Panels back from painting.

[Simon TR4a]

I have just picked up my bonnet, boot, both doors, door hinges, windshield frame and all four fenders.

The painter used "Standox" paint from Dupont, made by a subsidiary company, Herberts GmBh in Germany, and commonly used as original factory paint on many German cars, so I hope pretty good paint. Anyway, it's what he's used to!

I am very pleased, the shine is incredible, (perhaps too shiny!) as it is a base/clear job, and after I put the car back together which will likely cause a few minor scratches no matter how careful I am, he will wet sand for the final finish. This will also deal with a few tiny dust specks here and there.

The main tub still has to be sandblasted; the outer panels were chemically stripped by hand, but this is subcontracted and the guy does it outside, so we are witing for warmer weather. (It is about 10 degrees C below zero today; come on Spring!)
I am now going to polish the strips of beading and brightwork on the buffing wheel ready to reinstall. Has anyone anu advice on how to rivet the flash back onto the doors?
Thanks, Simon.

 

[tdskip]

Wow! Great progress Simon. Any pictures?

 

[bobh]

Simon,
Are they going to use sand as the blast media? Sand is very aggressive, it can warp the steel or just plain eat it if not done correctly. There are options that are less aggressive and less prone to cause damage. Plastic media, crushed walnut shells, and sode are all easier on the metal. I evaluated several types of media for blasting some aerospace structures. Glass beads warped .125 thick 6061 aluminum very quickly. I found that one of the medium aggressive plastics was best.
Make sure the person doing the blasting is experienced with this type of job and selects the appropriate media.
BOBH

 

[PeterK]

Since he used German paint, I assume that it is a water based paint as used (by law I think) on all Audi, VW, Porsche, MB, etc. new car finishes. So be especially careful when asembling as it can be a bit softer than petroleum paints when fresh. Good thing is that it won't need to outgas and can be waxed almost immediately.

A good trick to preserve the edges is to use a 3M masking tape around the edges as you assemble. The better (more $) tapes can be left on longer without damage to the finish.

 

[Simon TR4a]

Thanks for the advice, guys.
Skip, I forgot to take my camera to the shop but will take some at home and try to post.
Bob, I believe it is actually going to be soda blasted, or at least a very light sand with less abrasive properties, (rounder?), and I think the pressure can be adjusted to reduce the risk of panel warp. Because the outside panels are large and fairly flat they were chemically stripped, but other than the floors, which are ribbed, the tub has small panels so unlikely to warp.
Peter, I hadn't thought of that. The pieces I have back have a faint and unusual, though quite pleasant, smell. I had assumed the paint was catalyst hardened, with low volatile organic compounds, I will ask him.
I have already bought some "7 day" tape to protect the edges, but thanks for the reminder.
I also have to put back all the T-R-I-U-M-P-H letters and other badges, I think I need some little rubber cups that fit on the end of the pins.
A busy weekend ahead!
Simon.

 

[Simon TR4a]

[image]https://[/image] <font color="white"> </font>

 

[PC]

Your fresh paint will outgas and should not be waxed or have any polish applied that isn’t intended for fresh respray paint. (Not that you have any reason to anyway since your painter will be doing the sand, cut and buff later.)

As a rule you want to know the specific paint type used (the topcoat in particular) and follow the manufacturer’s recommendations on how long to wait (typically several weeks). If you don’t have that info ask your painter for the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Knowing it was painted with Standox is like knowing a car is a Ford. There’s some info there but you still don’t know if it’s a Pinto or a GT-40. Standox has about a dozen different topcoats available in the US.

Auto makers may use the same brand of paint but they won’t use the same paint. Factories implement processes that are very different from what’s possible in a body shop and paint manufacturers will custom tailor formulas for them.

Using tape to protect the finish while you work is an excellent idea. Be sure to use painter’s tape, not ordinary tape. You don’t want to be pulling off any of your brand new finish or having to remove belligerent residue.


PC.