problems installing 1275/rivergate/datsun in BE

[JPSmit]

Haynes says 70 lbs - and FWIW Hap Waldrop who build race engines doesn't use the lock tabs at all any more - preferring lock tite - so you should be fine!

 

[twas_brillig]

JP: thanks for the torque confirmation (and the Loctite confirm as well)
Another /$%?&* learning experience: I`ve had the kit and transmission for at least five years, and there`s been three of us at various times working on getting this thing together over the last six weeks or so. In other words: stuff has disappeared, and things missed that we should have done.
First time we went to put it in, I noticed (as we were lowering) that the top transmission rib hadn`t been trimmed, for example. But I erred further by not sitting down and reading right through the manual to ensure that we hadn`t missed anything. So, I think that this is the sixth or seventh time and we`ve got it installed and the crankshaft pulley-dampner back on etc etc., and discovered that I`d obviously never replaced the rear transmission seal nor removed the `shield`around it, as it is preventing us from getting the transmission high enough to slide the mounting plate underneath. The sawzall took care of enough of the `shield`(and then you get to clear the metal chips out, etc. etc.). Couldn`t find the kit`s mounting bolts and hadn`t confirmed the thread count nor diameter before installing, but fed a short bolt down from above to confirm our best guess. Then the bolts I`d sourced wouldn`t bite, so ran them through a die and cleaned up some subtle thread damage on the ends and they`re in. Now to get motor mounts etc etc. in place, and then finish assembly. An amazing circus. And hopefully there won`t be any further surprises nor learning experiences. Doug

 

[abarth69]

Doug

The fit is very tight above the heater box my Innocenti C even had less room so I had to cut out a section of the trans to get it to fit .

Cheers

Mark

 

[twas_brillig]

If taking the cranshaft pulley off and reinstalling in place hadn't worked, then we would have been taking your approach. Thanks for the photo! DOug

 

[Bugeye15]

Wish I had seen this sooner. For anyones future reference.

The easiest way to do this install without having to cut anything or bash the heater box.
Learned from Frank and Kevin V who have done a few of these swaps.
Split the engine and trans. I know it's easier to install a ribcase attached, but not a 5 speed.

Having and engine hoist with a tilt on it is almost a necessity.
It will still take a little finagling, but it can be done.
Remember to leave one motor mount attached to engine and one to the chassis.

Here is what I found in my Spridgetlist saved mail from Frank.

> Time to get serious about putting the Datsun 5-speed into the bug-eye. I
> assume I need to remove the bonnet and radiator. Any other tips?

Radiator, yes, bonnet, no.
Removing the bonnet on a Bugeye is a real PITA.
If you have a floor jack, raise the bonnet, remove the radiator, remove
the oil filter from the block and the dizzy from the block.
You have to take the carbs off either way but unbolt them from the engine
and leave them along with all their cables connected and just set them
on the inner fender. Makes for a much easier replacement.
Drain the tranny, undo the speedo cable, remove the ground strap.
Remove the exhaust strap if it's still there, make sure you remove the
ground strap, undo the motor mount bolts, unplug the wires from the
genny and dizzy, double check that you undid the ground strap.
Undo the slave cyl since you won't use it with the 5 speed.
Jack up the engine with a floor jack, slide it over the steering rack.
Have someone balance it on the rack, move the jack out front and catch
the engine on the jack. Roll it where ever you want while on the jack.
You can install the 5 speed with the bonnet on. I just did it.
Stick the 5 speed in the hole, use the jack to make the dimple in the
heater box. Just jack up the tranny and it will make it's own dimple.
Now slide the engine back in the same way with the jack. The last 1/2
inch is a bit close but it works.
Keep the tranny unbolted so you can play with it a bit while the engine
goes in. A support to hold up the front of the tranny is needed too.
(block of wood or short jack stand)
One note is to stick the top bolts in the bellhousing BEFORE the engine
goes in, not enough room to get to them once the engine/trans are in
place. Yes bolting the engine/trans together is a slight pain but not
nearly as much as trying to bolt on a bonnet.



--
Frank Clarici
Toms River, NJ
Brian S.
Bugeyeracr resto'd with help from Frank C.
Pay it forward!

 

[twas_brillig]

Hmmm - did anyone say that it's tight? We got it in a couple of weeks back after removing the crankshaft pulley and reinstalling the pulley after install. I didn't do it, so can't claim credit for getting the key in and lined up. The lad that did pulled the engine/trans back out had to taking the timing chain cover off to get the key, etc. etc. But he did a lot better job than I did, the last time I was struggling with the pulley/key combo.
The shop that cleaned up my transmission install on our 948 cc Yellow BE took the oil pan off the engine to get clearance to reinstall it. Doug