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Pitch on paint

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sp53

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Hi all I have a question about removing what looks like pitch from a fir tree on my hood. The spots are very small, but there are plenty of them. They are maybe the size of a small finishing nail head. The paint job was a bare metal restoration 10 years ago that I have kinda neglected for different reasons. Anyway the paint is oxidized in spots like the hood and boot, and I am afraid of using a power buffer because I do not want to do any more damage, so I would like to do it by hand. I tried some WD40 on the pitch and after time it did loosen it. The stuff is really stuck. Does anybody have an idea about perhaps some kinda solvent or whatever to get it off? I tried waxing with just Turtle wax and it help on the faded paint but not on the pitch.
Steve
 
I had a similar thing happen on my white BMW 2002. It was covered with sap and a black mildew after a year of neglect. I washed the car with some diluted Purple Power degreaser I bought at the auto parts store. It took off the mildew and the sap with very little effort. Didn't do any damage to the paint that I noticed either. Not that I cared too much, as the car was slated for a repaint anyway. Try it in a small area and see if it works. I use the PP as an engine degreaser and as a driveway cleaner and have never had a problem with it on painted surfaces.
 
I have always used mineral spirits on a clean cloth to gently wipe away sap. I believe you'll find the main ingredient in the Turtle Wax product mentioned above is also mineral spirits. Regardless, mineral spirits or the Turtle Wax product will remove sap with a bit of gentle rubbing.

If you want to keep going with your cleaning, I suggest following up with detail clay to remove all the bits you don't even see on the paint. After that the gentle use of a product like 3M glazing compound on a foam pad will do wonders to restore the shine without the excessive paint removal you can get with rubbing compound.
 
:iagree: Mineral spirits will do it. Soft cloth, dampened with it.
 
Finish it off with Mothers Clay Bar when done removing the sap. This product is FANTASTIC. Kept me from repainting the hood on my concours TR2.
 
*Sometimes* butter will work, I think that depends on the source tree.

I usually reach for the silicone spray lube though mineral spirits sound about right.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Finish it off with Mothers Clay Bar when done removing the sap. This product is FANTASTIC. Kept me from repainting the hood on my concours TR2.[/QUOTE]

But then you have to polish and wax the paint to seal it again, because the clay bar removes everything. And that is good!!

I like Mothers and they make very good products, but I bought the Griot random orbital and their polishes and wax and I'm hooked on them. Soooo much better than my old high speed buffer/polisher.

I've done both the TR6 and the TR8 over the past two weekends:
 

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hey, who's that stockingless guy with that s**t eating grin on his face??? :bow:
 
Well I would like to thank all of you very much, but I am kinda confused on what mineral spirits is. When I went to HD, they suggested that mineral spirits is paint thinner and that what I wanted was denatured alcohol. Sorry to be so confused, but I just have too much information. Where do I get this clay bar product and how hard is it to use. Thanks for the picture Brosky and where is a good place to get one of those buffers and are they benign to use.
Steve
 
Mineral Spirits is often used as paint thinner and it is available in the paint department of hardware stores. It is very, very, mild. Think of it as cleaner and better smelling than kerosene or diesel fuel. It is powerful on cleaning grease but will not harm automotive paint... unless you have a Rustoleum paint job. If you are still concerned, go to the auto parts store and buy the Turtle Wax bug and tar remover. You should also be able to find the detail clay at better auto parts stores. Most clays work better if the paint surface is mildly lubricated. I don't buy the official clay lube, I put a small amount of dishwashing detergent in a clean bucket of water and continually dip the clay in that to keep the paint surface lubed.
 
Ron, that's me, the fat guy hiding behind the apron, trying to keep polish off his BCF shirt. But it you do this right, per Griot's instructions, there is no mess, so it came off for the TR8 buffing.

Steve, they are VERY benign to use and come with complete instructions for newbies, as well as those old farts of us used to high speed buffers (better known as paint burners for good reason) wool bonnets and cutting compound. It's not done that way with these.

Griot's Garage Home page
 
Paul, we're used to seeing the TR6 all bright and shinny, but you've really done a number on the TR8. It reminds me of a candied apple.
Haven't seen a picture of you in a while, but you look a shadow of your former self...believe me I know how hard it is for us..rather mature (in age) individuals to loose a few pounds. It ain't easy.
 
Don't use the denatured alcohol it can damage the paint. Mineral spitits will work fine. I use Meguiars body solvent. If you have never used a clay bar it is also something you should try. Use plenty of detail spray so the clay does not stick. As mention you will need to rewax the car.
 
Don, actually it was 6" Orbital Kit this one and I've since bought the smaller buffer, which works great in the curves and on the bumpers.
 
Ken,

Thank you. I've dropped 30lbs so far. About 5 more to go.

Mickey did a good job maintaining the paint, but the Griot system really brings the color out.
 
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