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Proper use of your Oxy/Acetylene Torch

AweMan

Jedi Knight
Offline
Proper use of your Oxy/Acetylene Torch

Bottles:
The acetylene bottle should never be placed on its side always stand it erect. It contains acetone and placing the bottle on its side gives the probability that the acetone can get into your hose, acetone and rubber do not mix well, and the hose will be damaged causing leakage. Not to mention what it will do to your regulators.
Proper valve usage
The valve on the acetylene bottle should be turned no more than half a turn on for safety purposes , when turning your acetylene bottle on be sure to check for leakage around the valve and regulator. {Easy to smell} If the packing in the valve becomes worn, loose, or damaged you should not use the bottle, remove it from use immediately. Especially with the acetylene valve, it is necessary to take all precautions to prevent leakage due to it`s volatile nature. A spark from the welding process can and will start it on fire if it is leaking. Acetylene is unstable at pressures above 15 P.S.I. and High pressure can ignite it.
Regulators:
The acetylene regulator should never be set any higher than 15 P.S.I. any higher and you risk a violent explosion! And acteone drawoff into your regulator and hose. If you can accomplish your welding task at a lower setting than 15 P.S.I by all means do so. Normaly very large tips like a rosebud {used for heating purposes} are the only tips that require the higher setting of 14 to 15 P.S.I. The oxygen regulator should be set to around 40 P.S.I.. It can be set higher but there is no need unless you are cutting very thick material {4 inches or more} when you are finished using the torch set, you should release the adjustment screws on both regulators so there is NO pressure what so ever on the regulator diaphrams and firmly turn both bottles completely off. Release all pressure form the hoses by cracking the torch valves. If you are inside an enclosed area like a garage make sure there is ample air circulation to clear any lingering gasses out of the area before closing the door.
Flashback preventers: Should be installed on each regulator and one on each hose connection on your mixing chamber. These prevent any combustion from entering your hoses or regulators, they can be purchased at any local welding supply source.
Mixing Chamber: When attaching a welding or cutting head to your mixing chamber, snug, just over hand tight is all you need. If you experience leakage at the joint you either need to replace the o ring or replace the whole mixing chamber DO NOT over tighten the attachments to the mixing chamber.
Mixing chamber valves: The same applies here a snug hand tightness is all that is required any tighter and you will damage the seats causing them to forever leak!
Hose Upkeep: Your hoses should last for years, several ways to ensure they do is.
Never spray sparks on them while cutting, welding or grinding.
Try not to drag them across sharp or hot objects.
Keep them coiled up on thier cart hose holder when not in use.
Keep them clean, wipe them off periodicaly with a rag and soapy water.
Keep your hoses out of the sun as much as possible.
Do not drop heavy objects on your hoses.
Safety:
Before starting any welding process the proper safety equipment is essential
Goggles: use as dark a shade as possible when welding with any process. You only have one set of eyes, protecting them is essential. Sun glasses {No matter how dark the shade is} are NOT recommended. They can if the circumstances are just right allow foreign debris in your eyes. It is not fun having hot molten metal come in contact with your eye. Use the proper goggles or welding shield/Helmet. Never look directly at any weld flame or arc with your naked eyes. Even the reflection coming off of the walls can cause severe damage. By all means take the time and precautions to protect yourself.
Earplugs: are essential safety equipment use them faithfully you won`t regret it in the end.
Loose ragged clothing and welding DO NOT go together, they are a fire hazard. Flammable liquids paint, grease, solvents, gasoline, ETC. are a no no when performing welding tasks remove them from your environment before performing welding tasks.
Gloves {leather} will prevent you from becoming severely burnt, use them when ever possible.
And by all means remember: Your Oxy/Acetylene cutting head is NOT A HAMMER!
DO NOT USE IT FOR ONE! {You would not believe how many so called professional welders I have seen use the back side of their cutting head to knock away a piece of metal they have just cut.}
Ok down to the nitty gritty
Tip selection :
Use as small a torch tip as you possibly can to accomplish the task at hand the reason is the larger the tip the larger the heat affected zone is. You want/need to keep the heat affected zone to a minimum and with a small tip you can control the distortion much easier.
Igniting the torch:
