeteers at BillM's place last weekend. Took it in for repairs.

My question, once I get it back, should I be concerned about the paint I use to dress it up? I had read about Eastman's radiator black and they maintain that other paints are too heavy for the application and inhibit heat transfer. Other people told me it doesn't make a lick of difference.

Opinions?

Thanks!

BillW
 
I'm for doesn't make a lick of difference - I just used black rattle can to touch it up - and when I watched the guy in the rad shop, he seemed to be doing the same thing.
 
Bill- you are in Seattle where it never seems to ever get over 70 degrees! The paint type won't matter! Just stop any rust and be happy!
BillM
 
Radiator black, chassis black, undercarriage black, wheel black, brake caliper black, engine black, under hood black and my favorite, guide coat black. REALLY?
All made by the same company with a different label and price, usually twice as much as the name brand you buy anywhere.
Most rattle can spray paints are good for up to 400*, if your engine, radiator or calipers get that hot, you have other problems.
I haven't used "engine enamel" in years, just Sherwin Williams Spridget green in a rattle can and it holds up great. Krylon on my daughter's Sprite engine because she wanted it red and black. Krylon on radiators, brake drums, etc.
You may prefer Rustoleum or Martin Senour brands, just watch out for the .99 cent stuff, it's not the greatest but it is a perfect guide coat paint.
 
Sounds like the verdict is in. Don't make no diff. Thanks everyone.
 
Billm said:
Bill- you are in Seattle where it never seems to ever get over 70 degrees! The paint type won't matter! Just stop any rust and be happy!
BillM
Click to expand...

Hey, we almost hit 70! Sort of. :smile:

Now that this has been said, it will hit 100F for the ABFM. I'm becoming very superstitious as get to know my car.
 
So, here's one for the rip-off encyclopedia.

I knew I should have waited and shuttled the radiator down to my usual guys at Brooklands in Tacoma - but I figured it was just a solder job to seal a leak so I took it to a local place nearby here in Covington. Big mistake.

Besides advertising that they are radiator specialists, they don't even do their own work - they ship out to some other crackpot shop a few miles down the road in Kent. Now, when I didn't hear from them after three days, I dropped by the place this morning and here is the story I got from these ****s. Radiator is pretty much unusable. Needs to be totally rebuilt - recore, etc. And here's the best part; it will cost more than $500 to do.

I laughed.

I said, I can go to Moss or VickBrit and get a reconditioned radiator for HALF that. All I wanted you to do is solder up the leak...The radiator was cooling just fine.

I asked for my radiator back and left.

Sheesh.
 
Maple Valley Radiator over on 169 is my place of choice- good folks and HONEST!
BillM

Or Southend Auto Wrecking in Renton, they soldered up 2 of mine for $35 each and they don't leak now.
 
Thanks, Bill - I'll head over to one of those you mention after the holiday.
 
I have to ask. Is the same guy soldering radiators at Southend Auto Wrecking the same guy who has been doing for maybe 100 years? He is good.
 
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