• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Problems with my car :S

Share this page

G

Guest

Guest
Guest
Offline
Hi all,

I recently bought a MGB 1964. Completely restored and revised but never really "finished". Engine looks really good and a lot of parts have been replaced but suddenly I started to get problems today. It had been parked for one week and when I tried to start it it wouldn't. I heard a ticking nice at the right back (fuel pump) and thought my petrol could have ran out. Bought a 5 liter tank at the petrol station and the car started again.

I then drove to a friend who is an expert on Citroen and has his own garage. We put the car on a bench (I don't know the name but I could stand under it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif) and we saw some petrol leaking from the fuel pump and the petrol measurement sensor at the petrol tank.

It was not too bad but of course not good either.

Furthermore the engine was not running too smoothly and there was a filter at one of the petrol hoses (at the back of the front /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif) which showed the petrol was not pumped very smoothly and consistently through.

The fuel pump then also suddenly stopped working. We unscrewed the fuel pump, readjusted it, and it worked again. It did not seem to leak anymore either.

Furthermore we adjusted the carburators a bit so it would better run stationary (which did not really work before).

Then we lowered the bench again and I drove off but halfway the engine stopped and would not start anymore. We pushed it back horizontal and after a few attempts the engine started again and we drove the car outside.

There it was temporarily switched off and .. would not start again. 3 guys looking at my engine to figure out what was going wrong. There seemed to be inconstent power from the battery or something (it even looked flat at one point). So we used some kind of machine to charge it a bit and the engine started again. When measuring the voltage however the dynamo seemed to be working without a problem.

After a while we decided to take the chance and drive back home but on the way home to engine did not sound too good (not smooth at all) and the engine stopped two times at a traffic light. The battery seemed to be flat and we had to push the car to get it working again.

After I had parked it at home for a while it started perfectly fine again (first attempt) and the battery seems to have no problems. The fuelpump I can hear however some times (while running stationary) and it then makes a clicking noise. The engine furthermore makes an awefull high pitched sound right in front at the rotating blade.

Hmm long story :S Any good advices? I have to apologise for my English. I am completely new to cars (although I try to read a lot now) and the Dutch terms are already difficult enough /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif If you need any clarification on some points please ask!
 
You need to go at this with in a systematic way.

First thing would be to install new points and condenser. Verify that your distributor cap contacts and rotor end are bright with no burnt tips. The coil may or may not be an issue. Often they will break down and not function after getting hot, then work again after cooling.

You may have a problem with your fuel pump. Depending upon the type of pump, it may have points in it that stick at random times. If it has the points, open it up and file them a bit.

Valve tappet adjustment is also something to check into.

The last thing that may be an issue is the carburetor. You may have either one or two. This could be either way depending upon what the earlier owners may have done. The Weber conversion is popular over here in the US.

After resolving the running, you can then check into the charging issue.

Good Luck, and look at your car only one thing at a time.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/patriot.gif
 
"The fuelpump I can hear however some times (while running stationary) and it then makes a clicking noise. The engine furthermore makes an awefull high pitched sound right in front at the rotating blade."

Fuel pumps on these cars do make noise. They "click" until full and sometimes continue to do so no matter what.

Make sure the fuel filter is clean or replace it is better.

As far as that high picthed noise, I assume you mean by the fan? It could be the water pump but more likely a lose fan belt.

Also check voltage regulator and battery itself could be bad. Make sure battery cables are good,making good contact at both ends and all grounds are good.

And for whatever it is worth the bench you talk about is a lift or car lift. Sorry but even though I live on a Dutch island I still don't speak it.
 
Ok just to get focussed on this fuel pump for a second. It actually is a new one so I can hardly believe it is damaged. It works with an electronic magenette that pulls a membrane (rumber disc) inside and then a spring pushes it back. When you do this quickly it goes in and out at a high speed.

The tank is new and we put high presure in it when we removed the fuel pump so that should be fine.

Is it then still normal for the full pump to sound "empty" a lot of the time when making such a clicking noise? Or is that just normal for MGBs and does it only transport really small amounts of petrol?

Battery and connections all are new as well. I'll try to systematically go over everything and just bought a multimeter myself at home but I still need to figure out how to use such a thing properly /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Thanks for the help so far and I'll definately get back with more questions. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
It's possible that there is an airleak into the fuel line upstream of the pump, this often causes a pump to do strange things.

GavinR /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/england.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/canpatriot.GIF
 
Ok good suggestion. Another thing I just noticed which may or may not mean something ..

When the car is started it does clearly not run smoothly and I have to play around with my gas. Then suddenly it is smoothly and works fine. As soon as the rpm drops (below 5.000) the ignition light gradually goes on and the engine is not running smoothly anymore and making bad sounds (hehe how to write down a sound /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif hung, 1 sec, hung, 0.5 sec, hung 0.8 sec etc. I think you get the point)

Any use to this information?
 
[ QUOTE ]
Ok good suggestion. Another thing I just noticed which may or may not mean something ..

As soon as the rpm drops (below 5.000) the ignition light gradually goes...

[/ QUOTE ]

You do mean below 5000(five thousand) rpm and not 500 rpm ? If you mean 5000 something is wrong but below 500 this is probably correct. The idle is too slow.

I would imagine the fuel pump is OK but never assume something new must be working correctly.
 
It is indeed 500. Apologies /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
To give you guys an update .. another friend of mine had a look today. Suddenly my engine was leaking loads of petrol when the ignition was turned on.

Actually we removed a filter Yesterday located before the carburators cause we thought it would be blocking the petrol. Now when I turn the ignition on it starts leaking petrol from the two cylinders right next to the carburators releasing all the petrol that was "too much". There was no hose connected redirecting this petrol somewhere back!

