TR2/3/3A primmer as I go

[sp53]

Because sand blasting the engine bay on this tr3 is going some time, do you guys think it would acceptable to use a rattle can of self-etching primer and just primmer as I go? For example, if I do the pedal area and perhaps a foot around that area, and then spray the primmer.

 

[PatGalvin]

I think that would be fine. But remember, most primers are somewhat porous and so you can get metal rust under the primer, after a while. Epoxy primer is one exception to this. The self etching primers can be very nice but not all paints can be painted over them, so you should think about what is to be painted over the self etching product and make sure you have compatibility with your next coat. I don't think all body fillers can be placed over self-etching primer. Be sure you don't find yourself in a situation where you have to sand it all off later. That would be a drag.

If you are going to sand and paint later, you could even mix up small batches of epoxy primer (pot life is a few days, typically) and just paint it on with a paint brush. Then, easy to sand and place filler or other primer later.

Pat

 

[CJD]

Where you live the humidity is so high I think your idea is prudent. I have gotten spoiled here in Texas, as I can blast a part and let it sit for a year untouched without getting a hint of rust. I grew up in New Orleans, and bare steel would show rust in a couple hours down there!

 

[sp53]

Well I bought the black epoxy primmer over the rattle can. I perhaps should have gotten white because I plan on painting the car powder blue. They were not giving the primmer away and I paid 115.00 for I think a quart once the 2 are mixed together. I did not get the reducer and again maybe I should have. The guy said it mixed 50/50. Those Husky paint guns I bought at Home Depot might work for that, but again I am learning. The kit came with 2 guns and 4 canisters for paint, 2small and 2large. What would be a good air setting to use if I try those guns and what would be a good way to get a ball part setting on the gun so I do not waste a bunch of this primmer. Can I get an idea by just spraying some lacquer thinner out of the gun? Maybe 25 psi?

I have not started blasting yet and we are having some good weather so the bare metal should be fine for a while.

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Did your guns come with some literature? You should see the requirements in there. What size are the fluid tips on the guns you have? For epoxy, I usually need about a 1.8 tip...

You should also have received a tech sheet with your primer or you should be able to go online and look it up. This is very important to read.

Cheers
Tush

 

[PatGalvin]

Like Tush said, the paint product info sheets typically tell you what spray orifice (tip size) is needed for your paint. The two-part epoxy primers that I've used are typically sprayed through about a 1.3 to 1.4 tip. For HVLP guns. And typical pressures for HVLP guns are as low as 22 psi and as high as 29 psi. Your gun literature should tell you that. Remember, you set your pressure with the gun trigger pulled.

Most epoxy paints are ready to shoot and need not be reduced. I reduce epoxy only when I'm using it as a sealer, before basecoat spraying.

I've been buying primer from either Southern Polyurethanes or a Kirker primer. The Kirker is easier to shoot and dries fairly quickly. It is called Enduro Prime. It comes in a two gallon kit (one gallon epoxy and one gallon catalyst) for a cost of about $55 per sprayable gallon or quart sizes with a cost of about $22 per sprayable quart (plus shipping). You must have bought some pretty good stuff for the cost you quoted.

https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/enduro-prime-c-1442.aspx

 

[dklawson]

I agree with the others above regarding using epoxy primers vs. etch primers in high-humidity. There are days here where condensation coats every surface of my garage. Those are the days I refuse to work in the garage... and the reason I like epoxy primers.

For recent projects I have used the epoxy primers and urethane paints from TCP Global. I have had good results from them and found them to be affordable... except for the cross-country shipping charges. I don't remember the prices being as good as Pat mentioned above but TCP was much less expensive than locally sourced similar products from PPG.

 

[sp53]

I was sandblasting for about 7 hrs yesterday, oh what fun, so I am slow on the rebound. The paint brand is NorthStar and it did come with some literature, I have not had a chance to read it yet. The paint shop I got the stuff from (LDI) has been in business for a long time, so I bought from them in hopes they would want me to come back. Setting a datum point with the first purchase is something I just do sometimes when the choices appear fair. It gets me started and forces my hand because I have now spent some money, and I have learn the hard way about spending money and then doing nothing. Anyways, I appreciate the feedback because I am shooting the dark. I will look closer at those Husky paint guns I got from HD and try and see if one of them will work if not, it looks like the Devilbliss comes with different tips and I plan on getting one soon.

The summers around here are truly beautiful and the humidity is not bad. I have been to the East coast in summer and found that unbearable. The oxidation here is not as bad as many think. We do have rain all the time in winter, spring, and fall, but if the metal is kept inside the rust is not too bad. Perhaps that might the reason all those Lemay cars lasted plus we do not salt the roads around here. I knew about that Lemay collection when I was a kid in Sixties. The word was out this guy had all these old cars ditched out around the Tacoma area in old barns that he did not even know how much or what he had.

I should be able to sandblast larger areas than I first thought. I was just intimated by all the sand blasting and the work on this project. I heard Marv comment once that he cut a tr3 in half and would never do that again; I hear you Marv.