Secure all hose connections firmly {Do Not over tighten}. Set your regulators to their proper adjustments. Crack the acetylene valve on the mixing chamber slightly, using a striker try striking a flame {this may take several attempts due to the acetylene line {hose} being purged previously. Once you have flame turn the acetylene valve on the mixing chamber until you attain a flame that is not producing black soot, the flame should still be in direct contact with the torch tip. If it isn`t that means you have too much acetylene flow, turn it down until it contacts the torch tip. Next crack the oxygen valve on the mixing chamber increase the flow until you see a blue well defined cone at the torch tip, fuzzy or blurry cone means not enough oxygen. Once you attain a sharp well defined cone at the torch tip this is the top end of the heat range for that size tip. The heat range can be turned down to a point. To do this start with the oxygen valve on the mixing chamber, go slowly decreasing the flow. Then go to the acetylene valve on the mixing chamber and do the same until you attain that sharp well defined cone again. Once you attain the desired heat range for your purposes. Begin welding, soldering or brazing.
If you experience detonation or explosions while welding one of three things are wrong. #1 The welding tip you have choose is too big for the heat setting you are using.
What causes detonation is the gas mixture is combusting inside of the welding tip due to inadequate gas flow {the heat setting for this tip is turned down to low}.
Remedy: choose the next size smaller tip and begin again.
#2 A dirty tip can cause detonation as well. Usually a dirty tip will not attain a well defined blue cone next to the tip
#3 An overheated tip {using it in an enclosed area or holdding it too close to the metal you are welding}
Remedy: Turn off the gas and clean the tip.
Tip cleaning: Use the proper size tip cleaner for the orifice on the welding tip to be cleaned. Sometimes spatter enters these tips and it is necessary to remove it in order to attain a proper flame. Slide the tip cleaner in and pull it out of the tip at as close to a 90 degree angle as possible, these tip cleaners have an abrasive action and any distortion of the orifice of the weld tip will render it basically useless.
{Here is a technique that is kind of a barnyard approach but I have found it works and keeps me from abrading my tips. A piece of wood, a 2x4 or a piece of oak from an old pallet, basically any kind of wood will do. While the torch is ignited briskly rub it on the wood at a slight angle. Yes you will hear detonation this is normal. Then check the flame, adjust it if necessary to attain that same well defined blue cone. If after rubbing the ignited torch on the wood you can not attain the proper adjustment then you will need to turn the flame off and use the wire type tip cleaners to remove the obstruction causing improper adjustment.}
Note: DO NOT attempt this barnyard approach without flashback preventers in place and a spray water bottle and reliable fire extinguisher handy. use the spray bottle to extinguish the smoldering wood.
NEVER weld anything without a reliable fire extinguisher handy.
If you see the flame go out, and see soot emerging from the tip, and hear a whistling sound turn the mixing chamber valves off immediately! This means there is ignition inside of the tip. This condition is caused by placing the welding tip flat at a 90 degree angle while ignited on the wood. It is imperative that you DO NOT do this, Maintain a slight angle at all times while using this approach. All adjustments and cleaning techniques apply to cutting tips as well, with one exception and that is the forward valve on your cutting head. After you attain a neutral flame {in this case the well defined blue cones} turn the forward valve on wide open. Depress the cutting lever and look at the blue cones if they have become fuzzy or blurry while depressing the lever, adjust the rear oxygen valve until the well defined blue cones re appear. You are now ready to begin cutting
Clarification: the flame has two parts the blue cone next to the tip itself and the feather {the rest of the flame}
While cutting or welding a slight leading angel is what you want, the blue cone or cones should be in close proximity to the material to be welded or cut. In other words, nearly touching the metal. Detonation or explosions while cutting means the same thing as described above for welding tips. {tip too large for the heat setting or dirty tip.}
Let the metal become molten or liquid before depressing the cutting lever, move at a steady even pace. If done properly you should hear a steady sputtering sound and when complete you should have minimal slag on the reverse side. A lot of slag means one of several things.
#1 Tip adjusted too hot.
#2 Travel speed is too slow
#3 A dirty tip
Correct tip selection and adjustment in either cutting or welding is the key to attaining a desirable weld or cut. This comes with experience and practice
REMEMBER oxy/acetylene gas is highly volatile, a leaking bottle, hose, or valve has the potential to cause a severe explosion resulting in destruction and death. If you smell Acetylene in your garage or building when you are not using your torch investigate immediately and by all means do not have an open ignition source {cigarette, cigar or sparks ETC.} present.

