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Patching the front fender, I have made front fender patches that came out nice, but I have never used the 12inch high patches for the whole bottom. I was going to go that route with this project, but I heard from a body guy they never fit correct, so I just do not know. On this project however, I might try another way if there is another way. I have seen videos where metal is sprayed onto thin metal to give the old metal some buildup of material, so I want to try something like that, but with fiberglass or something. I am looking at these 2 front fenders that are thin, but all there. The bottom right angle piece is there and intact. Is there some way to beef up the wakened metal, and not cut it out? I was thinking if I glass bead the area on both sides that something should stick to back side and work. Maybe 4 coats of that epoxy then a thin layer of body putty or something?????
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TR2/3/3A Patching the front fender
- Thread starter sp53
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martx-5
Yoda
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I used fender patches from Moss, but didn't use the whole section. The repair patches are flat the whole way up and the fender (wing) isn't. The bottom section of the wing is pretty flat, so I just used enough of the patch panel to repair the rusted bottom of the wing. I re-flanged the panel using one of those cheap pneumatic flangers from Harbor Freight. It worked very well. I spot welded along the flange, then seam welded it and finally leaded the seam over. It turned out fine. I was going to butt weld the sections together, but decided to go the flange route, as it I thought would probably yield a panel that wouldn't get so messed up from too much heat.
I used the flanging tool for several other panels that I had to make.
https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=pneumatic+flange+tool
I used the flanging tool for several other panels that I had to make.
https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=pneumatic+flange+tool
Thanks art. I guess where I am stuck is I can buy a couple of fenders that are nicer than the ones I have and they might or might not need a patch depending on my pursuit of perfection. I think it was Maddog that said always buy a good body you can get the other stuff. I could have bought this really nice body and whole project, but the guy wanted 5,400.00 the fenders were very solid and been off the car since 78, but money,money,money, but again like suggest. I am spending a lot making chicken soup out of chicken droppings.
Peace out
Peace out
PatGalvin
Jedi Warrior
Offline
I used some scrap sheet steel and the HF pneumatic flange and punch tool. Worked great. But installing a patch panel on a large relatively flat surface is not that easy. You fit the panel, punch it, plug weld the flange, and then seam weld it. The heat of the seam weld causes the metal to shrink along the seam, which will "oil can" your fender and create some new metal work challenges. The real pros will butt weld the panels. Then, they can clean up the welded area with a grinder and use a hammer/dolly to stretch the welded seam, removing the shrinkage that is unavoidable with the seam weld. You can't easily clean up a lap weld (flange) with a grinder and hammer/dolly the double thick welded seam. You'd have to hit it long and hard to stretch that area. I can write a personal testimonial on this subject.
Having said all that, if you have a decent amount of metal remaining, you might consider removing all rust (bead blast, sand blast) and then using one of the very cool fiberglass filler products available to fill the front and back. For strength, you could add extra fiberglass filler on the back, out of view. The fiberglass fillers are moisture resistant and are applied to bare metal. They have short strand and long strand fibers, depending on which can you buy - probably short strand is fine for this repair. Then, you could grind smooth and apply your epoxy on inside. On outside, you can apply regular filler over the fiberglass filler. The fiberglass filler isn't intended to be a complete finished surface, like your standard body filler. It is more structural and won't suck up moisture, otherwise causing the filler to pop off the rusted metal beneath. This stuff is hard as nails and will last a very long time. After "doing it right" on my TR3, I would consider doing it a little differently on my next resto.
My sand blaster in Sacramento has the metal replacement technology where they spray metal on an area and do a metal build up. Then grind smooth. Is a pretty cool technology but I'd only use that on an area where I needed to have a finished front and back. That treatment isn't cheap and probably isn't necessary for our TR3 fenders.
Here is a photo of a flanged patch panel with MIG seam weld and significant shrinkage on the seam. All the spots are where I shrunk the metal to remove the oil can problem. (think of the bottom of an old style oil can, where the bottom will push in and then pop back out). This worked out well - I used a stud welder to shrink the panel.
Pat
Having said all that, if you have a decent amount of metal remaining, you might consider removing all rust (bead blast, sand blast) and then using one of the very cool fiberglass filler products available to fill the front and back. For strength, you could add extra fiberglass filler on the back, out of view. The fiberglass fillers are moisture resistant and are applied to bare metal. They have short strand and long strand fibers, depending on which can you buy - probably short strand is fine for this repair. Then, you could grind smooth and apply your epoxy on inside. On outside, you can apply regular filler over the fiberglass filler. The fiberglass filler isn't intended to be a complete finished surface, like your standard body filler. It is more structural and won't suck up moisture, otherwise causing the filler to pop off the rusted metal beneath. This stuff is hard as nails and will last a very long time. After "doing it right" on my TR3, I would consider doing it a little differently on my next resto.
My sand blaster in Sacramento has the metal replacement technology where they spray metal on an area and do a metal build up. Then grind smooth. Is a pretty cool technology but I'd only use that on an area where I needed to have a finished front and back. That treatment isn't cheap and probably isn't necessary for our TR3 fenders.
Here is a photo of a flanged patch panel with MIG seam weld and significant shrinkage on the seam. All the spots are where I shrunk the metal to remove the oil can problem. (think of the bottom of an old style oil can, where the bottom will push in and then pop back out). This worked out well - I used a stud welder to shrink the panel.
