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TR6 Pics Link - TR6/M3 Progress

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milemarker60

milemarker60

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In response to those that have asked, below is a link to my photobucket albums showing the evolution and progress of my TR6/M3 Project. There are several different albums broken down by content. Hope this works, haven't tried linking this before.

BTW, still waiting on the dang tub from the painter. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

https://s115.photobucket.com/albums/n310/milemarker60/



Roller-1-Mitch.jpg
 
Dave, what are those wheels? They look awesome. Surely they are not on stock TR6 hubs?
 
WOW I try that and my wife would have my head in a bag on the curb for trash pickup. I always suspected that a good transplant would be a BMW in-line six. Can I be one of your other sons?
 
The wheels are BMW "Style 5" multi-piece BBS that came optionally on the 1998-2001 E39 5-series Sports. I had a company in CA take them apart, "fill and re-drill" the centers for the TR6 bolt circle, polish the rims and powder coat the centers. The TR6 emblems fit right inside the recess of the center caps.

They are 17x8 w/ 20mm offset which nets a backspace of 5.3". I had the shop make up a set of spacers front and rear thinking I was still going to need to maintain the 4" backspace but due to their larger diameter, I have no problems with the front clearances. I don't need them in the rear eaither due to the extra 5/8" disc brake bracket I've installed. So all I did was have a set of hubcentric rings made up to step the 74.1mm center-bores of the wheels down to the TR6 hub-snout.

I know many of the readers of this forum find my conversion a little on the sacrilege side of life so don't hit me too hard with putting these wheels on to boot.

I chose the Falken RT-615 (225/45/17)after much research as I did not want a true "R" compound tire, rather one suitable for an occassional autocross but mainly street use. I'm building this thing to terrorize my neighbors, not for racing.

Roller-RearDiscs-1.jpg


Roller-Engine-1t.jpg
 
That is absolutely terrific. I like what you're doing, and your work is outstanding. I'm at a loss for words....

That engine is a real tight fit!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif I'll just move some more sheet metal out of the way... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
 
Quite a bit has changed in design since some of the earlier pics. I'm acutally using the BMW E36 M3 Radiator. It mounts by pushing the bottom onto rubber isoloators which I mounted to the lower frame cross support that the sway bar attaches too. Up top, I fab'd a new aluminum duct that secures it as BMW designed as well. It does lay back at a slight angle but plenty of room. I also added an electric fan.

One of the neatest parts of the swap was that the steering shaft snakes right down and under the intake requiring no modifications. I really had my mind set that I did not want to add any crazy angles or u-joints in-line and definetly didn't want to move the rack as many have done while installing a V8.
 
The cv-axles are from the supplier that Alan Atkinson (alana) dug up down in FL. www.cvaxles.com I contacted Kevin, told him about my set-up and $1,500 later I had these show up on my door step. Absolutely wonderful product but I have yet to run them. Judging from fit and finish, they are going to suit my application well. The factory axles were of concern on my project and I researched the Corvair conversion and many other ideas but decided that the cv option would work best for me.

The rear disc brake brackets were courtesy of Mike Munson and Steve Pike down in GA. These guys are in the racing circuit hard-core and I had heard a rumor that they were commissioning a machine shop to make another run of these. Several TR's have used them over the years with great results. They were designed for off-the-shelf Wilwood dyna-lite style calipers so no difficulty finding parts. Slight plumbing modification and you are ready to go.

One draw back is the lack of a parking brake. Two options exist: brick or line-lock. I chose the line lock option and originally went down the road with a manual set-up like those found on aircraft. Being that I am in that business I scavenged a few parts but was not happy with the final function. I used the factory parking brake lever to actuate but I just wasn't happy with the end result. So now I have gone with an electric line-lock run to the front brake circuit with a button recessed into the gearshift handle. This also allowed me to remove the TR's parking brake lever and attachment to facilitate the installation of a functional center console between the seats. Doubt I will use the line-lock / parking brake very often but figured now's the time to install just in case I want to light of the tires while next to some Boyracer X's Civic.
 
This is awesome! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

The g/f's previous car was a '97 M3 so I am familiar with that wonderful engine.

It's kinda funny... I pass by a Lotus dealer everyday and on their lot is a somewhat clean '74 XKE roadster saddled a V12/Automatic... and as I passed it (for the 100th time, at least), I wondered about yanking the V12 and dropping in a nice S54/6spd.

Great minds think alike, eh? Although you are actually doing and I'm just dreaming. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
Dave - just curious, how much body trimming did you have to do to get that to fit?
 
Oh and one other thing - did you find a line lock that is rated for use as a h-brake (and if so what is it?), or are you using the regular a la jegs type?
 
Alan, I’m just using a regular old line-lock from Jegs. Not specifically rated as a parking brake as I doubt any truly are as they induce and maintain a certain level of pressure in the system. This in theory can cause a fluid leak down if there is any type of leak in the system. The mechanical ones used on aircraft are suitable for leaving "set" yet can cause the same issue. With that said, airplanes are rarely left on any substantial type of incline as our cars are. I figure the line-lock will get very little use and I still question even installing it. It would take a lot to get the car rolling while left in Reverse or First with the engine compression ratio and gearing.

As far as trimming, pic below. I did not have to do any trimming for the engine to fit if I had left it all stock. However, I decided to bolt on the Stainless Headers off the 96+ S52 M3 Engine as opposed to the '95 Cast Iron, which did require a little clearance. I decided cut the inner corner out from the Batt shelf to the foot well box as I could fabricate a nice filler panel. The fit was tight at that point for the cyl head but acceptable and now I have just a little more piece of mind. I don't have any pics of what I did to fill the hole but I took a piece of 3" exhaust pipe, sliced it open and welded it in place. Made for a pretty clean / almost factory appearance.

I also decided to modify the LH inner fender well to mirror the concave pressing found on the RH for the air cleaner. This gave me a great spot to snake the cold air intake down the side of the engine and through the radiator shroud to draw from in front of the radiator. So, both my inner fender wells now look about the same.

None of the trimming I did was absolutely necessary and I was originally dead set not to change anything that would be permanent. Well, once into the project I decided I'd never be going back stock ever so why not make it just how I want.

I made absolutely no/zero changes to the steering system, rack placement or column. I did not want any issues while driving in the twistys.


Firewall-EngineBay.jpg
 
Re the cv axles.
They got their first actual on-road test today I'm told. They handle anything my engine can put out just fine.

Just an fyi, mainly because no-one had actually driven them.
 
That thing is going to look really nice when its done. I love the fact that you didn't have to chop 1/2 the bulkhead away or fuss with the steering.
 
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