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Pertronix installation photo

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TR4

TR4

Jedi Knight
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I just installed the Pertronix Ignitor kit in my TR4 and am quite pleased with the performance. Pull out the old points, condensor and lead from the coil, then mount the base plate, Ignitor Module and hook the hot and ground wires to the coil. Set the timing and no more points to mess with. I love it. Attached photo to check out. I have since trimmed the wires after this photo was taken.

Phil
 

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What do you use in the 2 slots to keep it air tight? I have used a little piece of sponge rubber that was cut over sized but it disintegrates after a year or so.
 
You can tell by my photo that the previous owner used nothing but I have been using a small piece of rubber I cut from sheet stock. I have no idea where I got it from, something lying in my toolbox for years until I needed it now.
 
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What do you use in the 2 slots to keep it air tight?

[/ QUOTE ]
Actually, keeping the cap air tight might not be such a good idea. Quite a few newer cars use vented caps. A couple of factors to consider.

In the high energy ignition systems, Pertronix may be in this category, the spark action has a tendency to ionize the air inside the cap, and this makes it easier to cross-fire. Venting removes the ionized air and prevents crossfire. The foam rubber deteriorates because of the ozone trapped inside the cap.

Also, moisture which is always present to some extent in the crankcase tends to migrate into the distributor cap & reduce the insulation capabilities of the cap. Venting lets the internal moisture out. The only time a sealed cap would help is if the distributor was being flooded with water from outside.

The whole problem is made worse by the relatively small diameter & thus reduced insulation clearances of the old British design caps. For the same reason, wide plug gaps often help increase crossfire problems.
D
 
Yeah I go along with that Dave, they were not air tight to begin with. In the kit is a rubber plug that replaces the original nylon one and it works a treat.---Keoke
 
Now that is an interesting concept and would explain the deterioration of the foam. Some how, it just makes sense to "filter" the vent and at least have the vent situated so a splash of water would not intrude. Wider spark gaps on the plugs requires a higher voltage to make the jump and consequently it would make more ionization. I did not encounter any crossfire in the past when I used the car as a daily driver, but it has all ways been greatly over serviced. BTW, my kit for the TR6 did not include any plugs. I think I will go back to the foam rubber (not dense type) and replace it more often. Hopefully, that will allow enough ventilation and keep a splash of water out.
 
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