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Petronix Ignitor questions

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DerekJ

DerekJ

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Hi all,

I have a fairly high performance engine in my car which I use for hill climbs and sprints during which I am regularly at maximum revs. I've detected a hesitation through the range which I'm thinking might be due to ignition issues. I've resisted electronic ignition for 'originality' reasons but I think I should really convert in order to get the best out of my engine,

At present I don't want to go for the 123 or the Luminition, the latter because of the external pieces.

Petronix seems to be well thought of. (In the UK it's marketed as Aldon)

I have some questions and comments that I'd like some feedback on.

- I understand the original Petronix suffers from potential burn out if the ignition is inadvertently left on. Is this correct?

- the Petronix II cures that problem and has a variable dwell module that maximises the spark throughout the higher rev range.

- Aldon are telling me that I need their low resistance coil to work with the Ignitor II as that is what the dwell module requires. Is that true or are they just trying to get me to buy their full system? The coil and Ignitor II together are quite expensive over here. I have a perfectly good Lucas DB 105 Sport coil presently installed.

- They also tell me if the system fails then points could not be re-installed using their coil. (I suppose I could carry the 3 ohm coil as a spare for points only usage)

I guess the Ignitor II is the better option.

Any thoughts and comments welcomed. Anything I am missing?
 
I believe the first two points are correct; cannot confirm/deny the last two. Will say that the Pertronix support people--in the US at least--are very helpful and forthcoming. I'd be inclined to take them at their word (you could call their support line in the US to verify). If their coil is lower impedance, then it would likely burn up points pretty quickly.

Now, a question from me: last time I checked, the Pertronix II was not available for Healeys, at least not for the BJ8s (IIRC, it would not fit under a stock cap). Have you confirmed they are available for Big Healeys?
 
I use the older Pertronix as a direct replacement for points and condenser, and have never had a moment's trouble. I've read about the burning out issue, so if for any reason I need to have the ignition on without the car running, I pull the live terminal off the coil. My cars have Lucas Sports and Bosch coils, by the way.
 
I've just realised it's called Pertronix not Petronix, sorry about that.

Bob, I think you might be right. I've looked on Aldon's website and I can't see a reference for the Lucas 25D 6 cylinder distributor. I'll double check. I might just go with the normal Ignitor and see what happens. Has anybody any experience of a similar system called Powerspark. I see that being advertised in the UK.
 
I think the ignitor II has a rev limiter built in. Might be useful for you racers if they ever get one for the Healey. I always pull a wire off the coil if I have to leave the ignition on for a while. I have burned up a Pertronix not pulling the wire.
Jerry
 
I just contacted the people who sell Powerspark. They only have the basic Ignitor which they said, when asked, was made in the same factory as the Pertronix (and presumably the Aldon). They sell it for ÂŁ28.95, Aldon want ÂŁ79.95!!!!...and Aldon's price for the Ignitor II and low resistance coil is ÂŁ169!!!
 
The cost has always been a bummer in the UK why not get it from a US supplier ?? + no VAT-LOL
 
DerekJ said:
I just contacted the people who sell Powerspark. They only have the basic Ignitor which they said, when asked, was made in the same factory as the Pertronix (and presumably the Aldon). They sell it for ÂŁ28.95, Aldon want ÂŁ79.95!!!!...and Aldon's price for the Ignitor II and low resistance coil is ÂŁ169!!!
Click to expand...

I would be interested to see how you get on.

I too was looking into electronic ignition for my BJ8 and it seems most units are neg earth only. Was the power spark you looked at for ÂŁ28.95 for pos earth? Will it run with a standard coil?
 
Derek, might be worth giving Martin Jay ( Distributor Doctor ) a call as he sell and / or fits the pertronix modules.
 
DSC09394.jpg




Hello Derek -

I've used the Pertronix electronic ignition on my vintage racer for the last 6 years with success. I've upgraded to the Pertronix Ignitor II this year after my latest engine rebuild, both using a Lucas Sports coil with negative ground. My distributor is a custom race prepared Lucas Jaguar D type unit which is completely stock in appearance, but performs at a very high level.
 
Jeepster, My car is negative ground. The Ignitor works with a normal coil.

Dougie. Looks like you've proved what I thought. You don't need the low resistance Flamethrower coil. Is the Lucas Jag distributor different from the Lucas Healey version. In other words does the Ignitor II fit the Jag version but maybe not the Healey version?

In any case I've taken my first step to electronic ignition by ordering the Powerspark at what is an extremely reasonable price by UK standards. So nothing to lose, we'll see how it goes.
 
Derek -

The Ignitor II works fine under the re-curved Lucas DMBZ.6A distributor I have mated with Accel Spiral Core hi-temp 8MM plug wires and Lucas sport coil.
 
DerekJ said:
The marvel of the internet!

Ordered it yesterday at 2.30pm , it arrived today at 10.15am!
Click to expand...

Be good to hear how you get on with the installation and how it performs. I will probably follow your lead and try the powerspark but seems I need to pay an extra 20 quid for my pos earth version.
 
Ordered the powerspark ignition unit and hopefully it should be delivered today.

After the new unit is installed, will I need to adjust the ignition timing? If so why, what has changed?

I have a non adjustable timing light but the timing indicator on my Bj8 has no timing marks, just a pointer to show 0 degrees. How can I adjust the timing to the required advance without some form of timing marks on the crank pulley?
 
Jeepster said:
Ordered the powerspark ignition unit and hopefully it should be delivered today.

After the new unit is installed, will I need to adjust the ignition timing? If so why, what has changed?

I have a non adjustable timing light but the timing indicator on my Bj8 has no timing marks, just a pointer to show 0 degrees. How can I adjust the timing to the required advance without some form of timing marks on the crank pulley?
Click to expand...

I believe the timing changes because the electronic ignition triggering mechanism isn't necessarily located at the same position on the advance plate as points.

You either have to use the 'static' method of timing, or spring for an advance meter. I chose the latter; they aren't very expensive--less than $100 here in the colonies--and will pay for themselves with accuracy and convenience (you can check total advance, and verify your advance mechanism is working).
 
Jeepster said:
Ordered the powerspark ignition unit and hopefully it should be delivered today.

After the new unit is installed, will I need to adjust the ignition timing? If so why, what has changed?

I have a non adjustable timing light but the timing indicator on my Bj8 has no timing marks, just a pointer to show 0 degrees. How can I adjust the timing to the required advance without some form of timing marks on the crank pulley?
Click to expand...

If you wish to do dynamic timing and want to mark your pulley:
The pulley is 6.25" D. Therefore circumference is 19.625".
35 degrees = 35/360 of 19.625 = 1.91" (1-7/8"+)
32 degrees = 1-3/4"
15 degrees = 13/16"
5 degrees = 1/4"+
With the crank pulley TDC notch at the pointer and looking back from the front of the car, these positions would be to the right of the notch.
 
re: 35 degrees = 35/360 of 19.625 = 1.91" (1-7/8"+)

I'm at work and most my brainpower is on other topics, but I don't think this allows for cam rotation being half crank rotation; i.e. every degree of cam is two degrees of crank (advance is measured in cam degrees). At any rate, almost 2 inches seems like a lot for measuring advance at the crank pulley. I may be wrong here, but ...
 
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