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Progress-new thread Monday

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Ok, great. Now, am I going to be able to get that rear bearing cap off with out pulling the engine? ie pull the pan and unbolt, clean, seal, and replace.

I think maybe but am not real sure it will come out the bottom with the back plate on.

Jeff, Steve, am I on the right track do you think?
 
Okay, I have talked to Dad about all of this before and again tonight. I have a VERY similar issue and need to get the blasted thing back to check it over as well. I has told me over and over that these cars leak!!! I have built countless motors and transmissions and have never had a leak right after the build or until I sold the car. Why is this one different? The only thing I could think of over the summer was overfilling the transmission. Jack's issues seem to just keep coming. After he fixes one leak another arises. I am wondering if I should even pull my motor to see what is happening? I have a few things to replace or fix that I am not exactly happy with and the pull would not be much more work. The only thing that I can guarantee is a complete drain of the tranny and then replace with the exact amount of oil. I know Jack is not seeing a leak from the tranny now, but can it leak from any other place besides the front gasket seal? Can an overfill cause a runout the front?
 
Jack, I went out and tried to remove a rear main cap from a 1098 with the back plate on, and it wouldn't come out. I didn't have a 948 with the plate on and the pan dropped, but it's no-go with the 1098.
Sorry, bud.
Jeff
 
Oh my word, engine out time again I guess.

Did you look at that scroll seal rear main cap. What could be wrong there that allows so much oil through?
 
No, I didn't pop the eybrow off to look at it. It's 20* in the garage, and I was dealing with a frozen chunk of cast iron! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
My <u>guess</u> is that any minor imperfecton in the mating surfaces is going to let oil escape without sealant on there. That's a direct path for pressurized oil.
Other than that, your guess is just as good as mine.
Jeff
 
SIGH, guess the fourth engine pull is in my future.

Jeff, the eyebrow is sealed in there. I just did not use goop on the rear bearing shell where it abuts to the block.
 
I don't think that much oil could get past the rear main cap unless something was between it and the block or it had a really bad burr on it. I have not used sealer on that area. I have used the thin paper gasket with copper coat on the eyebrow.
When you pull the tranny off the block, start looking for the oil trail before you remove the clutch and flywheel. Be very careful when pulling the rear cover and maybe you can see the oil trail. It's probably difficult since your oil is clean. I hope you get it fixed before you drive it much more, because it makes a real mess when it blows all the way to the rear of the car thru the tunnel.
 
Jack

Has the rear engine plate every been swapped or changed.

Mark
 
Yep, has been off several times. In fact each time I have changed the engine.

Been thinking:

Drained the oil this evening, boy was it dirty, in fact I think I still have massive blow by. Am going to wait till I get the fuel pump mount vent and install it before I do anything else other than maybe run it daily to try to get the rings seated properly.

I am mostly convenced that the rings have not seated yet, maybe only one cylinder but, no clue as to why really but that has to be the root of the problem, that pressure has to go some place. I note that there is oil in both vent tubes, the valve cover and the tappet chest pipe if I use my little finger and kind of feel just in side.

I suspect that I did have a couple leaks, tranny and oil pan. Both are fixed now but the blow by continues. Oh well, everytime I take her out I find a bit to tweek so is not really too bad.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Drained the oil this evening, boy was it dirty[/QUOTE]
& that engine's got, what, maybe 100 miles on it, Jack?
 
Heck, less that that Tony, prob 60. Wonder if the filter is working, hehe.
 
There is probably something wrong with the rings on that one piston. Maybe one is broken or something.

I had rebuilt a Mercedes 280 engine one time and the rings never seated right. took it out again and changed them and it worked fine. No explanation on why they were bad.

Dark oil now means combustion products in the oil. That combined with the wet plug before says replace the rings on that cylinder.
 
Yep, kind of think so myself. Will give it a bit longer and will try the other vent when it gets here as well.

This too shall pass, I hope.
 
All things must pass, Jack!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbsup.gif
 
Jack

Once you get her sorted she will provide years of enjoyment.

Pat
 
Would you beleive I still don't have the clutch bleed properly. Wife is good at it though so will keep at it.
 
Jack - I hate to say it; however: are you certain the guy cleaned everything inside that engine - all the oil & water channels when he took it out of the tank? And, did he possiblydamage a bearing surface?
 
Tony, I checked real good my self. It was scrubed with soap then pressure air then oil. It is super clean. When I had the pan off the other day there was no specs even in the bottem.

Bearing surfaces were/are pristeen.

I am convenced it is overpressure from rings in number 3 yet. We will see when the breather part arrives first of the week I expect.

Off to the races in P'cola tomorrow a friend got his first ride in a big time car. Wheeee. I get to help crew.
 
Clutch is now blead, wow that was a pain this time.

Here is a tip.

My door latches were not working well so here is what I discovered did.

The plate part of the latch was bent in kind of a U shape from folks slaming the doors for 40 years, I flatened them so the pin latch is now closer to the hole in which it inserts. I also noted that where the arm stops against the pot metal it had actually worn into the metal so the pin was extended further than it should be. I put a small hose clamp around the arm and tightend well so now it stands proud and the pin does not stick out too long. Doors close much better.

Also noted that as I have vinyl on the insides of the doors they clang/are loud when they close. I will cover the insides with carpet or a layer of something under the vinyl to preclude this awful noise. As I remember the carpet trick works well.
 
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