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Progress-new thread Monday
- Thread starter jlaird
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GB1
Yoda
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Jack
I would try changing the pushrod if you have it, since it an easy job and bleeding her more next Tuesday.
I do not understand why rpm's would matter, unless maybe the bubble shifts with increased engine yaw /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif
Please stay out of fifth and sixth until she gets broken in better /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/driving.gif
Otherwise sounds like many grins per mile /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
Pat
I would try changing the pushrod if you have it, since it an easy job and bleeding her more next Tuesday.
I do not understand why rpm's would matter, unless maybe the bubble shifts with increased engine yaw /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif
Please stay out of fifth and sixth until she gets broken in better /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/driving.gif
Otherwise sounds like many grins per mile /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
Pat
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Hey, Jack....remember when we were young & these were our 1st or 2nd cars & we just lived with their little quirks & had fun? hehehehe...another sign we're getting older!
Westfield_XI
Jedi Warrior
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I can too, but nowdays it requires the assistance of my wife, whan I was younger I could do it myself, but it usually took a bit longer even then. It's nice to have someone to help clean up the mess too. No matter how tidy we try to be there are always some drips and dribbles to wipe up afterwards.Bugeye58 said:
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jlaird
Great Pumpkin
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No drive today, still warm but misting and is supose to all day.
Ok, back to the problem. Here is the scope out on this issue. Clutches are designed to make contact harder as the RPM goes up. ie it is much harder to disengage the clutch at 5K that at idle.
That said, and is a truism, any bubble in the slave line would be magnified as the RPM goes up.
Will see the local guy Tuesday who has both a suction and a pressure bleeder.
This is I think the last major mechanical issue in my mind with Miss Agatha.
It will then be time to go back to the paint shop after the first of the year and get that finished. Heck she has not even been buffed out yet although there is a bit of remedial body work that did not work out so well the first time around.
Ok, back to the problem. Here is the scope out on this issue. Clutches are designed to make contact harder as the RPM goes up. ie it is much harder to disengage the clutch at 5K that at idle.
That said, and is a truism, any bubble in the slave line would be magnified as the RPM goes up.
Will see the local guy Tuesday who has both a suction and a pressure bleeder.
This is I think the last major mechanical issue in my mind with Miss Agatha.
It will then be time to go back to the paint shop after the first of the year and get that finished. Heck she has not even been buffed out yet although there is a bit of remedial body work that did not work out so well the first time around.
Jack, the clutch apply force is a function of the spring pressure from the pressure plate, and has nothing to do with RPM.
RPM has no bearing on the hydraulics, either, as that is simply Force=hydraulic pressure x area of piston.
Air in the system <u>could</u> cause the problem you have, if you are just stabbing the clutch at the higher RPM shift, rather than slowly applying it at idle.
Jeff
RPM has no bearing on the hydraulics, either, as that is simply Force=hydraulic pressure x area of piston.
Air in the system <u>could</u> cause the problem you have, if you are just stabbing the clutch at the higher RPM shift, rather than slowly applying it at idle.
Jeff
startech47
Jedi Knight
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Jack,
During the oil leak repairs did you change any of the clutch or clutch related parts? Did you do something different in the assemble process? I thought I read something about you changing the clutch disk. Some pressure plates are designed to add force as the RPM increases, some are not, both Borg and Beck and the diaphragm types. How was the fit of the clutch release bearing carrier to the tube of the front transmission cover and did you lubricate it? On the TR6's you need to radius the sharp edges of the release bearing carrier.
Phil
During the oil leak repairs did you change any of the clutch or clutch related parts? Did you do something different in the assemble process? I thought I read something about you changing the clutch disk. Some pressure plates are designed to add force as the RPM increases, some are not, both Borg and Beck and the diaphragm types. How was the fit of the clutch release bearing carrier to the tube of the front transmission cover and did you lubricate it? On the TR6's you need to radius the sharp edges of the release bearing carrier.
Phil
Phil, the throwout bearing setup is entirely different on the A series cars. They don't ride on a sleeve like the Triumphs do. I've polished my fair share of the Triumph sleeves to insure that the release bearings function correctly. The Sprite bearing just mounts to the release fork, and pivots in the air.
Jeff
Jeff
startech47
Jedi Knight
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Thanks Jeff. You are correct. I remember the wire clips holding the bearing onto the clutch fork now. Waht 30 years does to the memory.
Phil
Phil
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jlaird
Great Pumpkin
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I been thinking, dangerous that is.
I wonder, I just wonder if a dirt dauber made a bit of a plug in the clutch line that does not allow the fluid to move freely as it should. I think a good perge is in order.
Think I will do that ASAP, when my back quits bothering me.
Hate to think of removeing the fluid from the MC but guess that is the first order of business. Unscrew both ends of the line and blow it out with compressed air and just make sure that all is clear.
What you say guys, sound like a plan?
I wonder, I just wonder if a dirt dauber made a bit of a plug in the clutch line that does not allow the fluid to move freely as it should. I think a good perge is in order.
Think I will do that ASAP, when my back quits bothering me.
Hate to think of removeing the fluid from the MC but guess that is the first order of business. Unscrew both ends of the line and blow it out with compressed air and just make sure that all is clear.
What you say guys, sound like a plan?
Well, it won't hurt anything to try, Jack.
But how would it have gotten in there in the first place? You <u>immediately</u> cap and plug all lines when you remove them, don't you? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
Jeff
But how would it have gotten in there in the first place? You <u>immediately</u> cap and plug all lines when you remove them, don't you? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
Jeff