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I'll suggest you romp over to the Spridget Forum and ask those guys. From my recollection the things shouldn't "fall out" unless they're really worn. The tabs keep 'em well located otherwise.
Some racers may "pin" them in, but it's best to instal by the book with requisite clearances, etc.
What you can do, though, is check the end play clearances regularly. Check the end play according to schedule and when they get out of spec, replace them.
They won't fall out unless they're badly worn. Just like everything else on these cars, just perform all your scheduled maintenence and the car will most probably run like new.
Some guys pin, some don't. Hap, our resident engine building genius says there is no need to pin if you train yourself not to sit on the clutch at stoplights.
I've been racing with un-pinned thrust washers in my 1500 Spridget for years with no problem.
Just change them every now and then.
In a street car, if you don't ride the clutch too much, they should last at least 5 years.
And changing them is pretty simple.
Since there are so many opinions on this, count me in the camp that like pinning them. Once I machine the cap to accept another set of washers. I like giving the thrust a full circle.
Made up a fixture to enable machining of the cap in a lathe. Using the same measurement (step width) taken from the block, the top and bottom match. Is it needed??? As others have said maintenance (checking end float) and or replacing them from time to time as well as correcting driving habits is as good as it really needs to get.
Dug
PM me for detail of this if you wish to.
If you go the route of machining a full circle than I would pin them. If your crank is not excessivly worn than get the tightest one you can in there and let it seat itself. I filed the back side of an oversize one til it just fit. I ignored the tolerances because as soon as it seats you get play again. They make solid bronze ones too. But I didnt find them to be so benificial either. basically you could pin a half washer by drilling three holes through the thrust washer into the cap and tapping the cap to accept a threaded screw. Ive seen guys use the solid bronze thrust washer and brass screw slightly recessed into the bearing surface. Others used literal pins pressed into the cap.
Iam starting with a new used block and a new crank and i will be taking both to machine shop sat to get cleaned and checked out and this is my wifes midget she wont be hard on it maybe i will just put it back together the stock way.what should the end play be for the crank?
If you machine it to accept a top bearing you cannot. The bottom one can easily be repalced in the car. I am not sure if you pin the bottom one if you can still replace it in the car as the main cap would have to come out to replace it.
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