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PBBlaster

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Okay, got the info on the Aircraft Stripper....this stuff says water soluble, so who knows.
We will start on the top on both the Jag and the 49 Willys, to see how it works.

Now, I have never, ever used PBBlaster before, probably because it wasn't around when I did the last couple of restos.
It says to leave it on metal surfaces.
Fine, but can you apply undecoat (ruberized) over it when it is no longer "wet"?

Or wipe it down first.

PBBlaster did NOT work as I thought it would reading these august forums.

Had to go retrieve my oxy-acetylene rig late last night, and 4 days of soaking, pounding, trying didn't get what 15 minutes with the torch did.
Granted, it was 8 bolts, 5 of which I did get out manually, but those three have not moved in over 60 years.

Had to get the hinge bolts out of the door, as the pin can only be changed with the door off (hinge can stay on the body).

But, it's done, now to order pins, pull the door, fix it and apply some rubber to the window mechanism that seems to want to bang on the insdie of the door when the window is up.

Dave
 
Dave!! Have you NOT seen the various "Weasel Pee" posts here of late?

A suspension of ATF and acetone is the BEST penetrating concoction, bar none. Shake and apply, let sit, repeat... it WORKS!
 
Last thing I wanted was acetone running out the door, and across the rocker panel.......

Fire Wrench usually works for me, especially when you can GET to the backside.
 
ahh. Got it. Thought you were doin' a full tear-down.
 
Nope.
1950 Ford Tudor, been mine for over 40 years, door hinge pins worn, and there is NO adjustment on these old doors.
Had to get the screws out of the door, one at a time, tap and die, anti-seize, back in, now I order pins, then tie the door up to the rafters with motorcycle tie downs, pull it, change the pins, re-install it.

Did shim the heel of the top hinge with brass shimstock as a test, door closes smoothly now.

Still, can you put anything over PBBlaster, or do you have to clean it all off for rubberized undercoat?
Dave
 
I'd err on th' side of prudence and try to clean as much of it off as possible with thinner and wipes locally... It ~is~ a petro-chem compound so some residual may not be horribly adverse to the undercoat but why take the chance. I'm fairly sure there's no silicone in it so the "carrier" in the undercoat will likely dilute it and bond.
 
Spray the area off with some brake parts cleaner, wipe it down, then apply the undercoat. That'll do the trick.
 
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