• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Pertronix back to points

drooartz

Moderator
Staff member
Gold
Country flag
Offline
<span style="font-style: italic">Yes, I'm the man of a million questions.
grin.gif
</span>

So the new B has a Pertronix that was installed by the previous owner. I'd like to go back to a points setup. Thoughts? I've never played with the Pertronix -- is it just the bits inside the distributor or is there more to it.

Also, it looks like the points and condenser are the same for the B and the Sprite (1275). Correct?
 
Drew, is the Pertronix working OK?
If it is ,leave it along until it acts up and have a set of points in the boot ready.

my 2¢
grin.gif
 
DNK said:
Drew, is the Pertronix working OK?
If it is ,leave it along until it acts up and have a set of points in the boot ready.

my 2¢
grin.gif

I agree completely. I have had Pertronix in the TR6 for nearly 10 years and in the MGB GT for 3 years and no issues, and especially, no maintenance.

If you install points you risk installing an inferior/defective set of points or condenser, and either are tough to diagnose. There are inferior parts out there!
 
My biggest concern right now is that if it does fail, I have *no* real idea on how to replace it with points. Never played with one.

Are there any pieces other than the bit that replaces the points plate and condenser inside the distributor?
 
Find a points dizzy on flea-bay or suchlike, have Jeff go thru that and toss it in th' boot with a 12V test light.

And do NO testing with voltage (ignition ON) applied to the Pertronix box without the engine running. If you do any diagnostics on the 'lectrical system etc. needing key on, disconnect that iggy system first.

...just a word in yer ear, kiddo. :wink:
 
DrEntropy said:
Find a points dizzy on flea-bay or suchlike, have Jeff go thru that and toss it in th' boot with a 12V test light.

And do NO testing with voltage (ignition ON) applied to the Pertronix box without the engine running. If you do any diagnostics on the 'lectrical system etc. needing key on, disconnect that iggy system first.

...just a word in yer ear, kiddo. :wink:

I will search out a points dizzy -- and I did read somewhere about issues with the Pertronix and the key on/car not running. I will *definitely* keep that in mind. I think I had some instructions in the documents the PO gave me, will have to look into exactly what I have.

Interesting learning about a new-to-me car. Tunebug's been easy as I've touched pretty much every system in that car myself.
 
I'm with you Drew, I prefer points as well. It's a rare day when a points setup fails suddenly and without warning. They normally give lots and lots of notice before they die, and at that point it's your own fault for not attending to them. If an EI unit goes out, it will typically do so instantly and there is nothing you can do but replace it. That said, there are plenty of happy EI users out there. I have one on my GTS, although it has failed once and when I finally get the time and motivation I plan to revert to points as well.

I believe all you will need is a plate, points and condenser. Been a while since I messed with a Pertronix though. My last one has been sitting in a cabinet for years!
 
Steve_S said:
I believe all you will need is a plate, points and condenser. Been a while since I messed with a Pertronix though. My last one has been sitting in a cabinet for years!

Yep - you can keep a plate with points and condenser in the glove box, preassembled and ready to pop in place of the Pertronix in the event of a failure. That's what I did with the TR3 when I had it.

Never needed it, but then I didn't drive it all that much.
 
And I ain't sayin' the magic 'lectric iggy thingie is necessarily bad. Just that if it konks out you are a man afoot. A points dizzy never stranded me or friends if the thing pooped out. Ten minute inconvenience if you recognize it.

Steve's right: it'll "talk" to ya before it fails. The Box-o-tricks usually just QUITS.

It's really a matter of cost/benefit ratio.
 
Like Mickey said all you will need is points and condenser. You can change it all out in 5/10 minutes. Pertronixs are not fool proof but normally last a lot longer than points. I keep a ziplock bag with points and condenser in my glovebox just in case.

Marv
 
My race car has had Pertronix for 7 years. No problems. I always carry a spare 25D to the track (with points) but I've needed it. By the way, I'm running solid core copper wires, which is supposed to be a no-no with Pertronix.

Also, I run my Pertronix through the ballast resistor all the time (even when starting). It works fine and may reduce electrical pulse loads on the unit (that's my theory, anyway).

When I first swapped it over, I noticed the race car idled and misfired (when cold) much less than with points. The spark seemed much hotter (jumped a longer gap). Everything else was the same (coil, cap, etc). Keep in mind that the racer has a hot cam and was set up rich.

My street MGB has points. I have no reason to change them right now, but I do like the concept of a hotter spark. I may swap over eventually.
 
Didn't I see somewhere in the BCF that the "hotness" of the spark is not from the inside of the dizzy but from the coil?
 
Where a set of points has a "ramp up/ramp down" trigger pulse, the electronic switch is more like a square wave... resulting in a well-defined discharge from the coil. 'course everything else in the system needs to be in good working order as well.

Points: "ssssssnnnaaappp!"

Triggered: "SNAP!"

...perceived as a "hotter" spark.
 
DrEntropy said:
...perceived as a "hotter" spark.

"Perception is reality." :wink:
 
Wazzat Huxley? :shocked:
 
There are doors...
 
DrEntropy said:
Where a set of points has a "ramp up/ramp down" trigger pulse, the electronic switch is more like a square wave... resulting in a well-defined discharge from the coil. 'course everything else in the system needs to be in good working order as well.

Points: "ssssssnnnaaappp!"

Triggered: "SNAP!"

...perceived as a "hotter" spark.

Exactly.

When I say "hotter", mean it can jump a measurably longer gap (with a little home-made, spark-checker tool I have).
 
Weren't tryin' to challenge your terminology, Nial. Just attempting to 'splain it. :wink:
 
Back
Top