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TR2/3/3A Pictures of a tr3 soft top install please

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H

hermanmaire

Jedi Hopeful
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I know, I know.... it should be pretty straight forward but I am having trouble and dont know if I am missing more pieces. I would post pictures of what I have done but my computer is giving me problems.

I just mounted my windshield and mounted the soft to the windshield top and it fits nice.... then I go pull the slack out of the top to mount it on the back and I am about 3-4 inches from even getting close. This is not a new top.

So my questions are-

1- Is there different soft top frames? - maybe I have the wrong one.
2- how does the soft mount in the rear? - the soft top I have has no clips on the back edge, just one near the door top.

3- is there any other trim other then the capping along the back edge?


Pictures of a properly installed soft top would really help me out, also, if you pictures of the soft top frame that would help to, as maybe I installed it wrong.

Any replies appreciated . Thanks in advance.
 
Mike, that's a new one on me, what is a Triumph World and how does one get it?

Thanks, Tinkerman
 
Something wrong with this picture, Herman. On a TR3, the rear edge of the soft top is located by a series of "lift the dot" snaps, that fit over studs installed in the rear cockpit rail. If you have a used top that does not have the snaps (or at least the holes where the snaps were installed), then I would suspect that you have a top from some other car.

As far as I know, all TR2-3 use the same hood sticks. There may have been some variation in the length of the webbing, though.

Also, the vinyl expands when it gets warm in the sun, so it is normally fitted pretty tight. One trick for dealing with this is to disconnect the rear-most bow from the webbing, and leave it folded against the next bow while installing the top. Then push the bow into place from inside the car; possibly pushing it farther as the top warms up. At least in my experience, it will stay in place from friction.
 
As Randall notes, you sound like some things are missing.

Also, be sure parts 1 & 2 in the above illustration are fitted the right way 'round or things will not go well.
 
I'm half way through installing my new top on the 3A right now. I've seen the dimensional drawings for the hood stick spacing for an Amco top and it is not the same spacing as my new top, also have one other measured drawing which is closer but still not exactly the right spacing.

So here's how I am going about it. This is a new top with no snaps installed.
After carefully measuring and marking the center line on the rear deck, top window frame and the corresponding center on the top, I mark these with a quilting pencil which leaves temporary white mark on the vinyl. So starting from these centers, I measured the two front posts and punched holes for the Tenax snaps, also the same for the rear LTD.

Next, I installed the top to the four installed snaps. Then diagonally measured and marked the next four, working from inside outwars towards the doors as I pulled the vinyl straight and tight. Repeat until you reach the outside edges.

All along I keep looking at the hoodsticks. The rear bow lines up pretty well with the seams in the top but not the middle stick. So I unscrewed the middle webbing, reinstalled the top, then adjusted the middle bow position and marked it with chalk.

As I continued, I continuously watch the tips of the top, at the edge of the windshield frame and also the front snap at the top of the b-post, to keep the top straight and not off-center to one side or the other. I used squeeze clamps to hold the windshield edges in place.

Now my top is draped squarely, centered, stretched appropriately and I have a handle on the top bow location in relation to the seams in the vinyl. So this afternoon I will open the garage door to get some heat on it and continue to pull the edges around the rear windows forward. Wish me luck.

Keep in mind the the post locations at the dogleg are diffrent on earlier car than on later cars. So using a used top need to be for the correct vintage.

hth,

-Pete

Something else I found is that the new Tenax snaps won't snap tight on the posts so I am having to remove the old snaps and reuse them in place of the new ones.
 
On mine, the rear capping wouldn't allow the snaps to go far enough down the shaft of the posts. I shimmed them out with 5mm flat washers, and it worked fine.
Emmett
 
PeterK said:
Keep in mind the the post locations at the dogleg are diffrent on earlier car than on later cars. So using a used top need to be for the correct vintage.
Click to expand...
In addition to the deliberate variations associated with changes in side curtains, there seems to be some difference just from car to car. Possibly the variation is just due to age, but I believe the factory workers originally drilled and installed the studs by hand, without being particularly careful to get the holes in exactly the same spots every time.

We had a speaker at a club meeting some years ago (sorry, I've fogotten his name) who talked about visiting the factory "back when". That was one of the sights he mentioned, a worker walking from car to car, poking holes with a drill motor without benefit of pattern or measurements or even a punch mark to keep the drill from wandering.
 
Once again, thank you for all the replys and help. I am quite sure the problem I am having is that the top has shrunk. I am going to try to get some pictures onto my computer and will post them .

I will take pictures of everything I have and maybe somebody will spot something I am missing.

Thanks again.
 
Fitting a top on a TR3 is an art. Mine is done now except for refitting the side curtains which is another PITA IMO. And I'm still not completely satisfied with the results. It should keep the sun off my wife and wind and weather out now. Even if I did it over again, I don't think it would be much better, just not one of those things I'm good at I guess. Sure looks better than the old one though.

Good luck with yours.

BTW - I am going to add the extra LTD post aft of the B-post as found on later cars. It gives a better place to snap the water flap that goes around the top of the "window" and still allows the doors to close with the side screens attached.
 
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