The next article will cover soldering lead and silver.
Kerry
 
Re: Proper use of your Oxy/Acetylene Torch

Standard safety proceedures for an acetylene tank is to open it no more than 1/2 turn. That way the tank can easily and quickly be shut off in the case of an accident. Turning the valve fully open effectively ensures the gas supply cannot be shut off in an emergency. The v alve assemblies of the oxygen tank and the O2 tank differ significantly and design and recommended use.

Acetone is only in the acetylene tank. The Oxygen tank is bare inside. Acetone will not harm a regulator, as a regulator is all metal, usually brass and stainless steel. Acetylene can damage a rubber hose, and does screw up the flame. It is perfectly acceptable to transport an acetylene bottle on its side, but it is recommended that the bottle sit vertically for 24 hours prior to use to ensure all acetone has drained from the valve assembly.

There are no o-rings on welding torch tips. O-rings would melt in use due to the heat. Torch tips are flared, to seat against the tapered base of the mixing chamber.

Standard and recommended procedures from all manufacturers for their torch tips is to tighten them with the standard welding wrench. That is why they are generally hexed. Tighten securely, but do not overtighten.

There is no UV flash burn capability from torch welding. The importance of eye protection applies to arc welding. In the case of torch welding, the darkness is merely to compensate for the brightness of the flame and molten metal. Use a level of light filtering that gives you the best view. An excessively dark filter will prevent you from adequately seeing the molten puddle. This is why torch welding goggles are not as darkly tinted as arc goggles.

A bare acetylene flame always produces soot. Turning down the flame in an attempt to eliminate soot merely results in extinguishing the flame.

You add oxygen until the two seperate blue cones come together typically. Not merely until you see one of them. There are times to use either a carborizing or oxydizing flame, as opposed to a neutral flame.

Torch popping is also frequently caused by holding the torch in too close proximity to the metal, overheating it. A very common occurrence when welding down in a channel.

Attempting to rub clean the tip of a burning torch, especially on a piece of wood, is extremely foolish and rather unsafe. Between the flamability of wood and the folly of forcing a torch to burn back into itself... It is not a wise or safe practice. To clean the torch tip, turn the torch off.

Sputtering sounds when cutting are typically an indication of too rapid a pace. When cutting, a smooth and steady hiss should be heard.

A leading angle, while typical when welding, is not an exclusive angle. This is especially true when joining to pieces of metal with unequal thickness. In this case, the torch is generally angled away from the thinner metal to prevent burn through.

Due to the flamability potentials of both bottles, storing them inside a residential garage is unwise and unsafe. The bottles should be stored outside the housing unit, and in a well ventilated area. The oxygen bottle, owing to its extreme pressure and lack of odor, has been well known to create some exciting fires. Hence, basically, the hospital warning about not smoking when in an oxygen tent.

With home units that get stored for appreciable periods of time, inspect the hoses prior to use. Mice find welding hoses delicious, particularly older ones.
 
Re: Proper use of your Oxy/Acetylene Torch

Nice reads. Looks like we have two posters on the forum with flat fingers from typing rather long posts?
Cheers, David.
PS I am waiting for the soldering post.
 
