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pics inside engine

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tomshobby

tomshobby

Yoda
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Some of what we found inside. Cam damage seems possibly to be due to a poor break-in period. I had changed oil three times in the less than 2000 miles since I had the car. And it does not seem that maintenance was neglected since it is relatively clean inside. It seems more likely that the engine was not properly fitted at initial assembly. Especially in view of the maintenance records provided by the PO.

Been busy ordering parts today. We will put in new push rods after the head is shaved and reinstalled so we can take measurements to make the new ones. John is also going to cc the head so we get the compression right.

The crank should be back from grinding by the end of the week and depending on the arrival of parts later next week should find the engine at least close to being finished. The, the push rods being the last to finish since we want the rocker geometry to be correct.

I almost forgot, the body should be going in to have the engine bay painted on Thursday and might be back late next week or early the following.

piston skirt scored
before 03.jpg


broken ring
before 05.jpg


crank showing signs of scoring, probably from cam grindings
before 08.jpg


second lobe worn and pitting on edge
before 09.jpg


wear on cam, last lobe considerably worn
before 10.jpg


pitting on front lobe, dose not show real well in ohoto.
before 11.jpg
 
It is actually a coating of rust. I think this car has sat for some long periods of time. I have started it and warmed it up every 3 or 4 weeks through the winter since I have had it but can't undo some things.

I can guarantee it won't sit like that anymore.
 
When you put it back together:

Get some assembly lube from a parts store/high performance speed shop. Liberal smear on all cam contact surfaces,i.e lobes, lifters, bearings, etc. Liberal use on any and all bearing surfaces, mains, cams, rods, thrust..

Get some Motorcycle oil for at the least your first breakin run. Why the additives they've taken away from auto oil are still in motorcycle petroleum oil Grade SG, any later and the zinc diphosphate drops to next to nada.

When you go to fire it up, prelube it extensively. i.e. with the distributor removed and a rod in the oil pump, spin it over with a good size motor (1/2 drill) for at least 30 seconds. That will also give you a chance to detect any major leaks. Put the distributor back in, and crank it for another 15 seconds before connecting your coil wires.
Run it at fast idle(1800 to 2 grand) not chokes, but with throttle stop for the first 5 minutes.

Drain the oil after it cools down, pull the filter and if you feel forensic cut it open for inspection, if not replace it. Put good oil in and drive it.
 
I'm happy for you Tom. I've seen engines that looked a heck of a lot worse. Just get that block cooked out to get those cam lobes washed out of the oil galleys.
 
Ron, all that and the external oil feed line also!

Paul, I was just real lucky that I did not try and run it further. It will be going in the wash cabinet and all the lines will definitely be cleaned. Don't need any more of those score marks on the crank.
 
tomshobby said:
It is actually a coating of rust. I think this car has sat for some long periods of time. I have started it and warmed it up every 3 or 4 weeks through the winter since I have had it but can't undo some things.

I can guarantee it won't sit like that anymore.
Click to expand...
makes sense...
 
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