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so,after getting the motor,trans and brake system redone i've been around the block a few times :~}...the car gets to hot to fast, so I ran some flush and got a bunch of crud out. I opened the drain on the block and nothing came out, so I pushed a 3/32 welding rod in and hit a wall! after twisting and turning i'm getting some stuff out but I think the previous owner put a BUNCH of stop leak crap in the motor...sorry the drag on but what can I use the clean the block out? CLR? syringe full of muriatic acid??? any info helps thanx!
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petcock drain
- Thread starter mtlman8
- Start date
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Keep prodding until you get the proverbial "copious flow" of water/coolant out that hole. That's why the block drain is where it is; all the crud and silt collects back there. You don't necessarily have to get every bit out, though. Once you get a really good flow out the block drain (same kind of flow as out of the radiator drain), you'll get much better coolant circulation through the block again!
TonyPanchot
Jedi Trainee
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What about a reverse flush ?
TexasKnucklehead
Jedi Knight
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I would not drill in there. You could hit the bottom of the piston liner -or the F08 gasket. Use a hanger or something like it and poke it around -mostly upwards because the hole in the block ends at the very bottom of the liner. Here are two pictures of the block with a cleaned out tap hole (from the inside and the outside), and piston liners removed. Before I cleaned it out, no light would shine through that hole.
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TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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The liner is pretty thick at that spot, and they are seriously hard ... I'd say the biggest danger of using a drill would be ruining the threads in the block.
Keep in mind that even if you drill through the crud and hit the liner, it may not open the blockage.
I'd keep on with the welding rod, but first smash the end of it with a BFH to form a crude spade drill. Then turn that back and forth to dig out the crud. Once you've gone in far enough to hit the liner, bend the tip a little so it will work upwards and keep at it until you strike water.
Or you can just bite the bullet, and pull the head & liners.
Keep in mind that even if you drill through the crud and hit the liner, it may not open the blockage.
I'd keep on with the welding rod, but first smash the end of it with a BFH to form a crude spade drill. Then turn that back and forth to dig out the crud. Once you've gone in far enough to hit the liner, bend the tip a little so it will work upwards and keep at it until you strike water.
Or you can just bite the bullet, and pull the head & liners.
MGTF1250Dave
Jedi Knight
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Aloha,
Poking and prodding with a stout wire should loosen up some sediment to start a flow out the petcock. If you can remove the petcock, it will be easier for the crud to flow out. If you suspect a lot of sediment in the block you may want to vigorously flush it with water pressure. I would recommend you remove the hoses between the radiator and engine, you don't want to move the sludge from the block to the radiator. I made a water jet nozzle that attaches to a hose from a brass "sweeper nozzle" and a piece of scrap 3/16" OD brake line. The brake line fit through the nozzle opening and is soldered in place. The water velocity breaks loose and stirs up the stuff in the block. The brake line is small enough to insert through the petcock. You can also use by removing the water outlet for the heater up on the rear of block. Flush until the water out of the block runs clear.
Poking and prodding with a stout wire should loosen up some sediment to start a flow out the petcock. If you can remove the petcock, it will be easier for the crud to flow out. If you suspect a lot of sediment in the block you may want to vigorously flush it with water pressure. I would recommend you remove the hoses between the radiator and engine, you don't want to move the sludge from the block to the radiator. I made a water jet nozzle that attaches to a hose from a brass "sweeper nozzle" and a piece of scrap 3/16" OD brake line. The brake line fit through the nozzle opening and is soldered in place. The water velocity breaks loose and stirs up the stuff in the block. The brake line is small enough to insert through the petcock. You can also use by removing the water outlet for the heater up on the rear of block. Flush until the water out of the block runs clear.
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PatGalvin
Jedi Warrior
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I spent about 15 minutes digging the crap out of my block through this hole. Finally broke free and cleared out. Was tight, but not like epoxy...
Not to hijack this thread, but my block petcock drain valve has handle broken off and is really tight (can't turn to open or close). Any experience repairing this valve? or alternative valves? Hate to spend a bunch of money on this. My car is not stock, by any means.
Pat
Not to hijack this thread, but my block petcock drain valve has handle broken off and is really tight (can't turn to open or close). Any experience repairing this valve? or alternative valves? Hate to spend a bunch of money on this. My car is not stock, by any means.
Pat
MGTF1250Dave
Jedi Knight
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Aloha Pat,
The handle is threaded into the top of the rotating portion of the valve. the rotating piece is tapered and held in place with a a cotter pin, washer under that, then a spring to pull the taper tight against the petcock body and last another washer with cut outs to limit rotation. If you remove the cotter pin it should all come apart. I would recommend you disassemble the petcock on the bench because of the size of these bits. The handle piece is a common thread size so a short machine screw can serve as a substitute. I use some copper anti-seize to lube the petcock.
The handle is threaded into the top of the rotating portion of the valve. the rotating piece is tapered and held in place with a a cotter pin, washer under that, then a spring to pull the taper tight against the petcock body and last another washer with cut outs to limit rotation. If you remove the cotter pin it should all come apart. I would recommend you disassemble the petcock on the bench because of the size of these bits. The handle piece is a common thread size so a short machine screw can serve as a substitute. I use some copper anti-seize to lube the petcock.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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There is also a commonly available radiator drain valve that will work. The threads are not an exact match (the common valve has tapered pipe threads), but it will seal fine with a bit of PTFE paste (and in fact, there is currently one on my radiator, installed by the radiator shop).
It <span style="font-weight: bold">should </span> be used fairly frequently, but of course they aren't always (hence the problem).
It <span style="font-weight: bold">should </span> be used fairly frequently, but of course they aren't always (hence the problem).