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Possible breakthrough on gauges and stabiliser

wkilleffer

Jedi Knight
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Hello everyone,

You may remember my earlier post about trouble with the Smiths temp gauge on my 1974 MGB, which lead to questions about the gauge voltage stabiliser.

Well, I might have a breakthrough. While looking under the dash and pulling the gauges out to make it easier to see, I took a look at all the wires running to the fuel, tach, and temp gauges. All colors were represented as in the wiring diagrams. Closer looks at the wiring revealed no cuts nor splices. That was a stumper, cause a wire like that can't just disappear, can it?

Turns out, those two wires (green and light green/green) were hooked to a turn signal flasher, along with a brown wire that came down from the turn signal switch. I unplugged the two greens, which left only the brown wire connected to the flasher. Imagine my surprise when the turn signals still worked, better than ever before. Sounds like they're working off the hazard flasher inside the console.

Now, is it safe to proceed with trying to plug the G and LGG wires to the stabiliser, and can I cut that brown wire loose? It has a jury-rigged look to it.

This is a real DPO thing. I don't want to ever get rid of my car. It was a wedding present and has sentimental value in addition to being fun and theraputic. But if I ever had to sell it, I would like to think that I left it in such a way that the next owner could enjoy it without having to fret over stuff like this. Rusty body work is one thing; crossed electrical wires are another.

This is very exciting. Even if the stabiliser is broken, at least I know I'm on the right track and can replace it in some way.

Thank you,
 
Brown is usually a power lead in BMC/Leylend speak. let it be until you know what else is happening... or disconnect it and see what ~doesn't~ work. Check it with the VO meter to see if'n it's "hot" too. the wiring diag. has the G and LG/G to the stabiliser, so try it. Just keep yer eyes 'n ears peeled for escaping smoke! It's HARD to outrun electrons, y'see. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
Brown is usually a power lead in BMC/Leylend speak. let it be until you know what else is happening... or disconnect it and see what ~doesn't~ work. Check it with the VO meter to see if'n it's "hot" too. the wiring diag. has the G and LG/G to the stabiliser, so try it. Just keep yer eyes 'n ears peeled for escaping smoke! It's HARD to outrun electrons, y'see. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

I plugged the g and lgg to the stabiliser, and it seems to be effective. The tach reads a little lower than it used to, and the temp gauge now reads just a hair to the right of the N once the car has warmed up. Gas gauge reads lower now too.

I haven't checked the brown wire for voltage, but having it unhooked hasn't made anything act strangely. There's no telling why someone decided that they needed a redundant turn signal circuit. Perhaps the problems that I once had with the hazard switch might have explained it. The turn signals now work better than they ever have. I'm not going to cut that wire off for now, but will take precautions to cover that wire up where it can't send electrons to places they shouldn't go.
 
The tach changed? It shouldn't have. The tach should be getting a full 12V from the wiring harness. It isn't fed from the stabilizer. If your tach is hooked to the output of the stabilizer, change it so it's powered by the "green" wire going INTO the stabilizer. The green wire should go to the "B" terminal on the stabilizer and the green wires with tracer color stripes go to the gauges (excluding the tach).

It sounds like you've made excellent progress. Trust the wiring diagram and work your way through the DPO's fixes, putting the car back to normal and you'll be very happy with the results.
 
[ QUOTE ]
The tach changed? It shouldn't have. The tach should be getting a full 12V from the wiring harness. It isn't fed from the stabilizer. If your tach is hooked to the output of the stabilizer, change it so it's powered by the "green" wire going INTO the stabilizer. The green wire should go to the "B" terminal on the stabilizer and the green wires with tracer color stripes go to the gauges (excluding the tach).

It sounds like you've made excellent progress. Trust the wiring diagram and work your way through the DPO's fixes, putting the car back to normal and you'll be very happy with the results.

[/ QUOTE ]

Chalk the tach reading up to wishful thinking and misinterpretation of the wiring diagram /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif
But the car did run differently after I made this change, and I had to raise the idle speed. It's now idling just below the 1000 RPM on the dash tach. I don't have the equipment to do a "proper" idle speed check, but am not worried as it's now running so well. I took it on a long drive, and there were no sputters or hesitations upon accellerating.

The gas gauge reads lower, which is kind of scary considering the fact that my last fuel stop put more than 10.2 gallons in the tank, and the gauge wasn't on empty yet. The temp gauge now reads slightly to the right of the N. Far from the danger zone.

Thank you,
 
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