Re: Proper use of your Oxy/Acetylene Torch

My mistake, I did revise the full on acetylene valve.
You are right about the "recomended" valve proceedure 1/2 turn on {i`v seen it stated anywhere from 1/4 to 1 1/2 turns on} on the acetylene bottle.
I have had an acetylene bottle catch on fire on me before due to a leaking packing. In a shop with 43 other welders where it is impossible to control what/whos sparks go where. NOT FUN! Yes very scared and yes did manage to turn the bottle off! {Thank god for heavy gauntlet leather gloves!} This bottle was only turned on 1/2 a turn.
Hand tightening was in refrence to the valves and valves only, not securing the tips to the mixing chamber, or hoses to the regulators or mixing chamber. Mabe my mistake but I figured common sense would prevail when one saw the hex on the tips and hose ends.
If you do not want to wear shaded goggles while oxy/acetylene welding, thats your buissness, but I know what I`m going to continue to do.
Storeing your bottles outside is a good thing to do. I agree! In my area you might not find them there in the morning, chained to the wall or not! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shocked.gif
I don`t know what brand of torches you have, but my Victors all have a small o ring on the end that fits into the mixing chamber.
Lets see .... Oh I never insinuated the Qxy bottle had anything except oxygen in them. Although it is under extremly high pressure and can contribute to a fire, but ..... in itself without a combustable source will not burn.
Ever taken a regulator apart? I have, and there is rubber diaphram O ring inside, at least there was on the ones I have tried to repair {usualy with no result beacuse even a new O ring would not attain a complete seal.}
Mice .... Now that is a very good point. But I have to say in my 30+ years welding I have never seen a mice eaten hose, Mind you, thats not to say it isn`t possible.
As for the wood cleaning technique, you are right I shouldnt have included that! For the simple fact that it isn`t idiot proof. {Not calling anyone an idiot mind ya}
You are correct about transporting the acetylene bottle laying down. And leting it stand for a time period {24 hours or more} before use. To clarify my comment I merely meant NOT to use the bottle while it is in the prone position.
Any experianced welder that has ever used an oxy/acetylene cutting attachment with an automated tractor to hold the cutting head steady and do a constant travel speed, knows the sputtering sound I spoke of well. If you are good and steady enough you can achieve this same sound and result by hand also.
last but not least: yes there are times when an oxidising or carborising flame are desireable. neither applies to welding or cutting mild steel.
I do apreciate your input. As others will as well.
Kerry
P.S. These comments are not for the sake of an argument! PLEASE TAKE THE COMMENTS IN MY POSTS FOR WHAT THEY ARE WORTH TO YOU AS AN INDIVIDUAL.
 
Re: Proper use of your Oxy/Acetylene Torch

Here is something I did not know about Acetylene until I did this research. Anyone that deals with Acetylene in any manner or fassion needs to read this in it`s entirety for your own safety
Here is the link
https://yarchive.net/explosives/acetylene.html

I knew this was a highly Volatile Gas but..... WOW!!!
Kerry
 
Re: Proper use of your Oxy/Acetylene Torch

Aweman & Foxtrapper, great articles. We can never learn too much about safety.

You might also mention that oxygen can spontanously combust if exposed to oil or grease. Oxygen should never be used to replace compressed air to "blow off" dirty or oily items.

Pete
 
Re: Proper use of your Oxy/Acetylene Torch

Am I right are you supposed to have flashback arrestors on the regulators, and on the mixing chambers, I have the arrestors on the regulaters but not on the chamber. need to to know for sure. Bob
 
Re: Proper use of your Oxy/Acetylene Torch

Bob:
Flashback arrestors on your regulators will save your regulators but not the hoses from the mixing chamber to the regulators. The reason I say to have Flashback arrestors on the mixing chamber is, If you don`t have them there and you have a flashback your hoses can and will most likely have meltdown. Then you would have fire spewing from the melted hoses. The oxygen hose is under considerable pressure and could begin whipping around much like a water hose under pressure does if let go of, spraying the fire everywhere.
Of course there are some that would say that arrestors on the mixing chamber would be sufficient to prevent fire from ever reaching your regulators, as well may be the case. But keep in mind that the arrestors are subject to failure, that is why I prefer to have them on both regulators and mixing chamber.
For the sake of a few dollars I would rather be safe than sorry.
 
