Preparing for the "Big One"

[SaxMan]

As I've been going through Baby Blue from top to bottom, I know at some point the engine is going to have to be rebuilt. I'm hoping I can get another two driving seasons after this one before I finally bite the bullet, but that may depend on where I stand on my oil consumption and compression. Right now, the oil consumption is around 250 - 300 per quart, sometimes as much as 200 miles per quart, and the compression is showing borderline moderate loss on the leakdown tests last winter. The car still runs fairly strong and the motor runs smoothly despite these ominous warning signs. I think I'm losing more from a leaking pan gasket and main seal than what is burning out the tailpipe, but I'm definitely burning oil.

My original thought was that when I did a rebuild, I'd really go through the car top to bottom. While the car was off the road, I'd pick up something, such as a Miata, or perhaps another LBC to drive while this car underwent a full on restoration. The more I get to know this car, the more I think this car will always be a driver's car and not a concourse car and a full restoration is probably not the wisest choice for it, at least at this point in time.

I then realized that if I was going to spend money on a temporary car, I'd probably be better off purchasing a replacement engine / transmission combination, do the engine / tranny swap and then rebuild the original motor at my own leisure (Or use it the mother of all paperweights). The car would be off the road for far less time. If I go this route, where do you think I would have to be budget-wise? I don't need to worry about labor for the install, just getting another 1275/ribcase combo. I figure I might as well start putting away my shekels now. I don't need to do anything fancy. A stock 1275 would work just fine, although I wouldn't rule out one with a mild build either.

I already have a second ribcase tranny out of a '67 Sprite. It does need a rebuild. Technically, I could get this tranny rebuilt and then pickled while I await a 1275 transplant, which could save me a couple of bucks.

 

[HealeyRick]

My thoughts. Build a nice 1275 with a Datsun 5 speed. When you're done, swap it out for your stock drivetrain and you'll be really happy,

 

[drooartz]

I'm facing this same situation with my MGB -- the engine is tired (marginal oil pressure) and really needs to be rebuilt. I've already got a spare block that I'm going to build for it and do the swap.

Sourcing a spare 1275 to rebuild and then swap in would definitely be a good choice. Keeps Baby Blue on the road longer. If your local contacts don't have a line on an engine, keep an eye on Craigslist for a rusty Spridget. They can often be found cheap, and you may be able to score some other spares at the same time. Strip what you need and scrap or resell the rest. When I did my first Bugeye, I found a '74 that I used for disc brakes, 3.90 rear end, engine transmission, and a few other bits and pieces. Sold off the body shell to someone else and it was a pretty cheap process.

I do like the Datsun 5-speeds (my Morris has one, and I have one to go into the Bugeye) but that's not a cheap option these days. 3.90 or 3.70 rear end and the ribcase 4-speed is still a nice option and saves a lot of coin.

I'd also avoid the full resto all at once if you can (unless that's what you really want to do). It takes lots of time, and will cost you far more than the car is worth. Far better to drive it and work on small projects as they come up -- unless you have serious rust issues to tackle. I'm a couple years into my Bugeye restoration, and likely have a couple more before I could be driving it.

 

[Billm]

Saxman
What oil are you running? I will bet that it is 10- (something) or so.
If you can find 20- (something) or 30- (something) you will lose less oil per mile and stretch the time before a rebuild is needed
If you can't find the thicker oil then putting a can of STP (or a knockoff) will also help with your oil consumption issue (and also boost your oil pressure a little bit)
BillM

 

[drooartz]

I don't need to do anything fancy. A stock 1275 would work just fine, although I wouldn't rule out one with a mild build either.

Here it will be useful to talk to someone like Hap at ACME Speed Shop. He will put a kit of parts together for you based on what you're trying to achieve, and his parts come with his assistance as well. There may be other builders that do something similar as well, I'm not sure.

Ultimately there will some things you need to replace anyways, so doing the "performance" version at that time will make sense.

This is the route I'll be taking with the MGB rebuild -- I want to build a stock-ish spare to swap in while I take the time to rebuild the original motor in the car. Don't want to do anything extreme, but I will do a few smart upgrades where spending the extra money makes sense.

 

[SaxMan]

I'm running 20w -50 in the Sprite currently. I tried the Lucas oil additive a couple years ago, but that so increased my oil pressure that seals started blowing everywhere, including the spin-on filter adapter.

Oil pressure really isn't the main issue. I still get very solid pressure. It never drops below 20 psi even when the engine is idling around 700 rpm on a hot humid day. Leakage is probably my biggest issue with the pan gasket more like a pan sieve and the rear main seal acting like an open drain plug. Compression is starting to fall off from worn rings. Still, the car pulls fairly well, so I think I can nurse it along for a bit longer. Also, by that time, I will likely have a facility available to me to do the engine swap with more room to work than my garage.

 

[SD Bugeye]

Any chance you can create more neg crankcase psi- vac ?
help keep oil on the rite of the seals.

 

[SaxMan]

Any chance you can create more neg crankcase psi- vac ?
help keep oil on the rite of the seals.

How would one do that? I did replace the vacuum lines and the oil breather lines, so I know I'm not losing any vacuum.