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Priming a fuel pump????

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Nunyas,

Ergo, the new fuel pump...

With all of this huffin' and a puffin' and sucking, and blowing, turnin' and a tweekin', I decided that a new pump was in order.... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif

As I stated in another post, different topic, by the time I am finished buying new parts for my A, It will be a car manufactured by MOSS!!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rolleyes.gif
 
I hope your fix works, good luck. Just fyi, I recently installed a solid state SU fuel pump on my Healey along with new fuel lines and it clicked away (and wouldn't stop clicking) even though the tank was nearly full. I tried everything (but admittedly not the huffing/pressurization technique above...) but no luck, just clicks. Finally I remembered the priming needed with the fuel pumps of other cars, tried it on the new SU pump, and voila the ticking stopped and the car fired up immediately. That was several months ago and it's still going strong. I think it has something to do with the pressurization created by the pull/push of fuel by the pump, ie if the lines are empty the pump may just cavitate. Not passing myself off as an expert, it was just my experience. Thought I'd mention it, your problem may be different. Again, good luck!
 
62BT7,

The BT7 is a very nice car... by the way. On my 'I want it' list... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/driving.gif

I have been thinking about this whole fuel system issue... (I really need to get a life).. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rolleyes.gif

It makes a great deal of sense that there must be a need for a fluid in the chamber and the lines up to the pump in order for it to work... The pump moves little 'chunks' of fluid through a closed system. It is not designed to move AIR and therefore can not create enough of a vacuum to 'pull' the fluid (gas) into the line if the line is empty on the input side. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/square.gif

Soooo, just waxing philosophic, examining the chamber and the diaphram only shows me that it NEEDS fluid in order to function.... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/square.gif

Thanks again everyone... I still think that a little huffin and puffin will be in order...

I will let you know if I get a cease and desist order from my neighbors... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif
 
Ron,
You might try the priming idea if you have the interest/time: Make sure you have lots of gas in the tank. Get a small funnel and a jar full of good gas(ie recently purchased premium, you may want to mix in the lead stuff...). Open each line into/out of the pump and pour in fuel until completely full, then quickly reattach to the pump to keep spillage to a minimum. Tighten your clamps. Do the usual cold start stuff if needed (a few pre-start pumps on the accelerator, adjust choke) and see if she starts. Good luck!
 
"by the time I am finished buying new parts for my A, It will be a car manufactured by MOSS!!!" One really has to hand it to the people in Abingdon, they could sell a car for $2000 that was built with $250,000 worth of Moss parts /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
Cheers,
 
umm... 62BT7... "a few pre-start pumps on the accelerator" ?!?

Por qua? SU's are missing the bits to make that anything but right foot exercise.

Butterfly wave?
 
It works if you have a ZS with a properly operating auto-choke mechanism. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

But for the SU, all I gotta do is pull the choke cable out about 1" and turn the key. 90% of the time the engine will be running before the engine makes 1 full revolution /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 
YUP!

No "squirters" in an SU. All it needs is a bit of choke and yer OFF!
 
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