Re: Proper use of your Oxy/Acetylene Torch

AweMan, I was mistaken ,I had them on the mixing chamber, I do have another set of arressters,that I will be putting on pronto. Thanks for the info. it is better to be safe than sorry.Bob
 
Re: Proper use of your Oxy/Acetylene Torch

Hi Bob,
Check for the direction of flow on those spare arrestors. They may not attach to the regulator correctly.
 
Re: Proper use of your Oxy/Acetylene Torch

The fittings on both regulators and the mixing chamber should be the same {at least mine are}. The arrestors are directional and can only go online one way {without buying a bunch of adaptors}. If you already have extra ones on hand, by all means put them to use.
 
Re: Proper use of your Oxy/Acetylene Torch

AweMan said:
The fittings on both regulators and the mixing chamber should be the same {at least mine are}.
Mine to. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
Re: Proper use of your Oxy/Acetylene Torch

Source: https://www.answers.com/topic/oxy-fuel-welding-and-cutting

Non-return valve

Between the regulator and hose, and ideally between hose and torch on both oxygen and fuel lines, a flashback arrestor and/or non-return valve should be installed to prevent flame or oxygen-fuel mixture being pushed back into either cylinder and damaging the equipment or making a cylinder explode.

The flashback arrestor (not to be confused with a check valve) prevents shockwaves from downstream coming back up the hoses and entering the cylinder (possibly rupturing it), as there are quantities of fuel/oxygen mixtures inside parts of the equipment (specifically within the mixer and blowpipe/nozzle) that may explode if the equipment is incorrectly shut down; and acetylene decomposes at excessive pressures or temperatures. The flashback arrestor will remain switched off until someone resets it, in case the pressure wave created a leak downstream of the arrestor.
 
Re: Proper use of your Oxy/Acetylene Torch

Hi Kerry,
Thanks for the link. Since the fittings on the torch and regulator are the same, wouldn’t putting an arrestor for the torch be backwards for the regulator? Here is a site that sells arrestors for both. Welding Depot
 
Re: Proper use of your Oxy/Acetylene Torch

Yep Greg: Ya gotta have the right ones for sure, {there are differences, one prevents flow in one direction and the other prevents flow in the oppisite direction. Both preventing flow towards the tanks.
I guess I failed to specify that in the original post (Not typing what im thinking} and presuming common sense will prevail.
Thanks for bringing that matter to my {and everyone elses} attention.
{When you have a good measure of common sense it just doesn`t seem to register that not everyone does.}
 
Re: Proper use of your Oxy/Acetylene Torch

Thanks,Greg, Aweman, informed me that there are the arrestors for the mixing chambers, and then different ones for the regulators,so I got some ordered, at this stage I want to enjoy my life, instead of being six feet down under.By the way, youv'e got one beautiful engine for your Healey. Bob
 
Re: Proper use of your Oxy/Acetylene Torch

Thanks Bob,
When I started my restoration, I dutifully bought the green engine paint. Then I just couldn’t bring myself to paint it that color.
sick0001.gif
 
Re: Proper use of your Oxy/Acetylene Torch

I, recieved the regulator flashbacks yesterday, no problem,but how do you know when they go bad? Have to know!
Bob, thanks
 
Re: Proper use of your Oxy/Acetylene Torch

Bob:
Flame arrestors require very little {if any maintenance}. If you have a flashback {the flame going up inside of the torch or cutting tip producing a whisteling sound and black soot emerging from the tip} then I recomend removing the flame arrestor/s and checking them for flow {they should be directional.} The arrow on the outter case points in the direction of flow. Some flame arrestors have a reset button, some are automatic. if you can`t obtain flow in the proper direction and the arrestor can`t be "reset" then it needs replacement. This link will describe how arrestors work
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flashback_arrestor
you can google for other links as well SEARCH: FLAME ARRESTOR MAINTENANCE: or FLAME ARRESTOR USE
Check valves can be another added safety feature, although the upper end flame arrestors for the most part incorporate check valves in thier design.
I hope this helps!
 
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