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Petrol Stop Tap on post 60000 TR #

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Tinkerman

Tinkerman

Darth Vader
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The petrol stop tap, Stanpart # 104818 page 193 in the stanpart catalog, is a fuel shutoff valve, my question is was it used on all side screen cars? The reason for my question is that in the Moss catalog it shows the unit with the comment "TR2-3A as needed". I figure that I'm looking at a minium $41 potential leaker and if I don't need it because they discontinued the use of it at some time I would like to know.

With much Thanks, Tinkerman
 
Dick: If you have a copy of Bill Piggott's, "Original Triumph TR2/3/3A", PAGE 69,

<span style="font-style: italic">"Because the fuel tank was situated in an unusually high position, a brass fuel tap was incorporated into the fuel system, mounted on the chassis frame below the fuel pump. By closing this tap with a push and twist action, the tank could be isolated if the carburetors or fuel pump required dismantling. For some reason (probably cost), this useful though leak-prone item was deleted during the TR3A's production run, but it has not been possible to ascertain precisely when."</span>

So far between this forum and the UK-based TR-Register forum, I have identified a very original TR3A at TS43XXX with an original petrol tap. So, although not a certainty, it appears that this feature disappeared some time before TS50000.

BTW, we are adding a fuel shut off the the Grey Lady, in a convenient spot near the tank, and accessible from under the car.
 
My first TR 3A was supposed to be a '59 which I bought used in '61. It did not, as well as i can remember, have a shut off. However, the hood badge was red and black instead of blue and white. Wouldn't this indicate that it was a '58 or were they using badges like cut offs, until the box was empty?
 
Thats a good idea frank. I just might do the same. Thanks for the info. The judging standards suggest that they stopped using them during that period but not real sure when.

Thanks, Tinkerman
 
Frank- Still looking for a good shut off. What did yo use?
 
Just a thought; using a solenoid valve might make an effective theft deterrent. And it would let you hide the valve under the car, without having to crawl under to turn it off (say if you wanted to clean the sediment bowl on the side of the road).

I found a valve at a local surplus house for $5 (but that was a few years ago). Coil was marked 24v, but it worked OK on 12.
 
DNK said:
Randall,was it small?
Click to expand...
Not particularly. Maybe 3" x 3" x 4", don't recall for sure offhand.

Actually, something like this might work better, by just capping off the unused port. The one on my motorhome seemed pretty small (but perhaps that was just in relation to the size of the vehicle :g)

But at least on a TR3, there is a fair amount of unused space above the rear axle tubes. The body has to clear the pumpkin and extends at the same height out to the sides, but the tubes are much smaller than the pumpkin. I just never bothered installing the solenoid, after I figured out how to keep the original tap from leaking.
 
Tink, Don: haven't decided yet, but probably something like this.
 

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Randall- Could I piggy the wire from the fuel pump to or from it. Then Whne the valve is closed the pump can't operate?
Couldn't see a size on it.
 
Dave, good source. The seat idea location won't work on this car. The pump and fuel filter are in the boot and want to put it before,of course.
 
I assume that these solenoid valves would be connected so that they close with loss of 12 vdc. So, if you have a really flat battery, with enough to provide spark might not have sufficient voltage at the solenoid to open the valve??? Also, an electrical fault at the solenoid could cause the valve to close whilst driving at high speed - fun?

Maybe a bypass manual valve around the solenoid, normally closed?
 
Aloha Frank,

Your assumption is how I would do it. Wire it so it that has voltage when the ignition (key) is powered. A hidden switch in the circuit could be added to make it an anti-theft device for the car plus a fuel shut off. An electrical problem in the circuit would cause fuel starvation but electrical failures in the ignition circuit be a problem also. A weak battery in my MG that won't turn over the engine usually has enough power to run the electric fuel pump. I would think it could also open the small solenoid in the shut off.

If you want a simple fuel cut out, I think the valve mounted back by the tank outlet would be a lower cost option.
 
Hey all, what about my
DNK said:
Randall- Could I piggy the wire from the fuel pump to or from it. Then Whne the valve is closed the pump can't operate?
Couldn't see a size on it.
Click to expand...

Hey guys,what about my question
 
Aloha Don,

If you wire the electric fuel pump and solenoid shut off in series I beleive that would do what you want. Power would have to go through one to get to the other and on to ground. Power on valve opens and pump operates, power off valve closes and pump shuts off.
 
I use both the fuel pump and another switch that turns the main power off as my anti theft. Comes with the Power block
I think I might go that route then. when I change the filter the car is off so therefore the valve would be closed. Cool.
 
MGTF1250Dave said:
Aloha Don,

If you wire the electric fuel pump and solenoid shut off in series
Click to expand...
No, not in series. In parallel. Both get power from the same switch/relay/whatever, so the pump is only on when the valve is open. If you wire them in series then they divide up the voltage (so neither one gets the 12 volts it wants).

But unless you are using a high volume motor-driven pump that requires a bypass, it won't hurt the pump to work into (or from) a closed valve.
 
Aloha Randall,

Thanks for the save. Since we are are using DC a series circuit would result in only 6 VDC to each device and it would not have worked.
 
MGTF1250Dave said:
Aloha Randall,

Thanks for the save. Since we are are using DC a series circuit would result in only 6 VDC to each device and it would not have worked.
Click to expand...

Sorta. Only if their opposition to current flow is equal. If not, the unit that opposes more would have the bigger voltage drop across it, and the one that has less opposition would have less voltage across it. But the total voltage drop would equal 12.

But you're right, it wouldn't work!
 
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