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T-Series Puff of blue smoke on startup

PAUL161

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After a good run and sutting engine down for a couple hours, I get a puff of blue smoke on start up, it disapears imediatly. Valve guide seals? They only have about 35,000 miles on them. Always has clean 20/50 oil and new filters. PJ
 

XJtom

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Paul,
I'd say you answered your own question..........are they the mushroom type? sometimes the less mileage you do the more of a chance these types of problems occur
 
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PAUL161

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Tom, I hope that's correct, to my knowledge the seals are the original O ring type, no mention that the seals were of another type when the engine was rebuilt. I'll put some oil in the stem washers and see how long it takes for the oil to leak down past the collets. I'm not worried about the situation, so no big rush to solve the problem during the driving season, I'll wait until she's put to bed for the winter and replace them. Thanks for your comment. PJ
 
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PAUL161

PAUL161

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Last night I checked the valve seals for leakage. Found the 1-2-& 3 will leak down overnight to minimum oil in the upper washer, and number 8 will leak down to zero in 2 hours. 4-5-6 & 7 don't leak down at all. Naturally, I'll replace all the seals. I'll order 2 sets in case one gets damaged during installation. Here's a picture of 1-2-and 3 in the morning the second picture is number 8 after 1 hour. The rest still have oil in the washers after 3 days of setting. Number 8 is the prime culprit for the smoke after start-up after a short time! PJ

Valves 3-2-&-1.jpg
Valve 8 & 7.jpg
 
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PAUL161

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Just ordered 2- "O" ring sets and a new set of rocker arm lock plates. (y)
 

XJtom

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so the main ones that leak down are they exhaust or a mix...also have you investigate the type that fit over the guide
 
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PAUL161

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Exhaust and intake use the same O rings. I'm one to stick with what the factory installed. Not saying other options aren't as good, but why change after all these years. I don't experiment with a 65-year-old engine. Only a guess, but I would venture a guess that 95% of these engines have the original design seals, quite a testament to the factory's original design!
 
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PAUL161

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valve spring tool5.jpg
I just made up a valve spring compressor tool with a very simple design and it works very well! The unique thing about this tool is, no one else is needed to hold anything! Once the spring is compressed you can walk away have lunch come back and everything is as you left it! I'm one for simplicity and cheap! :jester: So instead of paying $100 for a tool and not being sure it would work, I made my own for free!!:thumbsup2: PJ
valve spring tool3.jpg
 

XJtom

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looks good, did something similar about 45 years ago and still have it, welded a 1/2" round bar on it to leaver, needed a multi fit for various size motors....are you air compressing the cylinders? ... still might be worth considering the valve stem caps if you have the problem again sooner than expected.
 
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PAUL161

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90 lbs of air in the cylinder holds the valve up tight. I do put a soft rag under the tail of the tool when in use to prevent scratching. So simple and it works very well. (y)

valve spring tool4.jpg
 
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PAUL161

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Two cylinders are done. I used the larger split soda straw method to get the seals over the valve stems with a generous amount of oil on the straw and stem, it works very well, and no seal damage! The collets are a little pain, but not much. Two cylinders are done as of this post. PJ
soda straw O ring install.jpg
 
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PAUL161

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After 24 hours, zero oil leak down. (y) Two of the washers were stuck, so I had to raise the cylinder pressure to 100 lbs, did a little tapping with a very small brass hammer and they popped loose. Very easy job. The rocker tower shims shown are .020 to give a better profile for the rocker riding on the valve stem with the Crane cam. PJ


valve stem seals no leaks.jpg
 
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DrEntropy

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Did similar shims in the 1800 MGB here. Also a Crane cam.
 
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PAUL161

PAUL161

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Sorry, my old brain is a little slow! The rocker tower shims are .035 not .020! :rolleyes2:
 
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PAUL161

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Also, through a friend in Tasmania, I found out that the O rings I removed were not the correct O rings for my engine! They are square-edged
soda straw O ring install.jpg
and not round as required! They will work for a short time but will eventually leak! New ones from Moss, as on the soda straw being installed are correct. PJ
1valve stem O rings.JPG
 

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