I mean two cylinders with some floating thing in it that opens up a small canal when there is too much petrol in it. Understand what I mean?

Can anyone explain me where such a hose would go to? Do I have to make something all the way back to the tank? Or is there an easier solution?

Furthermore the vacuum of the overdrive is not connected to anything. This was not a real problem since it just meant I had to turn the overdrive on and off manually (which worked fine) but the friend was wondering if the in/output on the carburator shouldn't be "closed" with something.

Tomorrow I'll call a local garage to get a quote on the pricing of fixing this but if you guys can give me some advice beforehand that would be highly appreciated.

I did just receive a notice from Amazon that my MGB books have been sent so in a few days they'll arrive for some help /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
The Cylinders you are refering to are the float bowls and on a '64 B the overflow should run down two pipes down the side of the engine and straight onto the ground. It doesn't go back to the tank.

It sounds like one or more of a few problems. An incorrect fuel pump overpressuring the needle valves. It could be the 'filter' you removed to is a pressure regulator to stop this happening. It could be that the neddle valves are worn and need replacing. It could be that removing the filter has dislodged some crap in the line and this is jamming the needle valves. The other thing you may like to check whilst you're at it is that the tank is venting OK. This won't cause the leak but may help with the rough running problem.

GavinR /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/england.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/canpatriot.GIF
 
Ok that makes me doubt again to go to a professional garage. I am sure I am able to connect two hoses going straight down there /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

I'll try putting back the "filter" and see if that solves the overpressure.

Do you know if the overdrive vacuum not being connected (on top of the carburator there seems to be an in/output for it) could cause any trouble?
 
I just checked the filter and it's a fram G4164. Seems to be a plain filter. It was connected above the level of the carburator part with the needles (is that called the needle valve?). Maybe that way it did regulate it a bit? I'll try to connect it and see how the fuel is flowing through the filter and if that's also getting high pressure now.
 
To give yet another update ..

I just bought a new filter and put it back in. I first started the ignition and heard the fuel pump. Then I started my engine and that went smoothly. However after around 15 seconds the float bowls start overflowing again. Then after a while it stopped overflowing but my engine stopped after around 30 sec as well and I could not start (only temporary but that made bad noise). When I looked at the filter I saw it was empty! I waited for a few secs and initiated the ignition and again it started filling. And overflowing.

So it seems indeed to be pressure related. How does this regulation work exactly? At what point this the fuel pump "know" it has to start pumping. Is this something electronically? Or does it always pump "blind"? I can hardly believe that since the flow of fuel should be controlled quite well?

Any help is again highly appreciated /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Hard to believe if it is the correct fuel pump you are getting too much pressure. I lean towards carb problems and maybe a rebuild would be in order. Certainly would not hurt. Other option is a fuel regulator but I would still go over the carbs first.
 
It sounds like you have either a bad connection to the pump which maybe at the pump or could be anywhere in the wiring, or you have a faulty pump which is why it's not always pumping up. The other problem is almost certainly that the needle valves are not working correctly, either crap stuck in them, they're worn, badly adjusted or the floats are leaking. This is assuming that the pump you have is not delivering too much pressure, 3.5psi.

GavinR /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/england.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/canpatriot.GIF
 
Hey guys,

I just fixed the overflow problem. After a lot of reading and finally receiving some manuals I decided to simply check the float mechanisme. It all seemed to work perfectly fine but just in case I bend it a little to be more sensitive. I could visably not notice any difference but my car seems to run smoothly now! Couldn't drive cause I had drinken a beer already (have to be strickt with that) but tomorrow I'll give it a try. I doubt this will solve all my problems but it's already good if I can drive it to a professional now /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Thanks for the great advices!
 
if you bent the floats, then you've changed their level which can either make the carb run richer or leaner depending on how you did it. From what you described about the overflow, it could very well be a sticky float mechanism, allowing too much fuel to flow into the bowl. If it's working good don't mess with it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif, but if it gives you problems again, I'd look into a carb rebuild.
 
Sounds like a problem my friend had with his TR6. Check to make sure the alternator is working well. If the power is inconsistent, and it wants to stall at any RPM lower than about 3000-4000, and you have trouble starting it sometimes, it could be the alternator.
 
Your english is far superior to my Dutch!

First, I would not worry about the fuel filter too much. Put a new one on and be happy. They DO NOT fill with fuel (in fact, they often appear to be empty when operating just fine).
Second, Replace the needle valves (above the floats) and make certain they are on good and tight. Then make sure the float level is correct and the floats do not have any fuel in them (shake next to ear). Your problem sounds suspiciously like one I had. After stopping dead by the side of the road (on a mountain pass, no less) I saw the fuel pouring out of the overflow tubes (don't connect those back to the tank, by the bye). Turned out one of my needle valve seats had vibrated loose causing a lean condition (poor running) until it fell out and the resultant rich condition killed the motor (and lack of fuel pressure to other carb). Replacing it solved the problem.

Next, I would give the old girl a COMPLETE tune-up, New points, condenser, wires, plugs, filter, oil, and all the appropriate adjustments. Top to bottom.

If is still runs poorly after that, then AND ONLY THEN start chasing bugbears. Otherwise you could drive yourself nuts and never find the real problem.

Oh, one other thing, do you trust the person who sold you the car? REALLY trust? It is possible that something or several somethings are out of whack and it was "adjusted" until it ran well enough to sell. Often a friendly chat and bought beers will soften up a PO so that he will spill the nasty little details (especially if you let him/her know you won't punch 'em out!).

Good luck,

Mike!
 
Back
Top