• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Primer vs. Primer

KLUTZ

Luke Skywalker
Country flag
Offline
I stripped the rear of the GT, including the rear valance of all the old paint and primer, right down to bare metal, and also above the trim line on the rear fender. I am getting a new replacement panel for the fender and I wanted to make sure there was not filler there, as well as to be able to repair damage on the rear. I need a primer to spray on the bare metal while I am doing the long process of rebuilding the rest of it before thinking about paint.
What is the diferance between etching primer, and other primers? A thread I read here mentioned etching primer for such a job as this. Also, what should I clean the bare metal with before applying the primer?

Thanks

Paul
 
Oh, so NOW we get serious?

DuPont VariPrime is what I've used in the past, dunno if there's a "better" etching primer out there currently. A primer for the J-O-B that I will HIGHLY recommend is Valspar's VP-50 epoxy primer: it even sticks to galvanized materials (with proper surface prep). Just be HIGHLY aware of the health hazards. The stuff is the "magic bullet" for filler/primers. As for the surface cleaners, Metal Prep, or even lacquer thinner on a non-linting rag are good enough if you're not allowing the steel to sit exposed for long.
 
For long-term projects your best bets are probably epoxy (first choice) followed by etch primer. The epoxy is almost impervious to water so long term storage of a primed car is almost as good as having a top coat on there. The etch primer is much better than regular high-build primer for protecting and bonding to the bare metal but it's my understanding that moisture can still slowly work its way through. However, the epoxy will be quite a bit more expensive. If your environment is generally dry you'll be fine with etch primer. Down here, epoxy is a better choice due to the high humidity during Spring and Summer.

When you choose either of these primers, do so AFTER you've chosen your top coat. You should choose a primer that is 100% compatible with the high-build primers and top coats to follow. The best way to insure compatibility is to select all the paints from the same manufacturer. Your local paint supplier will help you select compatible products.
 
"Cheap " primer is not waterproof. The new panels will rust right through old style primer. Epoxy primer is probably water resistant but do not have any first hand knowledge. Bob
 
OK, so I have a basic idea where I am getting the car painted, so best I call them on Monday and get their recomendation, and opinions on paint types then, right?
Then I will pick the appripriate primer.

Thanks
 
EEeeewwwww.... That's just EVIL, Jeff.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Cosmoline, Paul, Cosmoline.
Jeff

[/ QUOTE ]

"EEeeewwwww.... That's just EVIL, Jeff"


Is that the name of someone else I should be getting to do all the bodywork? Where is he and how much?
I can take a hint. Time to give up, right. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif


Thanks Jeff and Doc.
 
Hey Paul, I was merely suggesting a good product to prevent any rust.
I think your idea of contacting the painter is a very good plan. No sense in laying down primer that won't be compatible with the rest of the paint, and then going through the hassle of stripping it back off.
Jeff
 
[ QUOTE ]
Hey Paul, I was merely suggesting a good product to prevent any rust.

Jeff

[/ QUOTE ]


I knew THAT jeff. JUST wondering WHAT made IT so EVIL?

Paul
 
Cosmoline smells, is about as gooey as owl excretia, PITA to clean off... go check with the body shop guys and save yourself some grief.

I suspect epoxy primer'd be the way to go, anyhoo.
 
[ QUOTE ]
is about as gooey as owl excretia

[/ QUOTE ]



OH, so it would be perfect to use on Hooters ! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
In a ~twisted~ kinky sorta way that has some appeal, actually /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif
 
Primer.....some of the rattle can primers are not "hot" enough for paint that a body shop uses...ask about that also
 
[ QUOTE ]
Primer.....some of the rattle can primers are not "hot" enough for paint that a body shop uses...ask about that also

[/ QUOTE ]


Will do.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 
Sherwin Williams Etching primer is the product they told me to buy. They are Emailing me with a list of stores and the correct number to purchase. They said I will still need two layers of another primer before paint too. I told them they would be doing that when I bring it in. He told me the etching primer only, would be fine until that time.
 
Back
Top