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Plug wires - anything of quality out there?

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bigjones

bigjones

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Just got a "high quality" set from BPNW for the 1500. I'm a bit disappointed - they have the straight rubber boot whereas the picture showed the (old fashioned?) right angle (plastic?) connector to the spark plugs.

The straight boots are fine if you plan on never taking them off - they stick to the plug and keep the moisture out. Even if you smear dielectric grease all over the plug and then turn the connector clockwise, anti-clockwise, they are a bear to get off. Usually resulting in the back of the hand contacting something sharp when they do let go. Once even tried using the special tool to pull the old leads off - all that done was to rip the metal connector off the wire.

Not sure whether to send the wires back. They are made by "Powertune" - anybody heard of them?

It would be nice to get to the same level of ignition tune up as on my Camry - there I replace dist cap, rotor, wires and plugs every 60k miles, whether they need it or not, ha!

In other words, I'm looking for a high quality set of wires, preferably with the right angle plastic boot that will last a fair while.

Any suggestions?

Cheers.

PS. I'm not ragging on BPNW - all parts I get from them are usually very good quality, as far as I can make out.
 
I go to Aircraft Spruce and buy the solid core wires and connectors and make up my own. The connectors for solid core wire are more like the old Lucas stuff.
Works great unless you have a radio.

You can also buy solid core wire and connectors at your local motorcycle shop (Harleys use them).

I have read that you are not supposed to use solid core wires with the Pertronix unit, but I've had this setup for almost 10 years......no problem.
 
Haven't had to build a set of wires in quite a while, but this is what I like to do. Go down to my local parts place (in this case A****ce, since its close and I work at the plant with the managers brother) and get them to pull some sets off the wall and let me take them out of the box and look at them. Usually some kind of V8 set that has the right sparkplug end I'm looking for, wire diameter and "Feel" and then I cut and fit the other end to the particular vehicle and it's particular distributor cap or "distributor-less" ignition system. A V8 set lets me have two sets for the in-line 4.

I've also bought bulk sparkplug wire in the past and made up my own as well. If I'm looking for a particular look (RAJAH Clips or Champion boots or Bumble Bee wire), then that is what has to be done. Sometimes, you have a particular wire type that the ignition system maker says to avoid. Then it helps to look at the wires themselves. Not too many really knowledgeable parts purveyors anymore. Plenty of people that can drive a computer and find the part number the computer tells them is assigned to that car, but not too many that really know the parts themselves.

Not sure about the "Powertune" stuff.

HTH,
Mike Miller
 
No biggie, use needle nose pliers and uncrimp the end and reinstall it on the wire and recrimp. You'd have to do the same with a cut-to-fit set.

I have Accel solid coil wires on my car. You can get 4 sets out of them. The only thing I HATE about them is they make my inductive timing light go nuts. No radio noise to speak of, just the light picks up signal;s some times about three feet from the car. Still tiimes good, just the tach goes crazy.

I prefer straight boots at the plugs, that way you're 100% sure you're on the plug and not to the side of it. Another plus is you can slide the boot up till the tip is exposed, snap it on and slide the boot down as far or as little as you want. I set mine deep.

I hate sticky boots too, it happens. Consider moving the boots as oil change maint.
 
kellysguy said:
have Accel solid coil wires on my car. You can get 4 sets out of them. The only thing I HATE about them is they make my inductive timing light go nuts. No radio noise to speak of, just the light picks up signal;s some times about three feet from the car. Still tiimes good, just the tach goes crazy.
Click to expand...
I've got the same problems with mine (Accel solid core wires as well). I find that my older light seems to work better than my new one.
 
While we're on the subject, what about the other end - the distributor cap? Any thoughts on side entry vs. top? I had the side entry until I replaced the cap recently and went with a top plug in. Works the same, but the wires coming out are real close to the bodywork. The plug ins are alot more convenient than the side entry that you have to drive a screw into. Just wondered what you're using and pros and cons of each.
 
Resistor wires or plugs might help the timing-light problem. Triggering it from three feet away is really impressive. Electronic ignitions sometimes put out more than one pulse, and if the timing-light's sensor is fairly sensitive, it could bollix it up (sorry for the technical terminology) pretty well.

If you use a side-entry cap, I think you have to use 7mm wire (going from memory here; correct me if I have it wrong), which is somewhat less common. Also, you can't use resistor wire, as the screw in the cap that punctures the wire won't make a reliable connection.

I'd be careful about trying to modify resistor wire. It's hard to make a good connection to it. Solid core wire is easy, though.

I really doubt that there would be a problem with the Pertronix and solid-core wire. I can't think of a reason why that would be the case. Also, I have a Pertronix and solid wire in my Porsche, and it works fine.
 
Sarastro said:
I'd be careful about trying to modify resistor wire. It's hard to make a good connection to it. .
Click to expand...

Some come in kit form. It's the same as a factory wire that pulled out.

It doesn't alway trigger from three feet. I was impressed too.
 
Tell you what Mr. Jones. Several members have helped me out with free stuff when I needed it. In that spirit, if you'd like, I'll make you up a set of solid core wires and send them to you......BUT, your timing light may not like them.
 
Kellysguy,

That is a most generous offer. However, I couldn't possibly accept. I'll hang on to this BPNW set. Couldn't be bothered sending it back - do you ever get like that or is it just me?

I wonder if you could start a business though - I'm sure plenty of folk would buy some off you.

The solid core's ability to disrupt a radio is, to my mind, a positive selling point. I think rap music is absolutely fantastic but I'd rather not listen to it, if you don't mind.

Cheers!
 
bigjones said:
Kellysguy,

I wonder if you could start a business though - I'm sure plenty of folk would buy some off you.

Cheers!
Click to expand...

Na, too easy to do yourself. I have some left from the last Accel kit I bought; enough to do another car.
 
startech47 said:
NAPA has all the parts you need to make up a set of wires. They sell the solid core wire by the foot.
Click to expand...

That's good to know.
 
Packard 440 and Rajah clips. Classic
 
I have a modified set of Accel wires on the Mini (part of a Chevy V8 set). I never noticed any problems on my tack or timing light. In fact, I got a new Actron digital timing light with built in tachometer for father's day and the first place I tried it was on the Mini. No problems on that tach or the one I had been using for years before the new one.
 
Doug,

How do you like that Actron timing light?
Can you dial back the timing?
Is the tach feature accurate?
How long do you think it will last?

(too many questions, but Christmas is coming and that means prezzies!!)

Cheers!
 
FWIW.
Powertune used to be Champion's low priced bargain brand. I suppose it probably still is.
 
scoutll said:
FWIW.
Powertune used to be Champion's low priced bargain brand. I suppose it probably still is.
Click to expand...

I sold Chumpions for years and always told customers, "I wouldn't put Chumpions in my lwanmower".....and I don't.
 
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