Hey Guest!
Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
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smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
luke44
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Just to bring this thread full circle for those who may search later, I finally got everything working.
I moved the slave back onto the engine side of the mounting plate - the trans side mounting I'm pretty sure is for the TR2 Lockheed setup. Then after a full bleed, I selected the center hole for mounting the clevis instead of the bottom hole. That combination seemed to do the trick, albeit just barely, there is still a slight bit of fight mainly going into non syncro first.
I spoke to BPNW who make the extended throw slave. It's all about fluid displacement, so cutting rods etc really doesn't help you. They achieve the longer throw by going to a 7/8" dia bore,which moves the rod 30% further. So why would you ever need this I asked? He asked if I had a new pressure plate and clutch - yes. So the needed distance to disengage is at its greatest after all new parts. Then he asked if I'm using silicone fluid - yes. They believe silicone is more compressible than Dot 3-4, and hence needs a bit of a further throw. Add in the tolerance of all the repro parts today and there are enough variables that it may be right on the edge. All in all, it made sense to me. I'm going to order the longer throw slave - it's very quick to install so I'll know pretty quickly. As the car gets broken in, it should all come together. Thanks as always fro the great feedback. It's nice when your scratching your head and thinking your going crazy that there's a support group to lean on.
I moved the slave back onto the engine side of the mounting plate - the trans side mounting I'm pretty sure is for the TR2 Lockheed setup. Then after a full bleed, I selected the center hole for mounting the clevis instead of the bottom hole. That combination seemed to do the trick, albeit just barely, there is still a slight bit of fight mainly going into non syncro first.
I spoke to BPNW who make the extended throw slave. It's all about fluid displacement, so cutting rods etc really doesn't help you. They achieve the longer throw by going to a 7/8" dia bore,which moves the rod 30% further. So why would you ever need this I asked? He asked if I had a new pressure plate and clutch - yes. So the needed distance to disengage is at its greatest after all new parts. Then he asked if I'm using silicone fluid - yes. They believe silicone is more compressible than Dot 3-4, and hence needs a bit of a further throw. Add in the tolerance of all the repro parts today and there are enough variables that it may be right on the edge. All in all, it made sense to me. I'm going to order the longer throw slave - it's very quick to install so I'll know pretty quickly. As the car gets broken in, it should all come together. Thanks as always fro the great feedback. It's nice when your scratching your head and thinking your going crazy that there's a support group to lean on.