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Professional troubleshooting for my 1098??

Luke_Healey

Jedi Trainee
Offline
Help me tune my 1098

OK, I'm at my wit's end with getting my Sprite running like it should. I've been through and through this car. Tonight's activity was to swap out the dashpot pistons and suction chambers with another set of carbs I had bought off of ebay. These other carbs use the spring loaded needles. I believe they are AAC needles. My old dashpots used AN needles.

Anyway, I got them in, tuned the car to a good mixture using my colortune tool (about 16 flats out in my case) and drove around. The car runs absolutely the same as it did with the AN needles and dashpots. I'm disappointed that it didn't run better or worse. Also, my car gets hot, even though the whole radiator is heating up evenly (meaning it's probably not plugged up anywhere and flowing liquid.)

I got my timing light out when I got home and checked timing. To me, it seems spot on. I've got my idle at about 1000rpm or lowre now. I'll post a diagram showing where the v notch in the crank pulley hits the timing tab when timing off of cylinder #1:

2657695514_cf32345634.jpg


Ignition gap at the breaker points is properly adjusted. The vacuum advance 'works' with suction of my mityvac. Moving my timing light pickup to all the plug wires, they're all firing on every hit. The engine isn't missing at all. The ignition coil and wires, cap, rotor, points, condenser are all new as of last summer.


Compression in the engine is a nice even 195psi per cylinder. The engine was rebuilt by the previous owner and bored .030 over. It doesn't knock and there is no sign of oil and coolant mixing after I've driven it well over 1000 miles. I've got a new 7 pound radiator cap on the radiator.

I'm trying to think of anything else.. The only goofy thing about the car that's not stock is the fuel pump. The previous owner bypassed the original SU pump and installed an electric pump that almost looks like a walbro fuel injection pump. HOwever, I measure fuel pressure at 4psi pretty constant up at the carbs, so it's obviously not a FI pump.

The carbs pass the 'spray carb cleaner on the throttle shafts' test. They don't leak air, at least not noticibly.

I don't know the condition of the float and needle adjustments in the bowls. I'm tempted to order some grose jets just for kicks since my last Sprite had em and ran like a raped ape.

This car gets pretty poor fuel economy at about 25mpg. That's with me driving it pretty hard. My other sprite was known to get 45-50mpg even when I was beating it.

So... If any of you pros have any possible places for me to focus my attention, I'd love to hear some theories :wink:

Obviously, my carb setup is not new, but I do finally have the jets centered and the carbs do adjust by the book, other than perhaps requiring to be turned out too many flats (16) to be set correctly. My distributor is original as well. I am thinking of going to electonic ignition eventually.
 
Fuel pressure should be 2.5 to 3 lbs.
 
Just tossing this out... have you confirmed with a timing light that the mechanical advance in the dizz is working properly?
 
I have not. I don't have a way to lay under the car and rev it up at the same time :wink:

It's a vacuum advance system run off of carb vacuum. Jack, I will recheck fuel pressure. My previous sprite was running off of one of those generic Purolator pumps like this and worked fine:

PUR-40104.jpg



The pump on my car now looks like this:

Electric_Fuel_Pump.jpg


And other than mine, I've never seen a pump like this that was NOT high pressure. So I have no idea where the previous owner got it.
 
So what isn't "right".. 25 mpg thrashing the car with a 4 speed and a 4.22 isn't all that bad. ..

IF you're carbs were "spilling" you would be smelling it. you can always get a (holley) fuel pressure regulator. that way you can run ANY fuel pump you can lay your hands on and not worry. ... helpful if you're a long way from home and the pump fails. just go to napa and pick up whatever's on the shelf!
 
Also, my plugs are nice and brown, so I'm not running hyper rich. There's no carbon on them at the moment.

The part that isn't right is the power delivery of the car. It can't turn the tires over from a stop on dry pavement.

You can see what I'm talking about on the first part of this recent video I made. The car just doesn't rap out nice and quickly and seems strangled to me compared to all of the other Sprites and Midgets I've ridden or driven.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upIV0o52uik

My old sprite was also a '66 and just ran so much harder and accellerated so much better. I have no proof that the old one wasn't hopped up, but I don't think it was. The main thing is that I don't want to keep throwing money at things that won't enhance this car's performance though. A fuel pressure regulator is a good idea in general though.
 
seems to run pretty good,
but i know what u mean about
missing the ummmph, mine
feels kinda restricted too .....z
 
I have no idea about the cam timing or what cam is in it. He told me he thought it had a stock grind cam in it. And I haven't ever torn off the timing cover to inspect things to see if it's installed correctly. Is there an easy way to verify proper cam timing?
 
Pumps that look the same may have different model numbers and different fuel pressures. Don't just look, research the model number on the web.
 
Here is another video that illustrates some of my frustrations. My old Sprite would bark fire and breathed healthy when I'd shift from 3rd into 4th gear.

Right at the one minute mark, I shift out of third gear into 4th and it just sort of feels like wind goes out of the sails.

Then I start driving in circles in a parking lot and at about 1:57 you can hear my car stall out a bit as I'm cornering. I don't think it should do that. Is it a sign of fuel starvation, or what?

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The car is OK to cruise around town, but I feel that it'd fall flat on its face on an autocross course, when it really should be acceptible in stock form.
 
You may wish to check float levels if you think you have a bit of fuel starvation. However. sounds preaty darn good otherwise.
 
It's not so much the sound that bothers me, but the given speed I'm traveling (or lack of) haha.

I wish I had access to a dyno, so I could confirm my suspicions about the car being restricted in some way. I just know how other stock sprites and midgets I've been in seem to rev much more freely and put out more power.
 
Kind of depends what's in the engine and its condition.

Are the valves adjusted properly?
 
I've got the valves to spec. It doesn't tick at all either. Compression is good. No leaks or breeches of oil/coolant.

I think that verifying cam timing is important, but perhaps a nuisance. I can advance the heck out of the timing as far as I can turn the distributor and it never pings it seems.

And I need to check the advance on the ignition. If it has an air leak in the diaphragm, it could totally be causing what I'm feeling on the open road.

Flooding/starving is something I should really verify as well since I've never measured the floats in this car.
 
You can check to see if the vacuum advance works at idle just by taking the hose loose from the carb and sucking on it. The question I had earlier is whether or not the mechanical advance in the dizz is working. All of these Spridgets have mechanical advance, right? Are there any 948s or something running without it? Anyways, it would be useful to borrow a spouse or long-legged child to help with the throttle and see what the mechanical advance is doing when reved from idle to about 3500. I need to do this myself.

I am interested in this thread as I also have fuel mileage that is in the low 20s yet the car seems to run OK.
 
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