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platinum or iridium plugs

pdplot

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Time to replace Champion N9Ys in my TR-6. Is it worthwhile to move up to platinujm or iridium plugs and if so, what make?

Paul
 
Listing to port

My TR-6 is listing to port (driver's side) about an inch. What's the problem and the easiest way to correct?

Paul
 
Re: Listing to port

Personally I'd stick with the regular Champions. For as often as we tinker with these cars, and the issues that commonly occur, there's no real benefit to plugs designed to last 100K miles
Those plugs are really more for computer controlled engines, where fouling is extremely uncommon.
(Let the differences of opinion begin!)
 
Re: Listing to port

pdplot said:
My TR-6 is listing to port (driver's side) about an inch. What's the problem and the easiest way to correct?

Paul

Ride with a heavier passenger??

The springs are probably shot on that side .Either buy new or switch sides and wait until they settle (just joking)
 
Re: Listing to port

DNK said:
pdplot said:
My TR-6 is listing to port (driver's side) about an inch. What's the problem and the easiest way to correct?

Paul

Ride with a heavier passenger??
Better yet, convert to RHD.

Also agree 100% with Banjo on plug issue. Tom
 
pdplot said:
Time to replace Champion N9Ys in my TR-6. Is it worthwhile to move up to platinujm or iridium plugs and if so, what make?

Paul

Chant with me!

Over Rated
Over Rated
Over Rated

:smile:

Basic NGK or Champions are just fine. I ran the Bosch Platinum's in the TR8. It didn't do a darn thing. Switched back to the NGK and it ran exactly the same.

as always....YMMV...
 
I ran the Bosch Platinum's for about 6 years. I never had problems with them functionally, but the negative electrode is HARD to adjust, as in very stiff, in comparison to conventional plugs.

I tend to go through at least a set of plugs a year because I like to check the mixture that way and after 5-6 times the washer's fully compressed. So I went to the less expensive NGK BP6EY. It's subjective, but I will swear the engine tone changed with the installation, and performance seems better overall.
 
Iridium plugs are often run in vintage british motorcycles because of their resistance to fouling; they feature a very thin and sharply pointed electrode. They are intended to run at their factory-set gap of 0.031", so a decent coil is required. All iridium plugs are resistive, 5 kilohms or so, so it's important to use them with non-resistive caps and wires. I've been using the NGK iridiums in all of my British iron, two- and four-wheel, for two years now. No fouling, no problems.
 
SkinnedKnuckles said:
I tend to go through at least a set of plugs a year because I like to check the mixture that way and after 5-6 times the washer's fully compressed.

Back in my "racing days" many years ago you could buy the washers separately and very cheap. We kept a tuna can (before ziplock of course) of them and changed them almost every time we pulled them plugs (almost constantly). The washer design called for only one compression and I'm not sure if that design was changed to accommodate the reality that changing washers rarely happened or that it simply didn't matter. I've never changed washers only since.
Tom
 
I had them in for two days in my TR6. Back to Champion stock plugs and all is well.

OVERRATED.....
 
I have the NGK iridium fine wire plugs in my 1974 '6 running with the stock gap and the Lucas Sport coil with an otherwise stock ignition system. I have the Sport Coil that retains the resistor wire.

I went with the fine wires because of my experience "back in the day" w/ motorcycles and I was chasing a very slight, intermittent stumble on acceleration. The fine electrode, theoretically at least, should require less voltage to fire and is less prone to fouling.

I am usually reluctant to try the latest and greatest and I keep this car as close to stock as possible, but these really aren't a "new" concept, except for the mass market availability. They are probably overkill but they did seem to help a bit w/ this niggling and intermittent stumble that I'm trying to diagnose and cure.

In short, do you need them? probably not. Will they hurt? no, benefit? maybe.

w
 
I replaced the Champion N9YCs with Bosch platinum plugs. Result? Starts instantly now from cold when it took nearly a minute of cranking with the Champs. They only had about 3,000 miles on them - mostly intown - and were gapped at .025. Who says new plugs don't make a difference?

Paul
 
I drove for years and years and never had a spark plug problem, I would replace them periodicall, probably partly in response to all the advertising back in the day about swapping plugs for better MPG, or starting or whatever. For the most part I never noticed any difference.

There have been a couple times in the last ten years or so that I have had a mis or a stumble and I have gone to a Bosch Platinum and it goes away.

But here is my half baked theory on plugs, they are all pretty good and reliable, if everything is up to snuff and tuned to spec on your motor they will all pretty much work fine with little to no perceptible difference.

But, and this is my unproven, probably half baked, theory if you have some sort of issues, such as fouling from too rich a mixture or oil, or maybe a weak spark because of some glitch in the ignition system, then the minor varioations in plug from design to design might help out.

I know the couple times I thought a different plug helped with fouling or a miss I was running a pretty tired motor.

If your motor, carburation and ignition are all in good shape I think any of the brands or types will do fine for many many miles and years.

Hardly irrefutable scientific evidence, your mileage may vary.
 
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