TR6 Progress report on White TR6

[Norton47]

Here is a link to some progress photo's.
https://s225.photobucket.com/albums/dd50/Norton47/Progress/
I have gotten the engine bay painted. It did not come out as shiny as I would have liked. I tried laying on a heavier coat but it didn't help. Almost like it flashed to quick or humidity was bothering it. This was done with a rattle can. It is a temporary finish until I do a frame off of the car someday in the future. It still looks alot nicer than it was. See the before photo's.
The engine block and head are painted with POR-15 rust preventative paint and are ready to be assembled. This will probably wait until after Christmas.
I also included a photo of my cherry veneer and the vacuum bag that I intend on using to glue it down with. The white melamine covered board is one of the platens. This bag comes from a kit developed by skateboarders. I found it at Woodcrafter's. I may try and get that glued up tonight or before we leave for the sister in laws tomorrow.
Merry Christmas everyone! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/angel.gif

 

[2wrench]

Norton: Impressed with the stripped engine bay.
You're right, the gloss doesn't seem to be there, but
it looks very clean just the same. Engine looks
good, too. I am at the crossroads of should-do's,
and one is to paint the engine bay. Nothing less makes
sense, because the engine is out.
I am so lazy. Maybe I need a talking to in order
to make sure I do this right, huh?

 

[Norton47]

2wrench
Thanks, I too was at that crossroads and was not going to do a lot of extra clean up work. The old slippery slope. But the more I looked at the engine bay, and thought just how much or little had to be taken out to paint it, I thought I gotta do it. I just wish, I had made a little spray booth in the garage and used my HVLP to spray it, instead of rattle cans. Still thinking about doing that or trying to rub it out, but so many nooks and crannies for that. Will probably just live with it.
The wife likes the look and it looks so much cleaner. Boy, does that feel good to hear!
I took a lot of photos and wrote out wiring cheat sheets.
I also did the throttle rod bushing upgrade.It's a real snap with everything out.
It wasn't that bad once I started. I degreased, then used a red scotch bright pads to knock off the gloss and a wire brush for the heavier rust. Those area's I put the POR-15 on.
Now gotta deal with all the black parts going back in. Won't look right unless they are touched up too.
Good luck, I will continue to follow your rebuild, you are doing great and taking a more hands on approach with the engine. Hats off.
Good wrenching.

 

[2wrench]

Thanks, Norton. We'll see just how wise this is, but
I figure there is not better way to learn than to go for
it.
It's so darned cold here that to use the correct gun
to shoot paint...or any method, for that matter....seems
a bit risky. I have had paint go bad because I might
have been going for it just a little too late in the
year.
Answer this time was to try to warm up the garage or
something like that. I'll have to turn off the water
heater, because it is in the garage. Don't want to
become a statistic.

 

[Tinster]

Hey Norton !!

Nice looking photos !!

Remember now, I am kinda isolated and have never seen
a TR6 other than my own. So grain of salt opinion.

I painted my engine bay shiny finish and didn't like it.
I stripped it down to bare metal again. The second time
I used a satin finish and I liked it much better. I think
the satin finish sets off the engine and other stuff better
than the shiny.

Just my opinion.

tinster

 

[2wrench]

Norton: You and me are tethered by the onus of doing
the right thing all the while considering settling
for less than we know we want. I conclude this based
on your comments to the effect of you'll do it again,
"better" implied without being stated, when you go for
frame-off.

This is nagging at me. Why? First, because I am doing
the same darned thing. My engine bay looks like yours
did before you removed the wiring; brakes parts;
yadda, yadda.

I am trying every way to figure how to paint it pretty
like I want without the risk of removing any more stuff
because I'm way beyond my comfort zone here, already.

I think that because I am telling you, likely, what you
don't want to hear -- and where I'm going with it is to
encourage you to paint it now till you're satisfied,
because you are standing near that pinnacle of success
after the long and difficult road or removing everthing
from the engine bay.

Now, that being said: I am going to go for stripping
my engine bay, taking my own advice and pep talk, and
in doing so, I just might likely be giving you and the
Forum shouts for help.

Regarding paint: Something tells me it's about
humidity, and I don't know exactly why, guess just
because I've been there with similar results.

Can you warm a room, garage, whatever? I say -- cause it's easy for me -- scotch brite scratch and shoot.

Lastly, we only get what we go for.

Best of luck, Brother

 

[TR3driver]

You guys and your show cars ... I just hit mine with flat black from a rattle can whenever the original pale yellow started peeking out. Didn't look so great, but it ran just fine !

 

[Norton47]

I agree driving them is where it is at.
2wrench, I am ok with the satin finish. The comment about frame off is because I intend to keep this car and when the last daughter is in college, I am going to do a frame off restoration. In the mean time I am going to use it when not riding my motorcycles. So that meant a reliable running gear.
That's where I have put the money at currently.
Glad to here you talked yourself into pulling everything out. There's not that much. The real kicker is putting everything back in and deciding to I paint it or just re-install it. Paints winning. Sorry TR3driver. Slippery slope.

 

[2wrench]

Okay. Just a check to see if you were really getting
what you wanted. Totally understand where you're
coming from.

So, do you wanna tell me about things like
removing the master brake reservoir; slave reservoir?

Is this difficult? Will I make a mess or can it be
avoided? I suppose I'll have to bleed the brakes
after, of course?

 

[Norton47]

2wrench
There are just 4 nuts holding the vacuum canister to the firewall, one cotter key on the pin to the brake pedal.Then the brake lines. I use a plastic syringe to remove all the fluid from the master cylinder and then place a rag under the lines and take them off the m/c. I then removed the output lines from the PDWA. These were a little sticky and I use KROIL oil on them and broke them free. (there is a post by Paul and rebuilding the PDWA), then removed the PDWA with the lines to the master cylinder as an assembly.
Brakes will need bleeding.
The clutch M/C is 2 bolts and a cotter pin on the pin to the pedal and a hold down clamp for the fluid line, located down on the bottom of the inner fender. The slave is probably already hanging as you have the tranny out.
The wiring is all color coded and should have british bullet type disconnects. You may find using a needlenose pliers to grasp the wire right where it goes into the splice to help in pulling these apart. If you just pull on the wire, you might pull it out of the crimped on bullet or break it. When putting these back use some silicone grease or I use a NAPA product called Sil-Glyde part # 765-1351.
Once everything is disconnected it will feed back through the firewall.
Photo everything and draw pictures of the wiring hook ups on the fusebox and the relays.
Don't worry I have some and I am sure we can get it connected up again. I am lucky as I have my friends car in the other bay, makes for a handy reference when I can't remember.
Good luck

 

[2wrench]

Thanks, Norton. I shot an inside fender well today, the
easy side, just to try to propell me further.

Also, I cleaned my tranny. Happy with the way it came
out. Looks like it might have been painted with POR-15
Silver. Don't know for sure.

See ya,