Pat
“the very cool fiberglass filler products available to fill the front and back. For strength, you could add extra fiberglass filler on the back, out of view. The fiberglass fillers are moisture resistant and are applied to bare metal. They have short strand and long strand fibers, depending on which can you buy - probably short strand is fine for this repair. “
That is what I was thinking of Pat something along those lines. I will do some research and find out what is available around my area. Yeh I only saw a video of those guys spraying metal and that got me thinking perhaps something is available through the plastic putty world. I bought those 2 different fenders for 100.00each plus a really nice heater complete with the side rails. The guy pulled the heater out that way. Never thought of removing one that way, but it keeps everything together, and plus old Lucus racing coil. The fenders are old, pitted rough and kinda straight, but no big holes plus front fenders are getting hard to come by around here.
If that does not work out, I can go with the patch panels and try my hand at making that welded connection all the way across the fender. To me that looks pretty challenging. Art pulled it off and his cars looks great. I think I am mostly intimidated by the butt joint in the wheel arch were the tin rolls around the wire, but all the Butt joints look difficult. Metal is so much different that wood. I have seen in the shipyards where they just cut a hole in a metal ship and then weld the metal patch back, and put it out to sea. With wood, most every is lapped and cantilevered and butt joints are rarely use.
That is what I was thinking of Pat something along those lines. I will do some research and find out what is available around my area. Yeh I only saw a video of those guys spraying metal and that got me thinking perhaps something is available through the plastic putty world. I bought those 2 different fenders for 100.00each plus a really nice heater complete with the side rails. The guy pulled the heater out that way. Never thought of removing one that way, but it keeps everything together, and plus old Lucus racing coil. The fenders are old, pitted rough and kinda straight, but no big holes plus front fenders are getting hard to come by around here.
If that does not work out, I can go with the patch panels and try my hand at making that welded connection all the way across the fender. To me that looks pretty challenging. Art pulled it off and his cars looks great. I think I am mostly intimidated by the butt joint in the wheel arch were the tin rolls around the wire, but all the Butt joints look difficult. Metal is so much different that wood. I have seen in the shipyards where they just cut a hole in a metal ship and then weld the metal patch back, and put it out to sea. With wood, most every is lapped and cantilevered and butt joints are rarely use.
PatGalvin
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Check out the Evercoat products - you can buy them in many places - on line and at automotive paint stores. Autobodytoolmart.com is very good. Autobodystore.com is a great store. TCPGlobal.com is fine too. Can also buy from Eastwood.
a quart with hardener is just $22 plus shipping. https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/ev...RRJSxDvYV0NIzXdrMk6IKyIcI1-7rRFYMMaAtVK8P8HAQ
This stuff is super durable, moisture resistant, and tough as nails. You catalyze it, spread it on exposed steel, and let it harden. Then shape with a rough die grinder (maybe 40 or 80 grit). That provides great grip on steel and moisture resistance. then, spread your filler which is easier to sand, work, and smooth until your panel is ready for primer. I highly recommend it. I used this stuff on my door skin bottoms, where I flange welded patches and then had some low spots. I wanted the repair to be bullet proof and not worry about cracked or popped filler on my door skins. Also used it on quarter panels to shape the contour behind the door, meeting the wing. I had to fab the steel for those repairs and it is a difficult compound curve. So, a little FG filler helped fill and make the contour perfect up against the wing and the door. It came out really well (OK, pretty darn flawless) and I am sold on the FG filler for certain repairs.
The purists will scoff at me for not metalworking these areas to perfection. I did a bit of that in places too. But this stuff will outlast me for sure, so I haven't a care.
pat
a quart with hardener is just $22 plus shipping. https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/ev...RRJSxDvYV0NIzXdrMk6IKyIcI1-7rRFYMMaAtVK8P8HAQ
This stuff is super durable, moisture resistant, and tough as nails. You catalyze it, spread it on exposed steel, and let it harden. Then shape with a rough die grinder (maybe 40 or 80 grit). That provides great grip on steel and moisture resistance. then, spread your filler which is easier to sand, work, and smooth until your panel is ready for primer. I highly recommend it. I used this stuff on my door skin bottoms, where I flange welded patches and then had some low spots. I wanted the repair to be bullet proof and not worry about cracked or popped filler on my door skins. Also used it on quarter panels to shape the contour behind the door, meeting the wing. I had to fab the steel for those repairs and it is a difficult compound curve. So, a little FG filler helped fill and make the contour perfect up against the wing and the door. It came out really well (OK, pretty darn flawless) and I am sold on the FG filler for certain repairs.
The purists will scoff at me for not metalworking these areas to perfection. I did a bit of that in places too. But this stuff will outlast me for sure, so I haven't a care.
pat
doc50
Jedi Trainee
Offline
Someone mentioned 'oilcanning'. I had that problem too, so I made a vertical brace that is formed then spot-welded in. Spot welding patches is also the best way to keep oil-canning to a minimum. I forget what it's called (...stitch welding?), but I welded the sheet metal by spot welding the patches for about 1/2 second each pass, spacing the welds until the seam is essentially one welded line. I wanted to be able to place a magnet anywhere on the car so I didn't go the bondo or lead route....but it took a lot more time! I'll try to add a couple shots of the braces.
Thom
1959 TR3
TS34909L(O)
Thom
1959 TR3
TS34909L(O)