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Tips
Tips

TR4/4A Por 15

I'm a big yes. I feel I've protected my frame and underside for years to come. I spent weeks of nights sliding under my car for the prep work. That is the most important part. And don't get any on you. Follow all directions strictly. If you have business meetings coming up, don't get any POR 15 on your face or you'll lose an account for looking . . . Crazy.
 
Maybe.

I have used POR on multiple parts and in various location on different car bodies. There is a lot to read online so I won't repeat it here.

My personal experiences have been good but you MUST be aware that for good results you need to follow the instructions to the letter. Use their prep chemicals. Do not expect POR to adhere well to smooth, sound sheet metal. It needs a rough surface to adhere to. Therefore, sandblast or a brade and heavily acid etch smooth surfaces or the POR will peel off in sheets/strips. Also, research how you want to prime the POR for topcoating. They have probably made acceptable primers for it by now. 15 year ago their primers were not that good and your best option was to fog coat the 2nd coat of POR (with your topcoat's primer) before the POR was completely cured.

Don't think of POR as a primer to use under your car body's topcoat, think of it as a protective coating for problem areas on the car, areas that won't be seen that often.
 
It is fantastic ! I have used it for years. I keep a "six pack" of it on the shelf always. I also reccomend "POR PATCH"- it's a putty like version of POR15 that comes in a tube. It works well for smoothing out pitted surfaces. As already said, the prep work is very important. From my experience sandblasting works the best.
 
50% yes/no. Use it again? Probably not as I don't paint over rust usually. My experience on prepared surface is that it doesn't adhere well and peels off if it gets moisture under it.
 
50- 50 camp also. Very effective product, but an inch by inch inspection and appraisal of what you expect to accomplish and long term results desired is in order. I saw one spectacular failure after a few years on a daily driver 4, where a large part of the lower spot welded inner/ outer rocker assembly seam completely separated. post mortem guess was moisture getting into the seam and not out because of PORs impermeability. The end caps had been removed in this procedure for access to the interior of that box section. It looked to be a very thorough job initially. The other side rocker, by the way, was still hanging in there even though it started out looking worse.
 
I found that POR 15 works great. If it dries before you topcoat it I suggest roughing it up first. Otherwise the paint does not stick evenly.
Jerry
 
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