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Procedure to store engine
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TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Lots of suggestions on that topic, you'll go crazy if you try to follow them all! Here's mine (worth at least what it costs)
If the oil is not fresh, change it. No sense leaving old oil in there to form varnish and so on.
Remove the spark plugs and dose each cylinder with oil. Ordinary motor oil will do, but "fogging" oil (available at most marine supply stores) is even better. Spin the engine with the starter (plugs still out) to spread the oil around, then dose it again for good measure. Reinstall the plugs loosely (just a few turns by hand) and leave the wires off.
Optionally, plug or tape all the openings, like intakes, exhaust, etc. Just a clean shop rag stuffed into the hole will do; or tape a baggie over the air filters if they are on the engine.
If there is a lot of dirt in the area, throwing a plastic sheet or some old towels over the top is probably a good idea, just to keep it cleaner.
When you go to fire it up, remove the plugs and spin it with the starter until the oil pressure comes up. That will help clean any excess oil out of the cylinders, plus get the bottom end all lubed up.
If the oil is not fresh, change it. No sense leaving old oil in there to form varnish and so on.
Remove the spark plugs and dose each cylinder with oil. Ordinary motor oil will do, but "fogging" oil (available at most marine supply stores) is even better. Spin the engine with the starter (plugs still out) to spread the oil around, then dose it again for good measure. Reinstall the plugs loosely (just a few turns by hand) and leave the wires off.
Optionally, plug or tape all the openings, like intakes, exhaust, etc. Just a clean shop rag stuffed into the hole will do; or tape a baggie over the air filters if they are on the engine.
If there is a lot of dirt in the area, throwing a plastic sheet or some old towels over the top is probably a good idea, just to keep it cleaner.
When you go to fire it up, remove the plugs and spin it with the starter until the oil pressure comes up. That will help clean any excess oil out of the cylinders, plus get the bottom end all lubed up.
TR6oldtimer
Darth Vader
Offline
The original TR6 engine I was going to rebuild was stored under my work bench for nearly 20 years with no special preparation. When I started to tear it down, I could turn it over by hand. Internally, all the surfaces were well coated with the years of slug build up while the engine was in service.
So as has been previously mentioned, squirt some oil in the cylinders, drain the carbs, and keep it in a dry environment and it will be fine.
So as has been previously mentioned, squirt some oil in the cylinders, drain the carbs, and keep it in a dry environment and it will be fine.
I stored mine outside more or less covered for 20 plus years. What I did was buy a few very larg pails of cheap oil, and filled the engine. I mean filled it, I plugged the hole where the dipstick goes, and just poured the oil in unitill it would take no more. I also "fogged" the chambers as described above before pouring the oil in. After all those years I rebuilt the engine and it was fine. I am sure there are simpler ways to store it though.
Don Elliott
Obi Wan
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A TR owner in Toronto paid a shop over $4000,00 to improve the engine in his TR3A, The day after gettting it back, he was on the 401 when he got plowed sideways by a tractor trailer. The TR was pushed sideways like it was a snow-plow on the front bumper. The driver suffered only a broken leg and his ankle. The front bumper of the semi was pushing him on the driver's side. Then the car sat in his garden under a tarp for over three years - winter and summer - snow, rain, humidity, etc.
I restored the car over the next 7 years finishing in 2006 but he told me he didn't want anything done to the engine. Compression read very, very, low. But when it came time to start it, it ran fine. After it wearmed up, the compression was 155 psi on all cylinders. The photo shows the final result after a new frame and a total body-off restoration.
Hey ! Think about it ! These motors are tractor motors.
I restored the car over the next 7 years finishing in 2006 but he told me he didn't want anything done to the engine. Compression read very, very, low. But when it came time to start it, it ran fine. After it wearmed up, the compression was 155 psi on all cylinders. The photo shows the final result after a new frame and a total body-off restoration.
Hey ! Think about it ! These motors are tractor motors.
