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Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A PC-7 for steering wheel repair

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2long

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My TR steering wheel on the Doretti is pretty bad. Having reviewed previous threads on steering wheel restoration, it seems like PC-7 epoxy is a good bet for filling cracks in the TR steering wheel. Is it important to do multiple layers of build-up with the product, or is one big fill the way to go? If there is a crack/separation that goes all the way around the wheel, exposing the inner steel ring, can PC-7 still be used or should I epoxy something in there first to fill the space a bit? And finally, is it foolish to try doing this and then painting the wheel by masking the area, i.e. without removing the wheel? Any other tips?

Thanks!

Dan
 
Dan,
I've used JB weld with good results. Doesn't sand that good. I fill the crack and then put masking tape around it to hold in place until it drys.
Marv
 
I think you'll definitely want to remove the wheel from the vehicle. The critical part is getting the epoxy sanded back to shape, and it's hard enough to see that the shape is right without the car getting in your way! Painting would be tough, too.

I used JB Weld in multiple applications, and some strands of fiberglass cloth in the deeper/wider cracks. Where the steel was exposed, I removed as much rust as possible, then treated it with a phosphoric acid "prep and etch" type product. Whether all that was necessary or not, I don't know. But it still looks good 6 months later.
 
PC-7 supplied by Summit does an excellent job. Fill some, let dry, sand, fill some more, let dry, fill to as level as you can get and sand smooth when dry. Same as JB Weld, they make a plastic weld and is pretty much the same as PC-7.
 
Thanks for the tips! Can a black epoxy and a product like "back to black" be used to restore black pigment on the wheel rim without painting? My center horn push assembly is in nice condition with a good patina, and I don't know if a shiny black wheel will look right with the aged center. I could go whole hog and remove and repaint the whole thing, but I am trying to preserve some patina as a survivor type restoration/conservation.

Dan
 
Too soon to say how durable it will be, but I tried VHT black vinyl dye (happened to have some on hand). I'm quite pleased with the appearance, it doesn't look or feel like "paint" and yet covered the difference in materials very well. I wanted more of a matte finish, so I only finish sanded to 300 grit. Came out just the way I had hoped. Only downside I saw was that it tended to exaggerate any surface defects, like a few spots where I failed to fully finish sand away the marks from the file I used to initially shape the surface.
 
FWIW, Wheelskins will make a cover to your measurements, for about the same price. I have one on my TR3, not only to cover the slightly ugly steering wheel, but because I enjoy the look and feel of real leather. They used to advertise on eBay as well, with prices about 15% below their web site.

But it wasn't quite the look I wanted on the old farm tractor (which is the steering wheel I patched up).
IMG_6580_lighter.jpg~original
 
I have the adjustable wheel. Try finding one of those in good condition! I used a dremel to open each crack into a "V" shape, (not the inverted "V" suggested above), filled with epoxy and sanded. The process seemed similar to dentistry. I also had to cut away and rebuild much of the three points where the steel rods meet the wheel. With the wheel back in shape, I primed, painted, and added a clearcoat. It took a while, especially getting the sanding right, but came out quite well. I watched several youtube tutorials first that were very helpful. As I live near Berkeley, California, (home of WheelSkins), I brought the finished wheel there prior to mounting. They fit a high quality leather cover to it. Great people, easy to work with, and a great product for a very reasonable price. The cover takes a little time to install, but I went slowly, double checked after each stitch, and it came out looking quite professional, IMHO.

Billi
 
Having restored many Tr/Healey/ ect steering wheels.I have settled on an SEM product called "problem plastic"
otc at an autobody supply outlet.Does need a special gun, but can be forced out and hand mixed.....
Large cracks should be ground out and filled with glass fiber mixed with this special epoxy.It sets up VERY fast
so do one crack at a time.Sands well and a second coat finishes up. NEVER used any single stage paint/dye /rattle can
on a steering wheel, You will be doing it again very soon as the oils from your skin destroy Non clear coated finishes.
Treat it like the rest of the exterior and apply a high quality UV resistant clear coat........
MD
 
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